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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
2000 Taurus AX4N transmission handle dipstick seal?

Hi,

At ~60k miles, My 2000 Taurus AX4S transmission is leaking a little bit of fluid out of the dipstick upper seal. Every other day or so, I'll see a couple drops or maybe half a teaspoon of fluid on the driveway. No, the tranny is not over filled. If you google:
taurus transmission fluid dipstick tube
you'll find several good articles here in TCCA that discuss this. It's usually related to a clogged transmission vent tube/cap, and there is a fix for that. However . . .

It seems that sometimes this leaking can also be caused by a failed seal in the top of the dipstick. My dispstick is lose as a goose in that tube <ok, I can see this turning into a joke session, but let's try not to go there :lol2: ). I'm guessing that over time, the rubber has shrunk.

I'm always looking for the path of least resistance, so I see Rockauto supposedly has a replacement seal for this for under a dollar. Search for this p/n:
E2FZ7N243A
or drill down to
transmission-automatic | dipstick seal

Based only on appearance, Advance auto seems to have the same part here:
Dorman - Help Dipstick Tube Grommet 65113: Advance Auto Parts

If I'm not incorrect, it appears to me that the seal that's in the cap of my tranny's dipstick is not replaceable. Does anyone seem to agree that Rockauto has listed this seal incorrectly as a tranny dipstick seal, when it is actually for the oil dipstick?

Thanks for your comments.

Regards . . .
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I found a tranny drawing. You are correct, that Rockauto part is the seal for the lower end of the tranny dipstick filler tube. I called them and they said the description will get the word "tube" added.

Thanks for your clarification :)
 

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Hi,

At ~60k miles, My 2000 Taurus AX4S transmission is leaking a little bit of fluid out of the dipstick upper seal. Every other day or so, I'll see a couple drops or maybe half a teaspoon of fluid on the driveway. No, the tranny is not over filled. If you google:
taurus transmission fluid dipstick tube
you'll find several good articles here in TCCA that discuss this. It's usually related to a clogged transmission vent tube/cap, and there is a fix for that. However . . .

It seems that sometimes this leaking can also be caused by a failed seal in the top of the dipstick. My dispstick is lose as a goose in that tube <ok, I can see this turning into a joke session, but let's try not to go there :lol2: ). I'm guessing that over time, the rubber has shrunk.

I'm always looking for the path of least resistance, so I see Rockauto supposedly has a replacement seal for this for under a dollar. Search for this p/n:
E2FZ7N243A
or drill down to
transmission-automatic | dipstick seal

Based only on appearance, Advance auto seems to have the same part here:
Dorman - Help Dipstick Tube Grommet 65113: Advance Auto Parts

If I'm not incorrect, it appears to me that the seal that's in the cap of my tranny's dipstick is not replaceable. Does anyone seem to agree that Rockauto has listed this seal incorrectly as a tranny dipstick seal, when it is actually for the oil dipstick?

Thanks for your comments.

Regards . . .
Check the simple things first. See pic. Pic is the tran vent with the rubber cap removed for cleaning. These things have a habit of sticking and thus the expansion will push the dipstick up a bit and fluid spills out the top, runs down the tube and drips off on the pavement. Been there, had that, fixed it. Clean the rubber cap, use a Q-tip, put it back on the proper way. It goes on the first bulge, and is wobbly loose. Push it on too far and it will seal off the vent.

-chart-
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Heads Up: I bought a new tranny dipstick from the local Ford garage. P/N on receipt was F8DZ-7A020-AA, yet P/N on stick is F8DP-7A020-AA . Note the "Z" vs "P". $12.05 + Tx. That was reasonable.

Btw, that tranny vent cap is no longer available for the AX4N. There's a service bulletin that describes using a piece of hose instead. I saw this mentioned elsewhere here on TCCA, but here's a link:
http://www.revbase.com/BBBMotor/TSb/DownloadPdf?id=134846


Regards . . .

5/30/15 Addendum: The rubber seal in the old dipstick cap was .675 - .680" diameter. The new one is .700 - .701" diameter.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Check the simple things first. See pic. Pic is the tran vent with the rubber cap removed for cleaning. These things have a habit of sticking and thus the expansion will push the dipstick up a bit and fluid spills out the top, runs down the tube and drips off on the pavement. Been there, had that, fixed it. Clean the rubber cap, use a Q-tip, put it back on the proper way. It goes on the first bulge, and is wobbly loose. Push it on too far and it will seal off the vent.
-chart-
Yep, the vent cap had been shoved all the way down on the vent nipple (shoved to the 2nd bulge which is at the flat solid top of the cap). Another little present for me from the jerks who rebuilt this tranny a couple years ago: http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/82-maintenance-repair/168651-2000-taurus-wont-shift-into-any-gear-8.html
So yesterday I did reach down, pulled the cap off and cut an X in the top with an exacto knife and put it back on "wobbly loose" on the first detent in the cap. I noticed that even with the X cut in, I had to blow about 5 lbs of pressure into that cap for it to exhaust air out that X end I just cut in there. I might have to do that service bulliten to get this right. Guess I'll know when I see if the new dipstick's seal takes care of the leak.

