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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good day, TCCA.
Beforehand I clarify that I have seen discussions about the same problem that I have, however I did not see a solution to my situation. The car is not sending the temperature signal to the gauge correctly. I have changed the sensor of the sender, which has a red wire with a white line. If I ground the wire to ground, the gauge measures in "H", which indicates that the sensor line is not damaged. With the old sensor, the needle at least marked on the letter "C"; with the new sensor it does not move. Is it possible that the internal resistance of the new sensor is different? The coolant sensor would have something to do with it? I clarify that the thermostat is installed. Thanks.
 

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The sensor (that goes to the PCM) and the sender (that goes to the instrument panel) are next to each other. Left (grey) and right (brown) respectively in this picture:

Sensors.jpg

As you see their connectors are different (the sensor has its left notch in the middle while it is off the middle at the sender). So in principle it should not be possible to interchange the connectors.

Nonetheless, it is all somewhat confusing. Most of the items in the "Temperature sensor/sender" category at Rockauto are sensors, and to add to the confusion, the cheapest item is called a sender while it is clear from the picture it is a sensor. So perhaps somebody installed a sensor in stead of a sender, and filed off the notch to make it fit.
 

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Meanwhile, it would be a good idea to have a OBD-II scantool so you can see the sensor's value measured by the PCM. That reduces your chances of accidental overheating while the instrument panel gauge is not working.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The sensor (that goes to the PCM) and the sender (that goes to the instrument panel) are next to each other. Left (grey) and right (brown) respectively in this picture:

View attachment 218247

As you see their connectors are different (the sensor has its left notch in the middle while it is off the middle at the sender). So in principle it should not be possible to interchange the connectors.

Nonetheless, it is all somewhat confusing. Most of the items in the "Temperature sensor/sender" category at Rockauto are sensors, and to add to the confusion, the cheapest item is called a sender while it is clear from the picture it is a sensor. So perhaps somebody installed a sensor in stead of a sender, and filed off the notch to make it fit.
Thanks, Architect, for your reply.
I must say I am confused with your reply. In first, watching your picture, I can see we have different engines; mine is a Vulcan 3.0 OHV. I'll take some pics to my engine to compare sensor an sender with your picture.
Thanks.
 

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FYI, starting with the GEN 4.5 (2004 to 2007) There is only one temp sensor (the ECT) that is used for both the gauge and the PCM. PCM sends temp to the dash gauge via the CANBUS.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The sensor (that goes to the PCM) and the sender (that goes to the instrument panel) are next to each other. Left (grey) and right (brown) respectively in this picture:

View attachment 218247

As you see their connectors are different (the sensor has its left notch in the middle while it is off the middle at the sender). So in principle it should not be possible to interchange the connectors.

Nonetheless, it is all somewhat confusing. Most of the items in the "Temperature sensor/sender" category at Rockauto are sensors, and to add to the confusion, the cheapest item is called a sender while it is clear from the picture it is a sensor. So perhaps somebody installed a sensor in stead of a sender, and filed off the notch to make it fit.
Good morning.
Sir, here are some pics from my engine.
218249
218250


As you can see, my Temp. sender is different to yours. However, I'm thinking to do an irregular thing: I'm thinking that the problem in the sender is a faulty ground. So, I'll go to connect a wire from metal sender to chassis ground after the car be 5 -10 minutes running. If it's a problem of ground, sender must work using this method. Am I right?

Thanks in advance.
 

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You're right, it is different. And it might be that too much teflon tape was used so the sender has no proper ground.

Which makes me wonder: could it be that the sender that Rockauto sells (with the brown connector), and which is in my 2000 Vulcan, is just the same sender and that the brown 2-pin connector can be screwed off leaving you with the bare 1-pin sender? In other words, Ford also figured out that a proper grounding is not guaranteed and therefore added the second pin which just connects to the body of the sender.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well, sir. Truly I am not sure. But if we pay attention to de wiring, it's possible that we both are correct to take ground from other location. No teflon was used but it's kind of rust inside; could be the problem.

Another thing is that my car was using water before I get it; rusty hoses and lines was the less i could see.

Sir, consider you that I could use a different sender on this car? In other words, Could I use a two lines sender? So, could connect a wire to ground and the other to the gauge... Pardon me if I sound pretty insane.
 

