[zathros]

I had this car at a very reputable shop. Bank 1 and 2 reporting lean on OBDll codes.They changed all the hoses, removed the intake manifold, changed plugs. The O2 sensors were very weak on the scope. Changed them out. Afterwards, the signals were very strong. I am an electronic technician, and the mechanic showed me everything. Put back together, I drove the car and in less than a day the same codes came back. They sprayed cleaner on the box that the PVC valve connects too, it has a crack in it. The part number is XW4Z-6A785-BA A Ford part number. That piece is no longer available. My 1998 Taurus Comfort SE only has 168K miles on it. The car runs great, but I can tell that the computer is dumping all the fuel it can as gas mileage has gone down a bit, but the car still runs great. The mechanic does not now what to do. They cannot find this part, and neither can I anywhere.

We have isolated the problem down to this part. It irks me that it is "0" degrees outside, and I cannot work on this car now. Motor vehicle will no renew the Registration until the engine service light is off. If it was spring, I could remove XW4Z-6A785-BA and coat it swith High Temperature Steel Epoxy, and try and cure the leak, or make a plate and run a in line PVC valve, I have a small machine shop, maybe even fix that part. Does anyone know where I may be able to find the air fuel separator box for a 1998 Duratec Taurus (Part # XW4Z-6A785-BA)? There is a part "# XW4Z-6A785-BE" that looks the same, but there is no way of knowing if that would work. Does anyone know of a fix, or ann alternative to this fuel oil separator that would work. I am desperate. This was my Mom's car, who passed away 5 months ago. This car has so much sentimental value to me, besides being an excellent automobile, I have to come up with something. I am even thinking of running a can, like a race car. That means having paid for the work for nothing, I had the front axles changed, dropped the fuel tank and replaced the fuel pump, new brakes all the way around. Inner outer tie rod ends replaced, new ball joints. This car runs super amazing, and handles so much better. For such a little part, that should have been made out of metal, to cause me to possible render the car not able to renew the registration ludicrous, but then, Connecticut is the ludicrous state. The diagnosis is not in question as every part in the system has been changed, and a little squirt of fluid on the box instantly causes the OBDll to read Lean Bank 1 and ll, you can see the O2 sensors flatten right out on the O'scope function of the reader.

Desperate for help!! I am open to any suggestions. Thank You.

Ford Part# XW4Z-6A785-BA needed............Will Ford Part Number XW4Z-6A785-BE which looks the same work? Does anyone know?

 

[chartmaker]

I had this car at a very reputable shop. Bank 1 and 2 reporting lean on OBDll codes.They changed all the hoses, removed the intake manifold, changed plugs. The O2 sensors were very weak on the scope. Changed them out. Afterwards, the signals were very strong. I am an electronic technician, and the mechanic showed me everything. Put back together, I drove the car and in less than a day the same codes came back. They sprayed cleaner on the box that the PVC valve connects too, it has a crack in it. The part number is XW4Z-6A785-BA A Ford part number. That piece is no longer available. My 1998 Taurus Comfort SE only has 168K miles on it. The car runs great, but I can tell that the computer is dumping all the fuel it can as gas mileage has gone down a bit, but the car still runs great. The mechanic does not now what to do. They cannot find this part, and neither can I anywhere.

We have isolated the problem down to this part. It irks me that it is "0" degrees outside, and I cannot work on this car now. Motor vehicle will no renew the Registration until the engine service light is off. If it was spring, I could remove XW4Z-6A785-BA and coat it swith High Temperature Steel Epoxy, and try and cure the leak, or make a plate and run a in line PVC valve, I have a small machine shop, maybe even fix that part. Does anyone know where I may be able to find the air fuel separator box for a 1998 Duratec Taurus (Part # XW4Z-6A785-BA)? There is a part "# XW4Z-6A785-BE" that looks the same, but there is no way of knowing if that would work. Does anyone know of a fix, or ann alternative to this fuel oil separator that would work. I am desperate. This was my Mom's car, who passed away 5 months ago. This car has so much sentimental value to me, besides being an excellent automobile, I have to come up with something. I am even thinking of running a can, like a race car. That means having paid for the work for nothing, I had the front axles changed, dropped the fuel tank and replaced the fuel pump, new brakes all the way around. Inner outer tie rod ends replaced, new ball joints. This car runs super amazing, and handles so much better. For such a little part, that should have been made out of metal, to cause me to possible render the car not able to renew the registration ludicrous, but then, Connecticut is the ludicrous state. The diagnosis is not in question as every part in the system has been changed, and a little squirt of fluid on the box instantly causes the OBDll to read Lean Bank 1 and ll, you can see the O2 sensors flatten right out on the O'scope function of the reader.

Desperate for help!! I am open to any suggestions. Thank You.

Ford Part# XW4Z-6A785-BA needed............Will Ford Part Number XW4Z-6A785-BE which looks the same work? Does anyone know?

Search internet.
-chart-

 

[jpohlman]

Check Green Sales Company in Cincinnati.

