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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Also, the radio only has volume in reverse and drive. When you put it in park or neutral with the door closed the volume shuts off. The radio light is on, but no volume. Is this normal?
 

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Easy test first. Door open, put the key in the cylinder and the chime should sound. That tells you the switch in the cylinder recognized the key is present. Door closed, turn the key to run but not to start and watch the theft light. If the car recognizes the key chip, that light will light red for full second and go off and stay off.
-chart-
 

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Also, the radio only has volume in reverse and drive. When you put it in park or neutral with the door closed the volume shuts off. The radio light is on, but no volume. Is this normal?
That is not normal. My past, '01 wagon when in "R" no radio sound. Fine other wise. Found the rear speaker wire shorted to the backup light wire. Fixed.
-chart-
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Easy test first. Door open, put the key in the cylinder and the chime should sound. That tells you the switch in the cylinder recognized the key is present. Door closed, turn the key to run but not to start and watch the theft light. If the car recognizes the key chip, that light will light red for full second and go off and stay off.
-chart-
It is chiming, and the theft light goes away when you put the key in ignition. It does not turn red for a second though, it just turns off. I also replaced the ignition switch, and it didnt help. I will definitely return that....
Is there anything else i can check?
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
That is not normal. My past, '01 wagon when in "R" no radio sound. Fine other wise. Found the rear speaker wire shorted to the backup light wire. Fixed.
-chart-
Ok, so it has nothing to do with the car not cranking? could it be something to do with a safety switch not working and not allowing the car to crank or the radio to work?
 

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So the signal gets lost somewhere between the ignition switch and the relay. Perhaps a rodent bit through a wire somewhere. You would have to backprobe some connectors and trace where the signal gets lost. The Haynes manual is not very clear. It says the wire between Ignition Switch and TRS is Red/LightBlue but then there is a White/Pink wire from the TRS to startmotor, which cannot be true because it has to go to the relay first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
so i know there is power coming to my igniton switch through a pink/green wire.
How can i probe the wire/wires? Do i test for continuity through a wire, or test if there is power somewhere??
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I also have one more question. There is a Pink/White wire going to my starter solenoid, and i cut away the insulation and it has no power when you move the key to the crank position. It put power directly to the wire (the part that i cut away) and the car cranks. Where does this pink/white wire go so i can trace it?
 

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How can i probe the wire/wires? Do i test for continuity through a wire, or test if there is power somewhere??
You can "back probe" a connector by sticking a sharp pin (or the paperclip for example) into the connector on the side where the wire enters the connector. You also have special back-probe tools for that. The idea is that you do not need to cut away the insulation of the wire this way.
I also have one more question. There is a Pink/White wire going to my starter solenoid, and i cut away the insulation and it has no power when you move the key to the crank position. It put power directly to the wire (the part that i cut away) and the car cranks. Where does this pink/white wire go so i can trace it?
I assume (but I do not have the Ford diagrams) that the White/Pink-striped wire goes to the relay, exactly where chartmaker pushed-in the wire because if you put 12V there, the starter runs. So that is where pin #87 of the relay goes.
 

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I also assume that it is the PCM itself (and not the Ignition Switch through the TRS directly), that controls the starter relay. For example pin #4 (Tan/Red-stripe wire) is called "Power, Hot in Start with Park or Neutral". Perhaps that is a signal to the PCM that you try to Start the engine. And pin #44 (Pink wire) is called "Starter relay, control". Perhaps this one goes to terminal #86 of the relay. But I'm just guessing here.

Since you checked the relay, I assume there is no 12V on #86 during Start.

Back-probing the pins of the PCM connector is a pain (you will have to take off the Upper Intake). So you might really consider buying the adapter and the Forscan tool.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
I also assume that it is the PCM itself (and not the Ignition Switch through the TRS directly), that controls the starter relay. For example pin #4 (Tan/Red-stripe wire) is called "Power, Hot in Start with Park or Neutral". Perhaps that is a signal to the PCM that you try to Start the engine. And pin #44 (Pink wire) is called "Starter relay, control". Perhaps this one goes to terminal #86 of the relay. But I'm just guessing here.

Since you checked the relay, I assume there is no 12V on #86 during Start.

Back-probing the pins of the PCM connector is a pain (you will have to take off the Upper Intake). So you might really consider buying the adapter and the Forscan tool.
there is no power at pin 86 when trying to crank. Im trying to trace the Pink wire that goes to pin 86
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Also, on my battery positive, there is 3 wires coming off but one of them is cut. It is a red wire with a yellow crimp connector. There is 2 other wires, one going to the starter solenoid and one to the mega fuse. Is this 3rd wire supposed to be there? If so, where is it supposed to go?
Is it aftermarket maybe?
 

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there is no power at pin 86 when trying to crank. Im trying to trace the Pink wire that goes to pin 86
So I assume there is somewhere a Tan/Red-striped wire coming out of the TRS that goes to pin #4 of the PCM. At the TRS this wire might be easy to back-probe. There should be 12V the moment you try to Start.
 

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Also, on my battery positive, there is 3 wires coming off but one of them is cut. It is a red wire with a yellow crimp connector. There is 2 other wires, one going to the starter solenoid and one to the mega fuse. Is this 3rd wire supposed to be there? If so, where is it supposed to go?
Is it aftermarket maybe?
Just checked it on my Taurus (2000 SES Vulcan). Only the two cables you mentioned. No third one.

Perhaps the seller took out an accessory before he sold it to you. Something he wanted to keep or something he didn't want you to have (it was a government owned vehicle, right).
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
So I assume there is somewhere a Tan/Red-striped wire coming out of the TRS that goes to pin #4 of the PCM. At the TRS this wire might be easy to back-probe. There should be 12V the moment you try to Start.
Checking that now! Really appreciate this!
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Just checked it on my Taurus (2000 SES Vulcan). Only the two cables you mentioned. No third one.

Perhaps the seller took out an accessory before he sold it to you. Something he wanted to keep or something he didn't want you to have (it was a government owned vehicle, right).
There is power going to the wire. It is the 3rd to the left on the bottom of the connector, whatever pin that is. How can I test if the power is coming out of the TRS, and where does it go from that?
 

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There is power going to the wire. It is the 3rd to the left on the bottom of the connector, whatever pin that is. How can I test if the power is coming out of the TRS, and where does it go from that?
My assumption was that there is only power on that Tan/Red-striped wire when you try to start the engine and in all other situations there is not. And so that this power comes from the Ignition switch and passes through the TRS only if the transmission is in Park or Neutral. So if the Tan/Red-striped wire is permanently powered, my assumption is wrong.
 

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It is chiming, and the theft light goes away when you put the key in ignition. It does not turn red for a second though, it just turns off.
I just checked it on my 2000 Taurus. It is definitely as chartmaker said. And my Owner's Manual (page 71) confirms that and says chart's proverbial second is in fact 3 seconds, which I'd say is about right. Something that is difficult to miss.

Might seem like a minor issue but it may indicate that the PCM software was changed. Together with the possibility that an accessory was taken out, it just might be that the organization you bought the vehicle from had a different way of starting the car. But my mind is in "free floating mode" now (= not hampered by any factual evidence, circumstantial or otherwise).
 

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Get a pipe and tap the starter body. These cars are notorious for getting a build up of oil INSIDE the starter and when it builds up it causes a no-start when you turn the key. Tap the starter body (not the relady) a few times and see if that helps. I had that very issue a year ago and tapping it got me started in 2 seconds. BE CAREFUL if you leave battery attached not to ground out anything--- BETTER still-- pull negative off the battery just in case.
 
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