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Discussion Starter #1
The cruise control on my 2000 Taurus has not worked since I've owned that car and it is a nice feature that I would like to get working. When i press the on button on the steering wheel absolutely nothing happens. No cruise light on the dash or anything indicating it is working.

I read some threads and tried pulling out those buttons and cleaning them but that made no difference. The horn works fine. I have done the cruise control self test and it indicated that there was something wrong with the deactivation switch, so I bought a new one and swapped it out, but still a no go. Upon, closer inspection it appears that one of the two wires that attach to the switch has been severed. It appears that for some reason a length of the wire was cut out and it appears to be on purpose (no idea why this would've been done).

See picture below, the two areas circled in red seem as though they should be connected as they are the same color wire. There is not enough slack on either end to simply solder them back together.



Any suggestions on how to fix this are greatly appreciated.
Thanks
 

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The wire may have also just broke from fatigue since it's pinched at that point.

The proper way to fix it would be to strip both ends and put in an extra piece of wire. Can you get the wires out from under the black clip?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The wire may have also just broke from fatigue since it's pinched at that point.

The proper way to fix it would be to strip both ends and put in an extra piece of wire. Can you get the wires out from under the black clip?
The black clip actually seems to be some sort of zip tie around the cables. I might be able to cut it, but I'm not sure. Its such a tight and awkward space up there that I know I'm going to have a hard time fixing this.

I am also new to wiring in general, so what type of wire should I get and whats the best method for adding in an extra piece?
 

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Well, my guess is it will come off somehow without cutting, so you'll have to take a good look at it.

For wire, just get any old kind of wire that's stranded and about 18 gauge or so. Since you're new, you probably just want to get a few crimp-on butt splice connectors and use those. Whatever you do, make sure the wire are secure and out of the way of other stuff in there so they don't get caught or rub on stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well, my guess is it will come off somehow without cutting, so you'll have to take a good look at it.

For wire, just get any old kind of wire that's stranded and about 18 gauge or so. Since you're new, you probably just want to get a few crimp-on butt splice connectors and use those. Whatever you do, make sure the wire are secure and out of the way of other stuff in there so they don't get caught or rub on stuff.
Thanks! I will have to give that a try. Toughest part seems to the the confined space and lack of any slack on the wires. I will report back and let you know how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Unfortunately, after putting in a new section of cable(which was extremely difficult in that cramped space), the issue still persists. Nothing happens when I hit the "on" button on the steering wheel.

Doing the self test produces three flashes indicating a "deactivator switch is open or circuit defective" Not sure how this can be the case after replacing the switch and repairing the cable.

What else should I be looking at here?

Thanks
 

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Check the switch to make sure it's actually closed with the brake released. The switch might be adjusted properly.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Check the switch to make sure it's actually closed with the brake released. The switch might be adjusted properly.
The switch just has a plunger that is depressed when the brake is engaged. There is no real way to adjust the switch.
 

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Test for switch continuity by putting your two test leads on the terminals at the switch. Make sure it opens and closes when you press the brake pedal. If the switch is reading closed with the DMM but the cruise test says otherwise, then you have a wiring problem elsewhere (or your repair was not effective).
 

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Test for switch continuity by putting your two test leads on the terminals at the switch. Make sure it opens and closes when you press the brake pedal. If the switch is reading closed with the DMM but the cruise test says otherwise, then you have a wiring problem elsewhere (or your repair was not effective).
I will have to get a hold of a multimeter to do that, and it is possible my repair failed, but the wires seemed to be securely in place.
 
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