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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 98 ax4n, I've replaced fluid, filter, vss, shift solenoid C, and nss.

problem started as hard shifts, then after highway driving for 120 miles, it wouldn't shift out of 2nd until I stopped the car, shifted through all gears, then it was fine.

transmission then started emitting a high pitch whine while hard shifting, mostly through lower gears.

at first I could get it to shift by revving it high then letting off around the shift point, and it'd click into second, now I get nothing. tops out at abour 25mph.

before I lost all the high gears, I remember it feel like it was slipping on the highway, took me a few miles to slowly get up to speed. no slipping in first gear though, it goes 0-25 quick enough to chirp the wheels.
 

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Might be TRS/MLP. My uncle's '96 just had a problem where it wouldn't shift out of first until about redline. I hooked it up to the scan tool and watch the MLP, and it was reading Drive when the shifter was in park, reverse and neutral. Once you got down into drive, it was reading Manual 1 - so the PCM thought he had the shifter in first when he had it in drive, and wouldn't shift.
 

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I have a 98 ax4n, I've replaced fluid, filter, vss, shift solenoid C, and nss.

problem started as hard shifts, then after highway driving for 120 miles, it wouldn't shift out of 2nd until I stopped the car, shifted through all gears, then it was fine.

transmission then started emitting a high pitch whine while hard shifting, mostly through lower gears.

at first I could get it to shift by revving it high then letting off around the shift point, and it'd click into second, now I get nothing. tops out at abour 25mph.

before I lost all the high gears, I remember it feel like it was slipping on the highway, took me a few miles to slowly get up to speed. no slipping in first gear though, it goes 0-25 quick enough to chirp the wheels.
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Sad to say mine did the same thing... the tranny was toast. Needed a rebuild (which in my neck of the woods was close to 3k) which I didn't bother with. I suppose it depends on what your mileage is, condition of the car, etc if one wants to invest the money.
 

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If you can't det it fixed, depending on where you're located, I've got a good AX4N from a 98' Sable with 112k on it for sale. When the car died (electrical problems), it shifted as good as the day I bought the car.

Let me know if you're interested.

JR
 

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It was calculated as either the forward clutch piston, solenoids or an internal seal failure. I would have had to pay quite a bit just for them to take a gander at it and then I would have been stuck without the car altogether as I figured if they started tearing it apart that would be the end if it. With the mileage it had and the year, I just couldn't justify the cost, not to mention other parts were starting to go on the old beast. :)
 

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I already replaced the NSS, on this model the TRS is part of it, it's been calibrated.
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NSS? You mean neutral safety switch? Actually, it's the other way around - the TRS is the part you replaced, and the PCM uses the signal from it to determine when you have neutral selected - there isn't really a neutral safety switch on the car. How long ago did you replace it, and did you install a new part, or a used one? If it was used, it could be failed. Even if it's new, it could be faulty. I'd still think it's worth getting it checked out before you decide you need a tranny. Sometimes new parts can be junk too - i just replaced a battery in a customers car that kept doing dead, even tho i couldn't find a draw on it. The battery was a brand new aftermarket unit that had just been put in. New ford battery fixed it right up. A while ago, i put 4 heater cores in one truck within months - all the new ford ones kept springing leaks after a short time - finally put in an aftermarket unit made of copper instead of aluminum, and the truck hasn't been back. So, i'd still get the TRS checked to be sure it's not that.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
tried leaving the battery cable off for a few days to reset computer, still only has one gear. I noticed I had to hit 20 before the speedometer registered more than 0, however the VSS has been replaced. is there another common issue in the circuit that would cause issues? wiring diagram anywhere?
 

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I realize this is a 12 yr old thread, but for those looking for answers..... I had the same issue, and swore it was the VSS. I changed it twice...no luck. Then found that the wires from the VSS had melted together, due to their proximity to the EGR and exhaust manifold. I fixed the wires, and problem solved.
 
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