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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all I am new to this site I have a 1999 3.0 vulkan se sedan. The problem I have and I have read of is 1 to 2 upshift slips and jerks but not all of the time. I have heard of other people having this problem but never hear an answer.
I am no stranger to repairing cars but don't get into transmissions to much. This I know the car has no codes in the computer, tryed complete flush with mercon5 with new screen, brought to my trans guy who works for cottman transmission he said the valve body needed modification and a rebuild was in order at 80k. Got the car back and on the 30 minute ride home started again same problem. Happends mostly when car is warm but there is no rym nor reason. Took it back to the guy he said he tryed two valve bodies, output speed sensor and finally reflashed the pcm, also took trans apart and rechecked everything. Picked it up and again when it gets a little hot starts at first with a harsh downshift usually coming to a light then when it takes off it kicks revs up and slams into gear. Let it cool down and shifts perfect. All other gears are perfect and cruises on the highway perfect. He fixed it at his house and had the car for 2 months so I don't want to give it back to him again if someone has had this problem and could point me in the right direction I would be eternally grateful...Oh ya there was a post on here simular but the speedometer dropped to zero and it was the speed sensor, mine does not drop at any time works perfect. To me seems like a valve body hanging up but he said he tryed two in it so i don't know what to think... :werd:
 

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I know it is a mechanical part I was agreeing with your diagnostics, thanks for your help, does anyone know how hard it is to replace the forward clutch piston, I know it is inside the trans but would a mechanically inclined person be able to fix it himself? Jim :ford:
 

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I think you may need some special tools to get it apart, but i might be wrong. I know we have a crapload of specialty tools at the shop that are designed for specific jobs - like removing or installing one specific part in a tranny.

FWIW, it doesn't sound like a cracked forward clutch piston. The old trannies used to have that problem when the piston was made of aluminum, but is has been changed to steel to prevent it. Furthermore, the cracked piston caused the tranny to act as if it was in neutral at stops - you'd hit the gas, the engine would rev up, and eventually, if you were lucky, it would suddenly slam into gear and away you'd go. You could sometimes prevent this from happening by driving with both feet - hold the brake with one, and keep the revs up off idle with the other - that would sometimes prevent the fluid from leaking thru the crack in the piston and keep it engaged.

Anyway, your problem is a harsh 1-2 shift, not a lack of initial engagement, so i doubt it's the piston. It could be a sticking accumulator piston or broken accumulator spring, or a valve body issue. I currently am having a similar issue on my car. The 1-2 shift is too firm, and the tranny guy can't figure out why. I've replace the valve body, which fixed 2 other problems, but not the harsh shift. It did fix an issue i was having with a flare-up after the 1-2 shift when the tranny was hot - basically, after the shift, the trans would seem to go into neutral, the engine rpms would flare up, then it would go back into gear and continue on its way. This sounds kinda like what's happening to you. I had 2 different tranny techs look at my valve body, and neither could see an obvious problem. We put a used valve body on, and it's fixed, so obviously the problem was in the valve body, but not something that could be easily seen by a visual inspection. I know your tranny guy says he tried 2 valve bodies, but maybe he's just telling you that. Or, he did, and the problem is somewhere else. Just some food for thought for you.
 

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Boost valve ?

I mean if it has no codes it has to be mechanical. I would say he didn't really try two different valve bodies and or his computer or his code deciphering skills suck. Also you may just need a shift correction kit ?
BUT... I would think since he rebuilt it he would have known by looking at it all ?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ya He built me a couple good AODS for my 5.0 mustang but not sure if he is up on the newer stuff, He works for Cottman Trans but he should have been able to fix this thing he had it for 2 months...I hate to bring it to another and pay again, maybe I will try a valve body myself I think I know someone that has a trans sitting around...Thanks for all of the input I will keep you advised...Jim
 

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Ya He built me a couple good AODS for my 5.0 mustang but not sure if he is up on the newer stuff, He works for Cottman Trans but he should have been able to fix this thing he had it for 2 months...I hate to bring it to another and pay again, maybe I will try a valve body myself I think I know someone that has a trans sitting around...Thanks for all of the input I will keep you advised...Jim
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TRS? Mine does the same.. i'll let you know.
 
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