 

[zathros]

See post below

 

[zathros]

Green Sales says "Out of Stock. I've ordered the part suggested on the attachment from "Tasco". I can make it fit if I must, have a small machine shop and Mig/Tig welder. Some say you have to remove a head to replace this part, but I saw a YouTube Video where the guy removed a Tube at the end of the block and slipped it out. He had to rebuild the gasket, but it fixed the problem. I make make the hose tubing piece on my lathe. I prefer Yamabond #4 over any RTV as this stuff seals motorcycle cases, and does wonders for old gaskets. Fingers crossed. I have till August when emissions has to be checked. These shops will not work outside of "the box", and would rather pull a head and whack you then do an obviously easier way. I'll attach an "Oil Crankcase Catch Can" if I have to and make a plate for the opening on the block with a nipple to attach a hose, and put an in line PVC valve. I will make it work! I will do a follow up and let you all know how it worked out. Thanks very much. I have too much money into this car to toss it, and it was my Mom's car. I want to hold onto it as long as I can. Thank You all!!

 

[mikpal12]

Call your Ford dealer, I was told on alot of parts the last letter could be different than the original, told it is an updated version of the same part; for example my ignition module last 2 letters on original part was AA, new part is now AD, Ford parts rep verbally told me that they change the last letter because it is updated and better than the original, and still OEM. Hope this helps.

 

[zathros]

Does anyone know of the number for the seal/gasket that goes underneath the oil/air separator. I got the part in. Tasco took 10 days to tell me they couldn't get it. The local Ford dealer is useless. I believe the oil separator XW4Z-6A785-BE, is used on the 2000 Taurus. Trying to find that seal has been fruitless, unless they are all the same? I have come up with a couple, they look the same but according to their chart, it won't fit. Any help, as usual will be appreciated. If I can't fix this, I will make a plate to cover the whole in the valley between the heads, with a hose attached, and make a catch can, as a last resort. This would be better for the motor in the long run, as long as it is emptied regularly, of course, I can't do this in 20 degree weather. The shop that did the work, $1600 bucks of it, decided to do what I mainly brought it in for, the "Service Engine Soon" light being in, they replaced the ball joints, drive shafts, and inner and outer steering ends, and a front end alignment. I wish they had done the problem I brought it in for first. I have dumped money into a car that runs fantastic but will fail emissions if that light is on. I have till August, but I feel these idiots should fix it. They sprayed a chemical, and I could see on the screen the 02 sensors flatten out (even replaced them because they were weak), but the PVC pushes air out, so I don't believe they have diagnosed it right. The only way that light could come on in that circuit would be if the PVC valve was closed, and there was air being sucked in through a line, and they replaced all the elbows, and other lines in that system, I had the intake manifold gaskets replaced with Fel-Pro gaskets, and everything is sealed up. You can feel the car has more mid-range power, but the light came on a few hours later.

With my bad back, having to take this car apart in the Spring is really going to be painful, but I bet even if I put a in catch can, that light will still come on, they have missed something. This car only has 160K miles on it and runs like a Bull. It was my recently deceased Mom's car, and I want to keep it going. If anyone knows of where I could look to put in a "PVC Oil catch can", I'd appreciate that info also. I could make one of those. The parts Box had ZW4Z-6A785-EA on it, but the part inside reads "XW4E-6B673-DC". I think all these parts are the same. I have some sheet Rubber, and between that and Yamabond#4, I should be able to mount this low pressure venting assembly. I don't know if that shop I paid the money to will though. Service has really gone downhill these days. I'd like to get the rubber seal that's in the car. Need that part number. Thanks.

 

[mikpal12]

Get the correct (as best as you can) part number and call your Ford parts department, give them that number and they will tell you the new part number (most likely letters maybe different, updated part), then do a search for it on eBay, I suggest Sparks-Surplus, he has OEM and aftermarket parts which are hard to find, and he is inexpensive with quick shipping, I use him for all the hard parts to find and he's been great, there are a few other ones on eBay too. Hope it helps and good luck!

 

[ice445]

Just use Permatex "the right stuff" to seal it up.

 

[Jeff K]

^^^^^ Agree. Basically a free fix. Be sure to let it dry completely before driving the car.

 

[zathros]

If I were going to just seal that part with goop, I would use Yamabond#4, as that stuff never leaks, and makes Permatex look like Mayonnaise.

I have not only found the Rubber Seal part number but received it, and it fits! The Ford part number for the Seal is: 3F1Z-6B752-A

The Ford dealers are useless around here. So, in case anyone reads this, the air/oil separator is XW4Z-6A785-EA, the part number on the actual part reads: XWE-6B673-DC.

The Rubber Seal number is: 3F1Z-6B752-A

There is a metal tube at the end of the valley, and if it is the same on my 1998 car, that tube (coolant hose tube) can be collapsed, and the Air Oil Separator can be slide out. I'll let you know when I get there. I hope this may help someone in the future. I saw a video on this repair on YouTube. The Link is:

The part number for the tube is:
Connector Hose - Ford (2S7Z-8A505-AA)