Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a '99 Mercury Sable (mmm Ford Taurus) 120k. I replaced the rear shocks and now the front is low so I am replacing the front. (tires were spalding) I get a pulsating on the steering wheel upon breaking no matter what I do to the brakes. Upon tearing everything apart I noticed the ball joint and the stabilizer links rubber is pretty torn up. Question is how much should I replace. I think the ball joints and the stabilizer links are a given.

How about the control arm bushings? CV joints? Wheel bearings?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,377 Posts
do a shake down on the front. look at the rack mounts and see if they are intact. i would suspect a worn tie rod end ( inner or outer ) the last time i tracked down a vibration the rack was loose.
also this might help. have someone watch the wheels on the car as you drive by and apply the brakes. see if the tires shift back in the wheel well. repeat in reverse. this will help determine if its the lcr bushings.
if you are not getting a hum out of the front i would think the bearings are good. if you dont hear a clicking while driving i would think the half shafts are good.
a 12-6 and 3-9 shake down will help confirm the tie rods and ball joint. another test i use on older cars is to have the car on the ground and use my foot to push on the topside of the tire and have someone look at the top of the strut and strut tower.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I've done the 12 and 6 in the past and couldn't find anything. I can't do it now because I have it apart for the shocks. However the boots on the ball joints are destroyed so I thought I'd replace them while I am at. I am just worried about pulling it all apart and missing something so I was thinking about bearings but if I'm not replacing the CVs why replace the bearings? Not sure what to do.

The car seems to wandering a little bit and is a little "squirely" on the highway.

I just don't want to have to pull stuff apart that I already have apart to replace something in the future.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,377 Posts
if you have the extra money to replace parts then i would. this would insure you wont be doing it in the middle of winter and have to get another front end alignment. the sway bar link being worn will make the car unstable and loose at highway speeds. replacing it should tighten it up. the lca bushing shouldnt move to much when you apply pressure with a pry bar. if you get movement and the rubber shows cracks under pressure then it would be a good idea to replace it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,566 Posts
after thought...... are the pads wearing evenly or are they getting tapered?
Good call. Dragging brakes = tapered pads. I had that on a Lin under warrenty. Brake pedal was not always returning to the top position. Brakes pulsed, but that was likely because they were hot.

Well to check for sticking guide pins, even if not tapered wear on pads.

-chart-
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,566 Posts
I have a '99 Mercury Sable (mmm Ford Taurus) 120k. I replaced the rear shocks and now the front is low so I am replacing the front. (tires were spalding) I get a pulsating on the steering wheel upon breaking no matter what I do to the brakes. Upon tearing everything apart I noticed the ball joint and the stabilizer links rubber is pretty torn up. Question is how much should I replace. I think the ball joints and the stabilizer links are a given.

How about the control arm bushings? CV joints? Wheel bearings?
My experience with brakes is they pulse in the pedal or just slow uneven with a rhythm. Not in the steering wheel.

Steering wheel shake is more likely loose suspension parts. You mentioned rubber seals broken. Any seal broken will result in loose parts quickly. Any damaged seal on ball joints should be replaced immediately as well as CV joints.

-chart-
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,300 Posts
LCA bushings: Most don't replace them. Unless LCA is loose. I have an abused ex-police Taurus. Rubber boots were torn on CV and ball joint. But LCA was tight.
Wheel bearing: YOu already did 6-9, 3-12 test and nothing was loose.
CV joint: Not needed unless rubber is torn.
Tie rod ends: Best way to check them is to loosen outer from steering knuckle, and check swivel joints (inner and outer). since you are already working on the ball joints, now is the best time to check them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
47 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks guys!

I think I'm gonna do the ball joints, bearings, sway bar link with the struts. Although I think something is wrong with my frame or control arm on the left side. The control arm bottoms out and won't let the strut out. Either that or something wrong with the strut not sure what that could be?

I posted a new topic for this question.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
115 Posts
I bought a 96 taurus with a bent hub (didn't realize it) when i bought it, and it baked just fine. I went and replaced the rotors, and i got an aweful shake in the steering wheel and entire car when braking. You would hear the metal in the doors rattle. I had the discs turned, wouldnt go away, new discs again, same problem. Then I had the discs turned on the car, and now it brakes fine, although my hub is appearantly bent.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top