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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

I am new to the forum and purchased a used 2000 taurus se with 73K about 2 weeks ago. The car is in great shape but has a horrible idle and is way underpowered. The car won't idle well and has no power on takeoff from a stop. I was told by the prior owner that the upper manifold gaskets were replaced along with the thermostat gasket. So I pulled the codes and got quite a few. I have a P0306, P0171, P0174, P0305, P0301, and P1154. :huh:

I changed the bank 2, # 1, o2 sensor, no change. I changed the coil pack, no change. Was told to check the fuel injector/s but I think it may be a vaccumn leak due to the lean bank 1 and 2 reading. I can pull off the power to the #5/6 injectors with no change but when I pull the power to the #4 injector the car immediately stops idling and will stall. The scanner says I have 40# PSI with the fuel pressure.

I am planning on using the car for a daily driver but need any and all help with fixing the problem. Has anyone ever had this problem? Any help or assistance would be great for a newbie taurus owner!! I did buy a manifold gasket set just in case! Thanks!
 

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It seems odd that one cylinder bank is lean and one is rich.

Are cylinders 1 and 5 on bank 2? Being as that bank is too rich, it may explain the misfire for those cylinders.

Just thinking out loud.
 

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You have a bad vacuum leak. Maybe the intake gaskets were incorrectly installed, or a vac hose was damaged / left disconnected after the repair.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Yeah, that's what I thought about the vac. leak. It seems the person who did the intake job may have messsed up the gaskets? Bank 2 is the front bank with cyl. 4,5,6.

I was going to do the carb cleaner trick and spray around the upper intake with the car running to see if I can pinpoint where the leak is and go from there. Is there any suggestions on where else to look? I keep reading about the PCV valve and the elbow on it and the plastic tube that runs under the upper manifold as being a main culprit a lot of times. I did see two hoses that were behind the top of the plentum that looked like they were some type of vaccumn hose/s because when I disconnected 1 of them, I heard the air moving from the hose connection. The hose did have a slice on the end of it where it looks like someone put a slit in it to get it to fit over the metal nipple? But when I pulled the hose off, there was no change in the idle and I couldn't get to the one under it, which was a tad bit bigger in diamater.

I pulled the plugs last night also, and they were autolite platinum and looked like the ones on cyl. 1,5,6 were carbon fouled. Dry carbon type soot on them. I read this can be caused by bad fuel inj. or stuck valve? Does this happen a lot on the 3.0 motor? Just trying to see what else I may have to look at in the long run if the vac. leak isn't the problem. :bandaged:

Oh yeah, thanks for the replies!! It helps to talk with someone who has had the same problem that I am working with!!
 

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Greentaurus, po171 & 174 are both lean codes indicating vacuum leak(s). Po301, 305 and 306 are misfire codes for cyls. 1, 5 and 6. Po1154 is indicating rear main o2 sensor signal faulty. Po172 & 175 are rich codes.
 

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Thanks for the clarification, Sheila! :D

I was referencing the list of problem codes in this forum. One of them mentioned a rich fuel mixture or something to that effect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok,

I wanted to see if the injectors may be the problem and I pulled the 4,5,6 injectors and saw that 4 and 6 looked like they were working Ok, and then #5 looked like it had crud on the bottom and like it wasn't spraying, but the injector spray holes were clear. I switched the 4 and 5 injectors, since I could pull the power to the injector on # 5 with no change in idle and if I pull the power to #4, the motor will stall. Well, with the # 5 injector in the old #4 spot, the car ran a tad better so I decided to check the power connection on the injector. I pulled the # 5 cyl injector power cord (old # 4 injector that worked) and no change in the motor, but when I pulled the power to teh #4 cyl injector (prior #5 injector) the motor stalled again.

This is making me wonder if I am getting power to my #5 cyl. injector hookup, through the wiring harness? Has anyone else had this problem? I cleared the codes and started the car again, but no codes have popped up but the idle is still horrible and rough. My next trick would be to do the carb cleaner around the manifold, or should I take it to a mechanic for the "smoke" test? And the scanner said I am running 40 lbs. fuel pressure with the car running. Does anyone know what the pressure rating is for the fuel line?

