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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello,

I'm going to change my plugs and wanted to know if anyone has the torque specs for the bolds on the Air Intake Manifold? Any pointers or steps would be helpful on changing out the spark plugs.

I'm going to replace the plugs with MotorCraft, sounds like that probably the best plugs to use from the treads posted. I'm also going to change out the plug wires. Any suggestions on the plug wires?

Appreciate your help.

Regards
 

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On my 2000 duratec, I only had to remove the plastic cowl at the base of the windshield to reach the rear plugs. Get a wobble 8-12" extension to ease removal and rinstall of plugs, use a 1/4" rubber fuel line hose to start threading in the new plugs, use antisieze, use a torque wrench for the plugs final seating of the plugs.
Sorry, no thoughts on wires.
 

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Motorcraft makes a very good quality plug wire & they'll be the right length, resistance, capacitance, as will the Motorcraft plugs you chose & they will keep our ignition system within design parameter tune!!!!

Break the old spark plugs loose about 1/4 turn, then blow the plug well out with air, (I use a tire pump with the end cut off of a sports needle, as a nozzle, but you could use some tubing to blow through), to remove any loose debris, so it doesn't fall into the plug well or cylinder, when the old spark plug is removed.

Be sure to check the new plugs spark gap. Use a wire gauge type spark gap tool. Don't prize on the fine wire iridium enhanced center electrode, as it's hard, but brittle.
Don't try to pull/force the wire gauge through the gap if it's really tight, as this could damage the center electrode, or ground side wires platinum pad.
Go slow & ease up on the spark gap.

I choose to set all of my plug gaps to the min side of spec, as the gap is always widening, so the gap will stay in spec longer if we set it to the min side of spec to begin with.
It'll also help some on those really cold sub zero winter starts, by giving a good easy to fire hot spark, when battery voltage is at it's minimum & the ignition system is having to work it's hardest to make a good hot spark to get us going.

Use a good quality, high temp, nickel loaded anti-seize compound on the new plugs threads, as has been suggested & be careful not to get any on the inside plug insulator or electrodes. or outside ceramic insulator. Don't get crazy & apply gobs of it to the threads, a thin coat is plenty.

Torque the plugs to the min side of spec, to allow for the antiseize compound lube effect, so you don't over torque the plugs.

You might consider buttering on a thin film of good quality dielectric grease, like GE or DowCorning, onto the spark plugs external ceramic insulator & inside boh ends of the plug wire boots, before installation, to help prevent flashover on those wet dewey morning starts, or rainy days.
It'll also help prevent the plug boots from sticking to the spark plug insilator & thus make removal later easirer.

Be sure to route the new plug wires exactly as the factory had them & use all of the factory wire looms.

if your unsure about plug wire routing, or location, do one at a time, so you don't get mixed up.
Or maybe use your digitial camera, sometimes a picture is worth a thousand words!!!

A bunch more thoughts for consideration, let us know how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Hello Piper Ronnie and Pawpaw,

Thanks for the infromation. I know it will come handy. I haven't had time yet to change the plugs. I'll let you know how it goes. I did call the Ford garage and they
said they remove the air intake to get to them.

Thanks

Note below:

I found the link to removing the Intake Manifold. The one on the site is broken. Note the link below. It was mentioned I place link in a forum so someone could repair it.

The correct link is:
http://www.ford-taurus.org/taurusinf...3_dohc_uim.pdf
 

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:)Rear spark plug removal maybe relatively easy on a 2000 because they don't have the fat coil pack of a 2001 back there. 2000 has coil on plug but onwards they have fat coil pack back there that is in the way of the access to the spark plugs. For a 2001 it's a PITA and it's best to remove the UIM to access the rear bank. It's more work but no other way out. I'm sure some heros can do it but you are running risks if you break anything. MWT will probably chime in here and call me a chicken--Ha Ha
 

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+1 on Motorcraft plug wires and plugs. Rockauto has both for 1/2 to 1/3 the price of the Ford steeler.
 
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