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Could I use a two lines sender? So, could connect a wire to ground and the other to the gauge...
Yes, I think that is correct. And I base that on the fact that Rockauto claims that several 2-wire senders fit your 1997 Vulcan.

They are pretty cheap but look for the brown connector or at least the off-the-middle notch of the connector.

By the way, I just found a similar discussion here:

Coolant Temp Sender CONFUSION
 

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And here is another one:

Coolant sensor vs. temp. gauge sender

I think the "sender" is nothing but an NTC (Negative Temperature Coefficient) resister: its resistence drops with the temperature. That's why the gauge indicated Hot when you connected the Red/White wire to the ground. According to the Haynes manual (section 3.6) the resistence is 275 ohms when cold and 18 to 20 ohms at operating temperature. You could check that before you replace the sender (again).
 

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Just for completeness: you are absolutely sure that the engine is not in fact cold like the gauge indicates, right?
 

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I had a quick look at my 2000 Vulcan and guess what?

The brown connector attached to the 2-wire sender has only one Red/White-striped wire coming out!

So with this connector you could make your Taurus Y2K compliant :) :

Temperature-sender-connector.jpg

Just kidding. This connector is $27 while the sender itself is $2.70.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
And here is another one:

Coolant sensor vs. temp. gauge sender

I think the "sender" is nothing but an NTC (Negative Temperature Coefficient) resister: its resistance drops with the temperature. That's why the gauge indicated Hot when you connected the Red/White wire to the ground. According to the Haynes manual (section 3.6) the resistance is 275 ohms when cold and 18 to 20 ohms at operating temperature. You could check that before you replace the sender (again).
Regards. In fact, minutes ago, I measured the resistance of de sender. When is cold (dismounted of the car) it measures 278 ohms. I put it in boiling water and it measured 440 ohms when hot. So, this sender maybe is NOT for temperature measuring... could am I right?
I think sender resistance could set ohms down instead of ohms up when hot.
I discart faulty ground connecting a direct wire from negative battery pole to the body of the sender when it was mounted and 10 minutes car running; doing that, the temperature gauge doesn't even move.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I had a quick look at my 2000 Vulcan and guess what?

The brown connector attached to the 2-wire sender has only one Red/White-striped wire coming out!

So with this connector you could make your Taurus Y2K compliant :) :

View attachment 218253

Just kidding. This connector is $27 while the sender itself is $2.70.
218258

Searching, I found that kind of sensor; I wonder if it's the same thqat you say. The problem is taht I don't have the plug for this one.
Would it be possible to replace the sender with this sensor and make it function as the sender to measure the temperature?
Any advise?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yes, I think that is correct. And I base that on the fact that Rockauto claims that several 2-wire senders fit your 1997 Vulcan.

They are pretty cheap but look for the brown connector or at least the off-the-middle notch of the connector.

By the way, I just found a similar discussion here:

Coolant Temp Sender CONFUSION
Yes, I was reading that discussion before post this.
 

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View attachment 218258
Searching, I found that kind of sensor; I wonder if it's the same thqat you say. The problem is taht I don't have the plug for this one.
Would it be possible to replace the sender with this sensor and make it function as the sender to measure the temperature?
Any advise?
That sender to the left is just $ 2.70 at Rockauto. I would simply solder two wires to the terminals and fill the rest with hot glue. Then you do your ohms tests and when happy you install the sender and attach the Red/White wire. But that is me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
That sender to the left is just $ 2.70 at Rockauto. I would simply solder two wires to the terminals and fill the rest with hot glue. Then you do your ohms tests and when happy you install the sender and attach the Red/White wire. But that is me.
Sir, it's a good idea. I tested each terminal; I noticed that one of them is grounded directly to brass and the other is 738 ohms (more or less).
A friend says that he can find a plug for that sensor/sender in a workshop near him. I will wait for him and if not I will make the idea that you have given me.
After that probe, I'll re-post the results.

Thanks everyone.
 

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View attachment 218258
Searching, I found that kind of sensor; I wonder if it's the same thqat you say. The problem is taht I don't have the plug for this one.
Would it be possible to replace the sender with this sensor and make it function as the sender to measure the temperature?
Any advise?
1998 is the first year they started using the sensor on the left, that's why you don't have the right connection for it.
 
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