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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I have a 1995 Ford Taurus GL with 70,000 miles on it. Just recently it began to shudder when driving 45-55 mph with my engine light coming on within the first 10 minutes of it doing this. I pulled over, turned my car off and it went away until the next morning. After driving it for a few weeks it shudders constantly at all speeds even when idling as if its not getting any gas at times. I went to a mechanic and he told me it was my serpentine belt but I was highly skeptical and would like a second opinion. The car is leaking gas, not very much but there is a small puddle under my car whenever I park it somewhere. I'm going to be bringing it in somewhere else and was just wondering if I could get an opinion on what may be wrong with it before I spend any money on repairs. I'm in a bad situation as I am supposed to be moving across country and am now without a car and since I am relocating for a new job, not very much to afford car repairs. I also have that problem with it shifting hard in 1st/2nd gear but I can deal with that. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks.
 

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go to autozone and have them pull the codes. as long as you didn't disconnect the battery, the codes will still be stored in the PCM, even if the light has gone out. AS far as the shuddering and hard 1-2 shift, it sounds like your tranny is starting to go. Time to save up for a new one i'm afraid.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for your response. Sorry I forgot to mention that this all happened after my battery died one day in the severe cold, I had it jumped and it began shuddering that same day. So, yeah the clock and everything was reset. It's a pretty rough shudder. This started about 3 weeks ago and has just gotten progressively worse since then. I can't afford a new tranny/car at this time so I hope it's not that..
 

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The battery died and was dead all night/day, it seemed to have been OK so I kept trying to start the car but apparently there wasnt enough juice. It was on empty so I thought I might have frozen the fuel lines so I went and bought some HEET just in case and had a friend come over and jump it. It took alot of work to get it going, a few hours atleast (during which the other car was hooked up to it), we just kept holding the pedal down and it finally started up. Maybe I really messed it up somehow but I was late for work so I beat the crap out of it, to the best of my ability, to get it started. So anyway, I headed out (a 30 minute drive) within minutes of it starting and the check engine light came on about 1/3 of the way there. The car was shuddering so I pulled over and turned it off/on really quick and it went away (the engine light) and wasn't present on my return home later in the evening and hasn't appeared since. Although, I have that problem with my spedo flying all over the place, and my temperature always reads cold (not completely cold, but just a little above the C -- this happened around the same time, it used to stay in the middle).

Is there any place else I can go to get my codes read for free? Supposedly there are only 12 autozones in Minnesota and they are all pretty far away from me.

I wasn't sure what the issue was so I went ahead about a week or so after and pulled that plug in the trunk to stop the fuel from being pumped in, I thought maybe I flooded the engine or whatever and it might be full of crud. That didn't work. I also added in 2 bottles of that valvoline max treatment and it did squat.

Only thing I've noticed is that when I first start it up, for the first 30 seconds or so the car is fine. I mean not a single problem (except for that rattling noise, but I heard that has something to do with the heat shield?). I pull right out onto a 45 mph zone with big hills, theres a big difference between the first mile leaving and that last mile coming back. Nothing is wrong with it at first. Like its something with the fuel pump, line, filter or something. I have no idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I went to autozone and the guy was a d*** he told me that he couldnt pull the codes on anything earlier than a 96
 
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They may just not have the proper code reader for the car. Are there any other chain stores in the area? Perhaps you could call them and find out if they can read your codes.

It sounds to me like once the car is out of closed loop (preset computer function, it doesn't rely on sensor input in this mode), it starts running like crap. My guess is that it's the IAC motor, which is the cause of most cars that act this way. I would try cleaning that out and see what happens. You can use a spray carburetor cleaner to clean it out, then reinstall it. The IAC motor is mounted on the manifold, is about 2.5" long, and the back part of it is round. The front part of it mounts to the manifold, and has a flange on it. There is one electrical connector on the rear of the motor.

Other than this, without having the codes makes it harder to diagnose, and I'd hate to guess any further than this.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Hey Bob, thanks for your response. I went back there after re-reading silvapain's post about how it would be kept in the PCM as long as the battery wasn't disconnected. But the guy working is a prick and kept bs'ing me until I was finally able to convince him to do it. He kept telling me they didnt have the equipment but before I left I looked under the hood and saw the spot where you would use an adapter and finally after alot of insistance he read it for me. Unfortunately I had my AC on and he said that I got code 539 (Meaning something along the lines of "Re-test without the AC on") then when I asked him if we could re-test it he, obviouslly lieng, said it also got a pass code meaning it was ok. But how could it be OK if 539 said we needed to rescan it without the AC on? Anyway, I will see if I can find some more information on that IAC motor and will try what you suggest. I am going to try going to another AutoZone tomarrow that is even farther away, that guy is lucky I am in a good mood if he would have been helpful I would have tipped him for the extra work. Everyone there was rolling there eyes, acting very rude. That is his job, what else did he have to do that was so important. I'm a computer engineer, I'm used to dealing with the same things. Anyway, thanks for your help I'm gonna see if I'm capable of messing with that thing.
 

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Ok so I went to this place that was going to read my codes but they said they didnt have anyone there to do it at that time and to come back a little bit later. I went and bought some TransMed (or something like that, for temporarily repairing transmissions) and a bottle of ProLong. I added both and headed back home. About three or four miles down the road I ended up in heavy highway traffic so I decided to take a detour, on the off ramp light the car suddenly lost all its power and wouldnt go faster than 5 mph. Luckily directly across the street there was a school parking lot and i just sorta cruised right into it instead of taking my left turn. I coasted into a parking space and put it into park, then the car died. I restarted it and was trying to see if I could will it back home, being only a few miles away, but the power steering and everything just shutdown on me. It was moving but not faster than 5 mph. I restarted it again and it died when I put it into drive. After that it wouldnt start at all. I let it sit for about 20 minutes, tried again and nothing. I lingered around the car for about an hour before I decided to walk home. Kinda sucks since I have a friend whos a mechanic and we were gonna bring it over to his house and work on it tomorrow. Now I gotta wait till 9pm to get a hold of someone else and convince them to tow it for me..
I think it must have been that TransMed stuff. The transmission fluid was dark brown, didnt have any shavings in it, it smelled like crap but didnt smell burnt or whatever. Well, this sucks.
 
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