Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My car: 2000 Taurus SE with the 12 valve 3.0

Here's the problem.

Check engine light came on after getting the spark plugs done for the first time (@160,000 miles) after the car had sat for 6 months off the road while I was studying in Spain and since then 2 other shops have tried to fix this and failed. The gas tank was left empty and the battery charged with a trickle charger the whole time I was gone and I had never had engine codes prior to this. None of the auto shops so far know why my code wont go away after the suggested fixes for those codes have been tried.

Check engine light codes read p0172 and p0175 which is too rich in banks 1 and 2.
(i might be slightly off in the code numbers but i know its for the codes running rich in bank 1 and running rich in bank 2)

I had the repair shop replace:
Oil
Oil filter
Spark plugs (again)
Mass air flow sensor

On my own I replaced the air filter and added fuel system cleaner to several tanks of gas.
(A note on the air filter: for 2 years now I've been running with a cone shaped KNN filter attached using a gasket to where the OEM airbox and silencer used to be with no problems.) The air filter I bought this latest time was an aluminum one without oil in it. Is that a problem?

The car is now at a dealer so they can maybe fix it. The said they think my new air filter I put in got silicone on the maf sensor and its messed up now and they want to replace it! Does that happen with those kinds of air filters? Next they are going to put an oem filter and my old air box back in.

I just want to know if anyone has any suggestions or has run into this problem before it's driving me crazy and making me poorer with all these darn visits to shops! I failed emissions only in the ODB sensor section. O2 sensor voltages say they are fine too. I've cleared the code after the first maf replacement and the light didn't come back until an hour of driving went by.

If anyone can help me I would be so grateful. I fix computers for a living so I'd help any of you with your problems if you can help me with my car!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
834 Posts
Even if the air filter got oil on the MAF sensor...they make a cleaner specifically for them. I don't understand why the shop hasn't tried cleaning it instead of replacing it a second time??? When is the last time your fuel filter was changed? Is your fuel pressure within specs? Fuel injectors sticking or leaking can cause a bank to run rich as well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,064 Posts
Pull the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator and see if there is fuel present in the hose/in the nipple. Sounds crazy but the diaphragm sometimes goes bad and leaks gas into the vac line.
Also with the engine running, make sure you have vacuum present at the FPR. I had an issue with that...
A shot MAF would give a lean code, not a rich code. The shop is full of crack.
A stuck injector is a long shot, considering it would only set 1 bank rich, unless a few are sticking.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Is there some reason that you haven't replaced the O2 sensors?
[/b]
Thanks for the responses so far everyone! I haven't changed the O2 sensors yet because on the emissions report my voltages on the sensors came back good. Is it still possible to have a bad sensor that gives back an ok reading on voltages? Also I didn't want to risk spending the money on the O2 sensors yet because it seemed like maybe there were other things I should check first. I might do the O2 next though. How many are there on a 2000 taurus 12 valve and how much do they generally go for?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
In response to the other suggestions: I'll clean the maf again, I bought the cleaner kit and did it the very first time around when the engine light came on back when this all started before I even took it in to a shop. When I get a chance I'll also check for fuel in the fpr hose. I think my fpr is working properly, a ford "expert" in my town looked at it and at first for some reason did think my fpr was working too hard but then when I came to pick the car up he said nevermind about the fpr and I never really understood what went on with that. I think my fuel filter was also replaced now that I think about it but I'm not certain. In the meantime I got the car to get re-inspected again so I've got another 2 months to figure this problem out. I got it back from the dealer today because they wanted to dump almost $800 in parts/labor into my car to get it back to original factory state let alone fix the problem and I didn't want to go through that BS. So now $200 in labor and a $20 vacuum hose elbow I didn't need is where I am since I originally posted this problem. Other than that nothing changed.

Only other interesting point was I drove the car 30 miles from the dealer to the inspection station and my check engine light was off until after about 5 starts if you count the inspection garage guys starting my car to drive it into the station. They said the car gave no codes and was error free just that I hadn't driven enough since the last reset so they had to fail me again. The light coming back after the code has been cleared seems to be tied in with how many times I start the car up and then turn it off and not with how far I drive.

Hope this info is enough to maybe shed some more light on the situation. Again, thanks for the help so far and I look forward to seeing if anyone knows anything else to try.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,686 Posts
Is there some reason that you haven't replaced the O2 sensors?
[/b]
O2 sensors don't set lean or rich codes. Ford has even put out a service bulletin about that, because techs were replacing O2 sensors for those codes when they shouldn't have.

A shot MAF would give a lean code, not a rich code. The shop is full of crack.

[/b]
Actually, a bad MAF can cause lean and rich codes, but lean codes are far more common.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top