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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Yesterday I decided I would buy some throttle body cleaner spray and try to clean out the intake as much as possible, so I removed all the intake, box, MAF, up to the throttle body, which seemed like too much work to remove, so I cleaned out the inside of the pipes, replaced filter, cleaned *the outside only* of the MAF, and sprayed a good amount of cleaner in the TB and IAC valve, I was able to remove a decent amount of gunk from both!


Now to the problems, once everything was back together and plugged in I tried to start the car....turn turn turn..nothing....hmmm
k, so I put it on WOT to burn any left over fluid, and it started after about 3 or 4 seconds, so I just let go of the gas pedal and it just died.

Now I either have to start it and idle it manually with my foot or I have to turn the idle screw down all the way!

I let it sit overnight and started it in the morning with the screw all the way in and it hunts around from 600-1100 rpm for a while before it sits at 850-900.

What the hell did I do wrong now???

Turning on the AC or other accesories makes the idle go a little higher. so maybe I think IAC valve is good. (near new condtiion)

Please help me...I really need the car for school. Thanks in advance.

Edit: Seems I am getting code 157 :/
 

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Is the CEL lit???? If so, have the computer scanned for trouble codes & post All of the trouble code Numbers, as they can offer up good trouble shooting clues.

If no CEL, you processed three things that'll affect idle. The IAC is responsible for maintaining idle speed, so if your cleaner wasn't friendly to it's operating electrical coils winding insulation & some solvent leaked in to the windings, it could have dissolved some of the windings insulation causing them to short out & make the IAC's control range weak.

If the residual spray around the MAF sensor or external dirt has contaminated the MAF sensor, that can mess with & corrupt it's PID output to the computer about true airflow into the engine & mess with idle quality.

Lastly the throttle body, don't know how bad it's deposits were, exactally how you did the cleaning, or how well it cleaned up, but if the thin edge of the throttle plate is hanging up & sticking open due to remaining or dried deposits, that'll corrupt the computed starting air/fuel ratio & confuse things.

SO, maybe consider pulling the battery B- cable to clear the computers KAM, then remove the MAF sensor & cleaning it with a plastic safe, non residual spray product thats formulated just for cleaning the MAF sensor, like CRC, or Valvolene MAF spray cleaner.
Let it cool before cleaning, don't touch or poke it's sensor with the spray wand & keep it squeeky clean during re-installation.

Maybe pull the IAC electrical connector & measure the IAC electrical resistance.
Make sure the IAC & MAF sensors electrical connectors are fully plugged in.

Then reconnect the B- cable & go through the cold & warn idle strategy relearn proceedure & see how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Is the CEL lit???? If so, have the computer scanned for trouble codes & post All of the trouble code Numbers, as they can offer up good trouble shooting clues.

If no CEL, you processed three things that'll affect idle. The IAC is responsible for maintaining idle speed, so if your cleaner wasn't friendly to it's operating electrical coils winding insulation & some solvent leaked in to the windings, it could have dissolved some of the windings insulation causing them to short out & make the IAC's control range weak.

If the residual spray around the MAF sensor or external dirt has contaminated the MAF sensor, that can mess with & corrupt it's PID output to the computer about true airflow into the engine & mess with idle quality.

Lastly the throttle body, don't know how bad it's deposits were, exactally how you did the cleaning, or how well it cleaned up, but if the thin edge of the throttle plate is hanging up & sticking open due to remaining or dried deposits, that'll corrupt the computed starting air/fuel ratio & confuse things.

SO, maybe consider pulling the battery B- cable to clear the computers KAM, then remove the MAF sensor & cleaning it with a plastic safe, non residual spray product thats formulated just for cleaning the MAF sensor, like CRC, or Valvolene MAF spray cleaner.
Let it cool before cleaning, don't touch or poke it's sensor with the spray wand & keep it squeeky clean during re-installation.

Maybe pull the IAC electrical connector & measure the IAC electrical resistance.
Make sure the IAC & MAF sensors electrical connectors are fully plugged in.

Then reconnect the B- cable & go through the cold & warn idle strategy relearn proceedure & see how it goes.
Ok, I pulled the negative battery cable and re-ran the code reader (with no CEL) and got a 111 so no no problems anymore, I replaced the IAC and now its working sorta fine.

My question is now: How far in is the idle screw supposed to be in? Maybe it was set wrong before and now its correct being almost all the way in. WHen before it was pretty far out.

When it first started after replacing the IAC it was running very rough, I went through the process of idle relearning and now its working as before (maybe feels a bit stronger...not sure) I have yet to test a cold start up though. I just dont know if the screw is meant to be that far in.

Thank you.
 

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Reading through your posts a number of things still come into question, so you may have more than one problem.

If you had a trouble code/s set before pulling the B- cable to wipe the KAM, post the code Numbers you had.

If you didn't wait for the engine to fully cool off, the cold & warm idle relearn proceedure wasn't performed properly, so it'll need to be redone.

Before you redo it, start the engine & let it fully warm up, disconnect the IAC electrical connector & adjust the idle screw so that the engine idles down to about 550 rpm in "N" or "P", then reconnect the IAC & let the engine fully cool off, before redoing the cold & warm idle strategy relearn proceedure & see how it goes. If the warm idle without the IAC connected is properly set, the engine should run rough or stall, when you disconnect the IAC. This low rpm preset is so that the engine rpm will drop low enough when the ignition is turned off, that it won't suffer run on/diesel.

