Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello, I own a 1994 Ford Taurus with a 3.0 L V6 with fuel injection. Fuel pump went bad which I replaced. Also replaced the following:
-Plugs.
-Distributor cap and rotor.
-Plug wires.
-Ignition coil (insulation breaking down)
-Fuel filter.
I have good spark all cylinders, fuel pressure is at 39PSI. It will not start.
Spraying a small amount of fuel into the air intake throttle body and the engine starts for a couple of seconds. I flushed the fuel lines at the rail assembly and it made no difference. Removed the throttle body assembly and injectors. Cleaned, flushed and tested each injector to ensure fuel flow. Replaced injector O rings, air intake gasket, EGR gasket, and PCV value along with various hoses. Same results, will not start and spraying a fuel into throttle body and it comes to life.
Engine has less than 100K miles.
One concern I have that seems different is the electric cooling fan comes on when I turn on the ignition? I don't recall that before. Removed and inspected the integrated relay control mounted over top of the radiator and reinstalled. Made no difference.
Any suggestions?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,117 Posts
Have you tested the fuel pressure at the Schroeder valve in the fuel rail to be sure it is close to 39 psi after a few prime cycles of the fuel pump? Do you hear the fuel pump run its 1 to 2 second prime cycle every time the key is turned from OFF to RUN? FYI, you can run the fuel pump from the EEC IV TEST connector under the hood. Locate brown wire at one of the corners of the EEC IV TEST connector. Turn key to RUN. Jump brown wire to ground. Should hear FP relay click in the IRCM and pump should run continuously as long as the brown wire is grounded.

Probably 20 years ago, had a car with virtually zero fuel pressure but could hear pump prime. Dropped tank. Found rubber line from pump to pump flange had split wide open = no fuel pressure. New piece of submersible fuel line (several $$ a foot) fixed it right up.
 
  • Like
Reactions: kekaye56 and sheila

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Have you tested the fuel pressure at the Schroeder valve in the fuel rail to be sure it is close to 39 psi after a few prime cycles of the fuel pump? Do you hear the fuel pump run its 1 to 2 second prime cycle every time the key is turned from OFF to RUN? FYI, you can run the fuel pump from the EEC IV TEST connector under the hood. Locate brown wire at one of the corners of the EEC IV TEST connector. Turn key to RUN. Jump brown wire to ground. Should hear FP relay click in the IRCM and pump should run continuously as long as the brown wire is grounded.

Probably 20 years ago, had a car with virtually zero fuel pressure but could hear pump prime. Dropped tank. Found rubber line from pump to pump flange had split wide open = no fuel pressure. New piece of submersible fuel line (several $$ a foot) fixed it right up.

Yes, fuel pressure at Schroeder valve on the fuel rail is 39PSI. You are correct, it takes a couple of cranks, but the pressure comes right up and maintains. You can hear the fuel pump run, but once the pressure builds up shuts off. Each injector has been tested meter (approx 10 ohms each) and bench tested with 9 volt battery to insure they open and the cleaner flowed through. Voltage is present at each injector plug when the key is turned on. My gut tells me that I'm not getting fuel flow through the injectors, because if I spray a little fuel into the throttle body it starts up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Sorry Jeff K, I'm new to this forum and it looks like I replied to you within your own message. I'll repeat.

Yes, fuel pressure at Schroeder valve on fuel rail is 39 PSI. You are correct, it takes a couple of cranks, but the pressure comes right up and maintains. You can hear the fuel pump in the tank run, but once the pressure builds up it shuts off. Each injector reads approx 10 ohms and have been bench tested with a 9 volt battery to insure they open and cleaner flowed through. Voltage is present at each injector plug when the key is turned on. My gut tells me that I'm not getting fuel flow through the injectors, because if I spray a little fuel into the throttle body it starts up.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,117 Posts
OK, there is 12 V at the injectors. Good. That means the EEC power relay in the IRCM should be supplying 12 V to the PCM . You can see if the PCM is powered up by seeing if it will output codes. Have you tried a NOID light to see if the PCM is actually firing the injectors during cranking?

Might want to check if the PCM is supplying the 5 V reference voltage to the sensors. Easiest place to check this is at the TPS. Pull the connector and see if you have 5.0 V between the Orange (5 V VREF) and Black (signal return) If VREF isnt present at all the sensors, the engine will never run.

Good luck!
 
  • Like
Reactions: kekaye56 and sheila

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,036 Posts
OK '94 so the signal for injectors comes from the hall effect module in the distributor. Good call to use the NOID light on the injectors. No injector signal can come from the ignition module.
-chart-
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Good information, Thank you. Question: is the PCM located behind the glove compartment? If so, is it to the right hand side against the side wall or straight ahead above the blower motor? I have 2 boxes in the glove compartment on this 1994 Ford Taurus and my manual does not give any detailed information.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Noid light testing on injectors confirmed no pulsing from PCM. I have the following service codes: 564,558,565,552, and 552. Can these be cleared in order to see which codes return?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,117 Posts
To clear EEC IV codes by watching the CEL flash out the codes: Run KOEO test. After PCM starts outputting the codes (CEL flashes) exit the test. Codes will be erased. You can check to see if they have been erased by rerunning KOEO test which should result in "111" code output. If you have an EEC IV scan tool, the scan tool should have a way to clear the codes.

PIP (Hall effect pickup in distributor) is a relatively common failure on all EEC IV system. Failed PIP will result in fuel pump not running and injectors not firing. TFI failure resulting in no spark is also a common failure on EEC IV.
 
  • Like
Reactions: sheila

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Thanks. I'm using a analog volt meter to read the codes. KOEO test? Does this stand for: Key on Engine on? If so, the engine will not start. What options do I have to clear codes with no engine start?
Fuel pump is running (38 PSI) and I have good spark (engine comes to life with a little fuel sprayed into throttle body) but no Noid pulses on injectors. Can this still be the PIP in the distributor?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,036 Posts
All through '95 year use a distributer and hall effect trigger. Earlier had the ignition module fastened to the side of the dist. later in the firewall for cooler and less vibration location. I think the 3.8 put it in the firewall as my '92 and '95 had that. As I remember the 3.0 kept it on the dist. I had one double trigger flooding the engine. Also had one just quit dead on the road. If it is dead, no spark, no anything. Partial fail will do strange things, none good. Also had one get oil in the dist and that softened and ruined the wires.
-chart-
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I wanted to send a note of appreciation to the feed back and advice I received on the 1994 Ford Taurus that would not start after replacing the fuel pump. Pressure was good at 39 PSI, but the Noid light testing confirmed no pulsing from CPU. Spark was good, because a little fuel sprayed into the throttle body and the engine would come to life. Replacing the CPU corrected the injectors not pulsing. All error codes cleared. Replacing the Airbag sensor control module (on the right hand side of glove box) corrected the flashing dash airbag light. The vehicle will not pass the annual state inspection with the flashing light, and the error flashing light code was not helpful. Replacing the integrated relay control corrected the electric fan running constantly at high speed. I'm unsure why these electrical parts took a hit, but the airbag control board has various components fried on the board. Thanks again.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top