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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay purchased a 1993 SHO yesterday with 106K miles
as soon as i dove it home i noticed a lag in the acceleration.
i pulled out a plug and it was full of oil. all the valve stem seals were gone.

did the seals that day and put it all back together.

Now the car turns over and runs but it idles rough then stalls.
sounds like its misfiring and backfiring. not running on all cylinders?

I checked the plug order and its correct.
Tried getting codes out i cant find i good enough pic to see what pins need to be jumped

Im sure its something stupid i forgot to put back in i just need your help to make me remember.

Please, any input is greatly appreciated!
 

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Oil in the plug wells is not an indication of bad stem seals, it is an indication of bad valve cover gaskets. Did you replace the valve cover gasket?

Also did you replace the plugs and wires? If they are over 60k that that might be some of the problem.

What pattern are you using for the wire pattern? Some books are wrong. We have the pattern here with our shim work sheet: http://shosource.com/catalog/images/Documents/New_valvelashworksheet.pdf

Go here for pulling codes: EEC Self-Test Procedure :: SHOtimes FAQ :: Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) about the Ford Taurus SHO from the SHOTIMES mailing list.

Also is the big hose on the back of the intake hooked up?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Plug order was correct. we noticed it was stall out when given gas. checked the TPS, it was fine.
The ignition was cutting out and the tach was jumping. Seemed like a loose ground or coil? sat around and stared at it and when i tried again it fired up and idled?

its running now however not to full potential.
I can ease on the throttle gain speed but when i put it down to fast after a shift it "lags out" feels like its misfiring. lack of power.

I think the plug wires are due. any other suggestions?
 

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Did you replace the calve cover gaskets?

The IAB might be going bad or need to be cleaned. The DIS could be going bad as well. I would pull codes to check.

Could be old wires. We do have them here: http://shosource.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=61_43_47&products_id=43

Did you do a valve adjustment? I doubt its the problem but it is good to do.

What you are describing sounds like when I mixed up the wires. Is the hose to the throttle body hooked up?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Its running fine now. well as good as it was before i did the gaskets.
no more oil in the plugs.

Thanks alot for your help.
Ill do the plugs this week and see if that gets rid of the lagging acceleration.

car has 106K miles. i plan on driving it daily. any maintenance related things i should tune up before?
 

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Every 60k you need to do the following:
Plugs
Wires
Valve Adjustment
Valve cover gasket
Timing Belt

Many replace the water pump and CPS while doing the CPS.

To make removing the intake easy you can do the throttle body bypass.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Every 60k you need to do the following:
Plugs
Wires
Valve Adjustment
Valve cover gasket
Timing Belt

Many replace the water pump and CPS while doing the CPS.

To make removing the intake easy you can do the throttle body bypass.

Thanks for that info, im new with these cars so i had no idea.

Im going to adjust the valves this weekend. Should be interesting.

Also, what do you mean bypass the throttle body? ill take any info on making the intake easier to remove.

How about the timing? can that be checked and/or would it cause the symptoms my car has?
 

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You need a shim kit to adjust valves: SHO Source Shim Kit

Disconnect the coolant lines going to the intake and run a hose to connect the 2 ports coming out of the engine. Makes for a very easy intake removal.

It is very hard for the timing to come out. If it does it means you have crank cancer or a bad tensioner.

Also ATX or MTX?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Its an MTX

Im using to small Hondas with distributors, and when the timing is off im getting the same kind of feeling.

Plug wires came in today so ill get those on.

And also the shin kit, Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Okay I replaced the plug wires and still it's misfiring under open throttle.
Only thing I can think to do next is to clean out the ICV.
I'll try that next. I have a video to I'll get up of the ignition cutting out
But working fine when I ease on the gas.

Maybe fuel pump is going?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Checked codes.
538 (R) System did not receive "goose" test
521 (R) Wheel not turned during test or PSP problem - PSP


Dont know what these mean at all.


i noticed the car to do this more when its cold. throttle is very jerky and bogs out at lower rpm. gets better very fast but still it feel likes its misfiring when i put my foot down.

 

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Okay I replaced the plug wires and still it's misfiring under open throttle.
Only thing I can think to do next is to clean out the ICV.
I'll try that next. I have a video to I'll get up of the ignition cutting out
But working fine when I ease on the gas.

Maybe fuel pump is going?
Possibly. I would double check the wire path to be sure.

I would also check for vac leaks.

Checked codes.
538 (R) System did not receive "goose" test
521 (R) Wheel not turned during test or PSP problem - PSP


Dont know what these mean at all.


i noticed the car to do this more when its cold. throttle is very jerky and bogs out at lower rpm. gets better very fast but still it feel likes its misfiring when i put my foot down.

It means during the dynamic test you didn't perform as required. No big deal.

another thought, dirty injectors??
Maybe but rarely an issue.

You can try on SHOForum as well.
 
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