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Discussion Starter #1
Hey, decided to make a page about the progress im having on my 92 Turbo SHO build up. Right now its in the early stages but ill post every step of the way. It won't be done until Mid-Late July, and its only February, so theres a long way to go!

Right now I have this -











Its a Stock 1992 MTX SHO with 205k on the odometer that needs a tiny bit of work done to it.

Right now it has a new water pump, alternator, A/C system, Full 60k done to it ~20k miles ago.

Current work list -
- Weld hole in floorboard
- Fix rusted doglegs
- Fix e-brake cable
- Fix broken drivers side endlink
- Re-paint top/trunk of car (faded to white)
- Get new shifter bearings from Shosource (a little loose)
- Order moog springs and put them on new Monroe Sensa-trac struts and put them on car
- Get parts for the 11.6" brake upgrade and put them on the car
- Run Earls SS Brake lines around
- Put FSTB/RSTB on

after that its starting on the performance parts for the Turbo, Ill make that list later down the road.

Currently I have the RSTB in the garage, the FSTB is on the way in the mail. Tonight im ordering my Moog springs and rod shifter bearings.

Once it warms up a little bit and the salt is gone, its going to a body shop to get the doglegs fixed and floor board welded.

My uncle is a automotive teacher, so hes getting his class to mount my springs on the struts and struts on the car. Fix the broken endlink and the e-brake.

After that im going to put the rod-shifter bearings on so it will shift like new.

During this time im hunting down the parts for my 11.6" brakes, all I need are the spindles and calipers now. Brackets and bolts are coming soon. Once I have these ill order the SS brake lines.

Once all thats done, im taking it to my painter and having him match the paint and re-paint the top and anywhere else its faded to make it a solid jet black.

By then ill be well into saving up for my Turbo upgrade parts, and I have an installer set up to make my pipes and put the turbo in for me, along with taking care of the differential.

Theres also a local guy selling a 3.2 engine with rebuilt ATX tranny for 50k for only $200, im going to look into this today and see how the engine is, I might put that in before the Turbo goes on, but for having 205k, this 3.0 is VERY healthy.

More progress to come as it happens! :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Well sense the forums have been down alot of work has been done. Commin along just great!

The two front struts are done, brand new monroe sensa-trac with ebach's on them, and the back struts should be done some time this week!

My FSTB and RSTB are sitting in the garage, they will get put on as soon as the struts are all done.

I have all the parts for the 11.6" brake upgrade, got the 96+ caliper brackets, 94/95 Spindles and 94/95 Calipers. Ordering Hawk FPS pads this week, and finding some decent rotors.

My MTX Rod Shifter Bushings are in the mail as well, so those will cure the case of the sloppy shifting (I can get used to it, but I will probally end up blowing the engine first from a mis-shift =X)

After that, I met a friend locally from Shoforum whos good at welding, so he said he would be happy to fix my floorboard for me, so that takes care of that.

Then for a month or two thats going to be it until I order my stage 4 southbend clutch and get my differential pin welded, want to be able to brake the clutch in before the turbo goes in, and might as well do the diff. while the subframe is dropped.)

So far im 1/4 done saving up for the turbo parts and install, so as of right now im looking at late may early june to start it.

Oh, and monday, Somedude is taking me to his buddy's shop and were matching up what turbo I should get to the SHO engine, Im looking for a smaller turbo, somthing that will spool up quickly, giving me more instant power, and still be decent for top end. Alot of the turbos shine in top end, but im not making this to be a track car, just a fast, unique daily driver, I dont really think ill be doing 100+ that much (right now at least >_>)

I will get some pictures up as soon as the struts and springs are all in!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Eh, nothin too crazy. Lookin for ~350 WHP @ about 8-10 PSI, tryin to play it safe. Can always turn the boost up when I want too if I want to push it, but im pretty sure ill be happy with that for awhile. It would be making about 3x the WHP my GL makes, and I dont even push that to the limit :lol2:

Goin for somthin to have fun with, beat a few mustangs and beamers on the highway, have a little fun at the track, nothin serious though.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
QUOTE (dark_fire @ Mar 1 2009, 11:44 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=704448
Bore it to 3.2, add some lower comp pistons ~9.5:1 and 15+lbs of boost
:burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout::burnout:
http://videos.streetfire.net/video/turbo-t...gtoa_121028.htm[/b]
i was considering it, or just plain swapping a 3.2 in, but for now I dont need too, but I was considering forged pistons, and if I do decide to go that route then it will be bored to 3.2, along with 16ish lbs of boost, but then id also have to buy a quaife/wavetrac =X all the expenses of turning the boost up add up fast.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well went and talked to Alex (somedude)'s friend today and he matched up the turbo to what I wanted. It looks like im going with a GT-30 with ball bearings and external waste gate. It will be putting out just what I want at around 8-10 lbs of boost, with the option to go up to ~500 whp @ ~30 lbs of boost if I ever wanted too, good to have that option, but for now I dont need it.
 