Regards . . .

P.S. Think about it: Having an open vent without a float valve or check valve, on an expensive piece of equipment that's this low to the ground, is one good reason you don't want to go puddle jumping in this vehicle. I wonder river water would do inside that transmission? I can now see why the Service Bulliten wants you to route that makeshift vent hose up high around the brake master cylinder area.
 

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Yep, the vent cap had been shoved all the way down on the vent nipple (shoved to the 2nd bulge which is at the flat solid top of the cap). Another little present for me from the jerks who rebuilt this tranny a couple years ago: http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/82-maintenance-repair/168651-2000-taurus-wont-shift-into-any-gear-8.html
So yesterday I did reach down, pulled the cap off and cut an X in the top with an exacto knife and put it back on "wobbly loose" on the first detent in the cap. I noticed that even with the X cut in, I had to blow about 5 lbs of pressure into that cap for it to exhaust air out that X end I just cut in there. I might have to do that service bulliten to get this right. Guess I'll know when I see if the new dipstick's seal takes care of the leak.

Regards . . .

P.S. Think about it: Having an open vent without a float valve or check valve, on an expensive piece of equipment that's this low to the ground, is one good reason you don't want to go puddle jumping in this vehicle. I wonder river water would do inside that transmission? I can now see why the Service Bulliten wants you to route that makeshift vent hose up high around the brake master cylinder area.
The OEM design of the rubber cap is a kind of a float. Water over it will not go in in the short term. It was designed to float up and seal on the nipple bulge. Cutting the top would defeat the design. They work 99% of the time, mabye 99.99 if clean and installed properly.

-chart-
 

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Discussion Starter #11
If the openings as in the pic are clean and open, it will function just fine as the factory made it.
-chart-
Can I have some clarification here please:

1. So just where is this "X" really supposed to be? The top of the cap (as it sits on the vent valve) is solid flat black rubber. The bottom of the cap has the hole that fits over the vent tube. Based on some discussion here, I took an exacto knife and cut an X in the top because I had no X there. Since that vent cap is no longer available, did I just create a $5 repair trip to the junk yard for myself?

2. The metal vent tube has a bulge on its end. When you push the vent cap on, that bulge goes in the cap and pops into the first cavity in the cap. If you push down on the cap a little more, the vent tube bulge goes into the second cavity up in the cap. Does anyone know with certainty which cavity the vent tube is supposed to occupy? I would think that if it was going to function as a float valve when submerged, the vent tube bulge would have to go in the first cavity and stay there. Then the second/upper cavity would remain empty holding only air, which would keep the cap upright under water.

Thanks.
 

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Can I have some clarification here please:

1. So just where is this "X" really supposed to be? The top of the cap (as it sits on the vent valve) is solid flat black rubber. The bottom of the cap has the hole that fits over the vent tube. Based on some discussion here, I took an exacto knife and cut an X in the top because I had no X there. Since that vent cap is no longer available, did I just create a $5 repair trip to the junk yard for myself?

2. The metal vent tube has a bulge on its end. When you push the vent cap on, that bulge goes in the cap and pops into the first cavity in the cap. If you push down on the cap a little more, the vent tube bulge goes into the second cavity up in the cap. Does anyone know with certainty which cavity the vent tube is supposed to occupy? I would think that if it was going to function as a float valve when submerged, the vent tube bulge would have to go in the first cavity and stay there. Then the second/upper cavity would remain empty holding only air, which would keep the cap upright under water.

Thanks.
See pic, the 4 openings put there by Ford work. No need for more, they just need to be open. The cap goes only on the first bulge, it must be wobbly loose. Push it all the way on and it is sealed, will not vent.

I think my vent cap got pushed down by accident and it pushed the dip stick out and leaked fluid down to the pavement. I learned about it here on these posts, so I pulled it off, cleaned it off put back on the first bulge and no issues since.

-chart-
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks chartmaker. I'll pull the vent cap off and do a little repair. I have some liquid rubber glue that's used for repairing rubber door molding. Based on experience, a little clean with acetone, then a little coating of that glue will seal up my unnecessary exacto X well enough. It bonds ripped door moldings very nicely.

Regards . . .
 
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