Thanks!
 

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Use a NOID light on the suspect injector plug to see if the PCM is firing that injector.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
That's it, the NOID light, couldn't think of what they were called. Are they expensive?

I guess if I find out if the harness is bad, what type of undertaking is that issue? Any idea on harness prices?
 

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If PCM is not firing injector, either the harness or the driver in the PCM is bad. Ohm out harness from injector to PCM for opens / shorts in that circuit. Also inspect PCM connector for corrosion, damaged pins, etc. If harness and connector is good, probably the PCM. If open in the harness, I would just overlay that bad circuit from the PCM to that injector with a new wire.
 

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You can get a 6 pc. noid light set for cheap at harbor freight tools. Comes in a lil red blow-mold plastic box. Item#45625. Im thinking i gave $5-10 or less on sale. Dont know if noid lts. are available through parts store loaner tool programs? ...... Well, harbor frt. has changed things. They now sell an 11 pc. noid lt. & iac tester set for $39.99. Item#97959. Set contains: 8 noid lts., 2 iac testers (test lights) and 4ft. fiber optic ext. cable with cup and hook to test from the drivers seat. Also tests sp. plug circuits.
 

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I cut up some old dead injectors I had laying around (much to my wifes dismay, I even keep old broken crap) and used the top half, with the connectors, along with some #194 bulbs I had laying around to make some NOID lights. Cost = free!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I got a set of noid lights from the loaner tool pgm. and am going to check them out. I checked and saw that a remanuf. pcm is about 200 bucks, but wanted to know if anyone knows if there is a place that will repgrm. mine cheaper? :mellow: But hopefully it will just be the injector!
 

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I hate to say it, but to program a new PCM to the car for PATS compatability, etc, but the dealer is pretty much your only option. :(
 

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Also for the misfire the most obvious culprit after the plug wires is the coil pack. Mine was bad. #1 coil was out on it. It showed good on the ohmmeter but refused to fire. I changed it and it runs like a swiss watch now. That also cleared up several other codes too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ok, checked the fuel injector harness and the noid light lit up like a christmas tree. Good! Now, I cleared the codes last night and only had 3 left P0301, 0305, 0306 when I did the noid light check.

So, I went out last night and got new bosch platinum spark plugs and swapped all 6 and re read the codes and now I only have a P0301. The codes for 0305 and 0306 were probably the plugs because they were fouled horribly and looked like they didn't even fire at all!! I haven't replaced the plug wires yet and they are original and boots starting to look a bit toasted so that is going to be my next step.

Oh yeah, the lean bank 1 & 2 codes are gone along with the O2 sensor code!!

At this point, the codes are disappearing (one by one) but the idle is still rough and power is weak. The throttle response is greatly improved so I am hoping the plug wires will do the trick. If it's not that, I guess I'll have to check the one injector that looked like it wasn't firing and then pull the intake..ugh. :unsure:
 

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I think getting a NOID light is getting way to far ahead. Fix your vacuum leak first. A bad injector would cause a bad misfire, and since you have already tried swapping stuff with no change, I think it s safe to say your misfires are the result of the lean condition, and possibly damage from the lean condition.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
Ok, swapped plug wires yesterday and no change in idle. Still rough and the car sound like it's missing still.

Now the only code left is the P0301. I sprayed carb/throttle body cleaner all around the intake and hoses with the car running and had no change in the idle at all. And now the lean codes are gone completely so I don't think I have a vaccumn leak..

I guess my question is this, with the carb cleaner trick, if it was a vaccumn leak, wouldn't it be affected with the spray? And I'm wondering since the plugs/wires/coil pack didn't work, what else could cause the misfire? EGR valve gasket? Bad EGR? Injector? I don't want to go to a mechanic for the diagnosis, but might have to...:huh:

Oh yeah, I saw on the timing was running anywhere from 16-19 degrees and then up to 32 degrees and the fuel pressure is hovering around 39-41 psi.
 

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Surprised no one has mentioned this yet, but, Tauruses never had a SOHC engine, Pushrod (OHV) or DOHC.
 
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