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QUOTE (animex2 @ Mar 2 2009, 06:23 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=704722
Well went and talked to Alex (somedude)'s friend today and he matched up the turbo to what I wanted. It looks like im going with a GT-30 with ball bearings and external waste gate. It will be putting out just what I want at around 8-10 lbs of boost, with the option to go up to ~500 whp @ ~30 lbs of boost if I ever wanted too, good to have that option, but for now I dont need it.[/b]
I think mike said that turbo will support upto 500 crank hp not wheel. either way it should have excellent response for your car.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Right now I have my parts list for what I need to buy to get this done, ill post prices later if asked, but here it is -

- Stage 3 South Bend Clutch
- 255 LPH Fuel Pump
- 48 Lb Accel Injectors
- GT-30
- Blow off valve
- external wastegate
- turbo piping
- Any decent Intercooler
- TwEEcer R/T
- Fuel Regulator
- Wideband 02 Sensor
- Boost Gauge
- 80mm MAF

Gotta talk to Nick (HotRodKid from shoforum) to see when he will be ready to start, but i can start buying the piping and turbo itself by the end of april, and by the time all the custom fab is done and the turbo itself is installed, i can buy the tweecer and all the fuel upgrade parts, pop those in, tune it, then its all set =)

Right now the 3 gauges I have in the pod are Engine temp, Oil Pressure and a not as advanced A/F Ratio reader. Gonna yank the engine temp gauge and hook the dash back up (it was disconnected for engine temp) and put the Boost gauge in its place, Keep the oil pressure gauge, and swap out the A/F ratio reader for one that comes with the Wideband o2's
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Quick update -

The Ebachs/Monroes were installed last friday, but theres one thing I forgot to do...

...

New strut bearings! :slap:

so theres a loud grinding noise whenever I turn the steering wheel, oh well.

In a week or two Alex will be helping me install my 11.6" brake upgrade, where at that time we will also be replacing the strut bearings.

Tomorrow im going to get a quote from a rust repair shop for the 2 rear doglegs and the hole in the floorboard, hopefully it wont be too much.

Thursday the e-brake is getting fixed and the car is getting inspected!

then Monday its going to be on the road!

Pictures of the car lowered tomorrow! (its not lowered by much, but is noticeable)
 

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:lurk:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Pics!

Like i said, its lowered, but not by that much, mabye an inch at most. But after the springs break in a little bit its gonna look sick B)





Oh, did I mention I need to get both quarter panels replaced along with the floor boards?



yeah, thats going to get done in a week or two, going around and getting quotes. i want to get it now before it gets any worse.

and thats the little update!
 

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To be totally honest, I would have started with a different body...but props to you for fixing it up :thumb: Replacing rear quarters isn't cheap (and it definitely isn't minor surgery) , so make sure you get someone who will do it right the first time.

With that much bodywork going on, I'd just get the whole thing painted when all the rust is fixed. Are you planning on actually having the entire floor panels cut out and replaced with rust-free ones or patching the existing ones? Having seen the hole in the driver's floor, take a good look at the rear subframe mounts as well and make sure they're still solid. If it's really the whole floor plus the rear quarters that need to be replaced, I would probably start looking for a rust-free (or at least close) non-runner and transplant your drivetrain, new suspension, and hood - it would likely be cheaper then having the rust fixed if it's that bad, even if you had the replacement shell painted the same. Might even get a 3.2 out of that plan too...blown tranny SHO = cheap.

Just throwing out ideas :)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Im weighing out all my options right now, and rating them on cost and amount of work.

Everything else with the car is in great condition, besides the quarter panels and the floor board hole.

Ive found a few rust-free bodies with blown engines/trans etc for fairly cheap but then doing an entire drivetran swap, possible MTX conversion, and interior swap sucks. So thats going to cost between 600-1000 depending on how much the body is, be an assload of work, and possibly even more depending how much gas its going to suck up to get the body towed home.

If I fix the quarter panels, I got a shop that quoted me for 800, but thats the trunk too. I could just find a junkyard trunk or even use the one on my GL for now, im not worried about the little rust patch on the trunk at all, I could fix that myself if I wanted. So it will be about 600 for both quarter panels, unpainted, just replaced and primed. A very fair price in my opinion, and so far 0 work done by myself. Then just patch up the hole in the floorboard for now, or even cut out a section from another G2 and weld it over it, either way its not that bad and fairly cheap. Only drawbacks there are the rust may come back, but the place guarantees its work for a few years. I need to get the roof and the trunk repainted anyway (faded) so ill just throw the quarter panels in then too (the place wanted another $600 to repaint them!)

All the mounts and everything is in great shape too be honest, and the body is structurally sound for the moment.

I think im going to stick with the repairs, and who knows, in 2 or 3 years down the road if the rust comes back or gets much worse, then ill just swap everything over, but at the moment, the shell will be fine after the repairs.

Ill get some pictures of the interior tomorrow or next week, but I cant stress how perfect of a shape the interior is in. No rips, burn holes, never been smoked in, no cracks or anything.

And the engine has been maintained religiously sense day 1, I guarantee if you rode in it without knowing the mileage, and I asked, you would guess about half of what it has on it. Everything under the hood is brand new within the past 20-30k miles besides the engine and transmission itself!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
haha thats true, mabye I should pick one up later this summer.

But like I said, the trunk rusting is the LEAST of my worries.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Update

As of right now, I found a rust free body for sale, it looks like im going to be picking that up in about 2 weeks, emerald green!

Do a complete interior swap and drivetrain swap. It has a blown ATX so gotta do a few mods too add the 3rd pedal as well.

After it gets done though, overall i will be alot better off. Perfect body, Perfect Interior, Great condition Drivetrain.

+

Emerald green exterior with black interior = sex imo
 
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