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Discussion Starter #1
Trying to get car running after head replacement. Crank from cabin with key the look fo marks on dampener. Found a mark on dampener had to remove and reset distributor to line up rotor to number one post on cap. Not sure if found the correct mark. See attached image.
Have not see my remote start push button in 25 years. Most of my old fords have fender mount solenoid So I tried a long screwdriver on the top front post of the solenoid to the one behind and below. I now know this is the grounded post of the solenoid. It sparked extremely; now it does not crank.
Mega fuses all good.

Any help appreciated .
 

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Trying to get car running after head replacement. Crank from cabin with key the look fo marks on dampener. Found a mark on dampener had to remove and reset distributor to line up rotor to number one post on cap. Not sure if found the correct mark. See attached image.
Have not see my remote start push button in 25 years. Most of my old fords have fender mount solenoid So I tried a long screwdriver on the top front post of the solenoid to the one behind and below. I now know this is the grounded post of the solenoid. It sparked extremely; now it does not crank.
Mega fuses all good.

Any help appreciated .
All you need is a short wire with a quarter inch spade connector on one end. And fuse locations and wire diag to show which hole is which. Pic is G-4 for starter. Same works for hot wire A/C for checking clutch or holding clutch for removal.

And there is a "witness mark" on the dist and the intake manifold. Line them up and you should be really close.

-chart-
 

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Have you checked the fuses in the underhood fuse box?

Mike, the OP is talking about a 95...... completely different electrical system compared to the G3 and G4 Tauri.
 

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What happens of you run a jumper from the batt pos terminal to the solenoid on the starter that has the thinner wire on it?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
1995 Taurus 3.0 L Vulcan static timing? Now crank, no start

Overnight I charged the car battery and my jumpbox. Today I purchased a remote start switch.

I was now able to line marks on the dampener and the timing pointer. See picture for reference to the marks and pointer. Now lined up with spout out timing now is 10 degrees btc, but will not start. Spray into filter Berman B12 chemtool to see if it would help it fire. No luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Car Running and Driving

1) Could not get it to fire with charged Battery or jump box. Found battery would not be at 12.0 volts after sitting a few hours.

2) Jumped with running car. No luck Put brass marine terminals on cables instead of the metal OEM terminals.

3) Redetermine if distributor is in correct spot. I was not.

4) Started. Drove it. Used jump box for a day and a half. Bought new Battery.(Thank You Napa fits in a bucket sale)


5) Little things: Dash indicator lights some burned out, some intermittent. Have LEDS and LL bulbs.

Air Bad light flashing 53 code till lamp burned out. Suspect Air Bag Sensor that is on core support that I left connected but dangling down for a couple of months.

Brake Light switch and connector. Fiddling with connection under dash to get it out of park or finding our that cruise control will not cut off. Replaced melted connector have new switch. Keep hitting assembly with my foot on both the 1995 and 2002. Never had the problem driving assigned Fleet Sable then Taurus Wagon Models for same company from 1987 model to 1998. New one most every Year until we could order 1999 Windstar. 1995 was a fleet car for that company that a relative bought with less than 8000 mile on it in for the first year. From then till I acquired it it was garaged, dealer serviced and driven about 10k miles a year. Still has hone on cylinder walls.

Found out yesterday I need a A/C recharge.
 
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