On the engine running rough, you may have fouled the spark plugs by having the engine ingest all of the throttle body spray & the crud it loosened, so maybe consider a dose of Techron Concentrate Plus in a tank of gas & see if it'll tidy things up some.
Advance Auto has the 20 oz size on special this month at a 2 for 1 deal.

Let us know how it goes.
 

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I'm no expert on the 3.8's, but what screw were you adjusting for the idle? If the car has an IAC, the screw is probably to adjust the throttle blade stop, right? I was under the impression that you shouldn't touch it (I thought they put Loctite on them)? I always thought 100% of the air at idle was supposed to come through the IAC bypass. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

If you go and clean the MAF, IAC, etc and start the car again, because of the adaptive strategy the PCM uses, the idle will be way off because of all the big changes. It will eventually relearn the idle over time, but it's best to disconnect the battery cable to clear the KAM like pawpaw said so the PCM can learn from the calibration baseline instead of "learning backwards."
 

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I'm no expert on the 3.8's, but what screw were you adjusting for the idle? If the car has an IAC, the screw is probably to adjust the throttle blade stop, right? I was under the impression that you shouldn't touch it (I thought they put Loctite on them)? I always thought 100% of the air at idle was supposed to come through the IAC bypass. Please correct me if I'm wrong.

If you go and clean the MAF, IAC, etc and start the car again, because of the adaptive strategy the PCM uses, the idle will be way off because of all the big changes. It will eventually relearn the idle over time, but it's best to disconnect the battery cable to clear the KAM like pawpaw said so the PCM can learn from the calibration baseline instead of "learning backwards."
You are correct.

The screw just keeps the butterfly from sticking in the bore. If it were not there, it would just stick shut. All the flow is done by IAC. Remember, the IAC does not shut off, it has some opening designed with no power to the solenoid.

If you do open the butterfly with the screw, the system trys to adjust, but is is just not right.

If a screw has been messed with, then back it off, let the butterfly stick shut, then add enough screw to just unstick the butterfly. That is it.

-chart-
 

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If you go and clean the MAF, IAC, etc and start the car again, because of the adaptive strategy the PCM uses, the idle will be way off because of all the big changes. It will eventually relearn the idle over time, but it's best to disconnect the battery cable to clear the KAM like pawpaw said so the PCM can learn from the calibration baseline instead of "learning backwards."
Hello Behlinla,

I also want to clean the MAF for my car. Here is what I have learned from this forum:

Step 1> Wait until the engine is completely cool
Step 2> Remove the MAF with torx bit
Step 3> Spray the CRC MAF Cleaner with care on the MAF fuse
Step 4> Wait until the MAF is completely dry
Step 5> Reinstall MAF.

Question 1> Now comes the question, some people mentioned to cold & warm idle relearn strategy.
I really don't understand how I should do.

Question 2>Also when I disconnect the battery to clear KAM, should I just disconnect the Negative battery cable or I have to remove +/- cables?

Thank you
 

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I would leave the MAF in it's sleeve, so don't remove the torx screws. Just remove the flexible intake pipe from throttle body and MAF housing (remove the two hose clamps). Unplug the MAF and IAT sensor, and release the clips holding on the air filter box like you're going to change the air filter. Then just remove the whole assembly. Spray the MAF from the filter side and let completely dry as per your instructions.

For idle relearn, just let your car idle for a few minutes (part of the time in park, and part of the time in gear). It will learn automatically.

Removing only one battery cable is enough.
 

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I would leave the MAF in it's sleeve, so don't remove the torx screws. Just remove the flexible intake pipe from throttle body and MAF housing (remove the two hose clamps). Unplug the MAF and IAT sensor, and release the clips holding on the air filter box like you're going to change the air filter. Then just remove the whole assembly. Spray the MAF from the filter side and let completely dry as per your instructions.

For idle relearn, just let your car idle for a few minutes (part of the time in park, and part of the time in gear). It will learn automatically.

Removing only one battery cable is enough.
I just removed the air box and carefully examined the MAF. Based on my standard, it looks like new.

Can you check it for me and see whether or not I am right?

HD Image is here:
http://i50.tinypic.com/xm2xiw.jpg
 

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It looks pretty clean from here, but the parts that count are really small and out of focus in your picture. I annotated it for you. Make sure these parts look clean (you might need a magnifier to see them). Remember not to touch them with anything because they are very fragile.
 

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I would leave the MAF in it's sleeve, so don't remove the torx screws. Just remove the flexible intake pipe from throttle body and MAF housing (remove the two hose clamps). Unplug the MAF and IAT sensor, and release the clips holding on the air filter box like you're going to change the air filter. Then just remove the whole assembly. Spray the MAF from the filter side and let completely dry as per your instructions.

For idle relearn, just let your car idle for a few minutes (part of the time in park, and part of the time in gear). It will learn automatically.

Removing only one battery cable is enough.
I don't see IAT sensor from my car.

Also I attached some images and they may be helpful for others.:):):)

FYI:
http://www.performancechiptuning.com/guide.php
Ford Taurus 2000+ MAF: models from 2000 through 2002 and later, the IAT is integrated in the MAF sensor, which is installed in the air intake duct and has a 6 wires connector where is ford cars iat sensor information location. Colors you connected to: SOLID GREY and BLACK/WHITE
 

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:bunny:
 

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Your MAF is clean.
I assume I was robbed by the local shop which changed my MAF. Based on the found information, MAF failure on Taurus is NOT high and can be cleaned with CRC MAF cleaner. But I knew nothing about car at that time, yes, I still know a little about the car now. At least, I gradually gain knowledge through some wonderful people here.

Thank you all:):lol2:;)
 
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