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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
General question about losing PS fluid in my 1991 Taurus 3.0 sedan. I think it's coming from the area of the Power Steering pump. If so, how much would you say is the general cost of removal and replacement for another Power Steering Pump?

I suppose it could be a hose but it doesn't look like it. Any quotes would be helpful......Thanks.
 

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Of you doing it yourself or having someone do it? I'm not sure about your car or engine but I had to remove one on a 00 3.0 vulcan and it's really easy being right on top.

You will need a pulley puller which most auto parts stores will rent to you for free, you pay for it and get money back when you return it. Also need to take the serp belt off which I used a gear wrench serp belt tool for that you can also rent. If you have a basic socket set and wrenches and buy a manual and rent the special tools it's really pretty easy and can save you some cash.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I did find this on line. The only problem I would see would be removing and replacing those hydraulic pressure and return lines. Anything special about these, a caution maybe. According to this it doesn't mention any special pullers. ?? I am fairly mechanical but I just don't want to get in over my head on this one.

How to Replace the Power Steering Pump on a 1991 Ford Taurus | eHow.com
 

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My old 1990 slowly leaked ps fluid since it was brand new. It's common for weepage of oil at the high pressure fitting on the pump body (the larger fitting.) Try a new O-ring there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm not 100% sure where that high pressure fitting is on the Taurus. Location? Maybe the Advanced Auto or library would have a book or pic on this? Would you have a suggestion to a picture? Any help to save the 200 bucks or so is appreciated. Thank you.
 

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I'm not 100% sure where that high pressure fitting is on the Taurus. Location? Maybe the Advanced Auto or library would have a book or pic on this? Would you have a suggestion to a picture? Any help to save the 200 bucks or so is appreciated. Thank you.
I don't have experience with your engine specifically but I had to pull the pulley off on the one I did. The high pressure line is just the line going from the pump to the rack and then you have a return line also. Nothing really special about them except a flare wrench will help with not stripping the nut if they are stuck on there good. I would give them a couple soak downs with PB blaster for a day or two before you do the repair to loosen things up.

My local library has alldata on their computers so you could go look it up and see the step by step with pictures if yours has a auto repair program also. I use my cell phone to just take pictures of the screens. They also have about 3-400 repair manuals you can check out. And if not you can pick one up for under 20 bucks usually and they are good to have anyway. I buy one for each vehicle I have and when I work on family's vehicles I make them buy one for me.

I would say you can do it pretty easy. You can rent the special puller for free if needed. The only thing you would have to buy would be a decent flare wrench set, unless you can borrow one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
My mechanic I've known for 20 years told me that it was 4 hours labor to replace the power steering pump. The pump was bolted to an engine mount and took excessive time to remove. That was a listed labor quote and I trust him, always did. ??
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok. I found out today why I am losing all that power steering fluid. It's the high pressure line that wraps from the power steering pump, around the engine, and all way down towards the bottom of the firewall. What a hassle just to replace that line and yes you have to replace both of them at the same time. So that's where the 3 to 4 hours labor comes in. It's the pump as I first thought and luckily I have an honest mechanic who pointed it right out to me, and is not replacing the pump which would have done nothing.

Why did Ford design these power steering lines so damn complex as to wrap them all around and under the engine? This is no easy job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
In that one sentence I meant "it's not the pump". You could see the fluid squirting out of the line near the bottom of the firewall. Actually, fluid squirting all over in that area. Dangerous I would say also. Not a cheap job with the 3 to 4 hours labor with parts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Can the hose being taped or is the only option to replace it? Sorry for the overload of questions, but this looks like a $350 job.
 

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Can the hose being taped or is the only option to replace it? Sorry for the overload of questions, but this looks like a $350 job.
The high pressure hose can not be taped, to much pressure to hold. Most pumps are 500-1000 PSI and will blow right threw tape.

I don't think you can even splice the high pressure line.

So the line is rusted threw by the fire wall?

The line looks to be 30-35 bucks from rockauto.com. Not sure how it's routed but I wouldn't think it would be to hard. But you will need a jack, jack stands, flare wrenches and some other tools.

I don't have a ford manual that goes back to 91. But I know my local library has alldata, a very nice repair manual on their computers. It will tell you exactly how to do the repair with pics. It will also tell you the hours it should take. Might want to see if your library also has this and then you can see if it's a repair you feel comfortable with or at least check to see if your mechanic is being honest.
 

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The time to replace the hose probably reflects what it takes to remove various under-hood components to gain access to the connection to the power steering rack, filling and bleeding the system.

It wouldn't be a tough DIY if you had the time, tools and desire.
 

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If you just need the lines, it's not a bad job at all. A number of components you'll need to remove/set aside or unplug such as the battery and intake snorkel. Mostly some electrical connectors in the way. Have some good tape on hand to cover up the ends of the liunes when you remove them (aluminum maybe). The fluid will drip and spray easily out the openings as you flex the lines to remove them. There's 1 bracket that holds the lines down on top of the ATX. You'll need standard open ended wrenches, and new o'rings. Try to buy the o-rings from ford, they fit better and are less likely to leak.

If you work as slow as I do :lol: probably could do the job in 3 hours.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
You guys have given me some great suggestions on this forum. I have to admit that this job is over my head. I am car mechanical but I'll have to bite the bullet and just pay my mechanic on this one. I know it will be done right.

1. I totally trust my mechanic as I have known him for over 20 years and he has always been straight, honest and up front with me. Charged me even less than labor costs on some jobs.

2. I buy he and some other mechanics pizza and beer every holiday to keep them happy.

3. I also send him biz at times from other friends, so that kind of relates to number one.

4. Finally, it's really tough to find a local shop you can actually trust...compared to places like a Dealer, Goodyear, Firestone, or Midas. Hope I didn't insult anyone. Just being honest. Some places would just replace the pump and the lines and charge me over $700.

Thanks to all. I'll let you know how it turns out.
 

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Been there and done that. My old 90 had a weep in the high pressure line.
Its not brain surgery to change, but you will get your knukkles bumped

You can go to the upull yard and get the hoses cheaper

It will also be helpful to have stubby metric wrenches to get the fittings
off the rack.

as far as the pump goes, you can easily put seals on it rather than replace it
Last time i did it, i got the seal kit from the ford dealer
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
If you just need the lines, it's not a bad job at all. A number of components you'll need to remove/set aside or unplug such as the battery and intake snorkel. Mostly some electrical connectors in the way. Have some good tape on hand to cover up the ends of the liunes when you remove them (aluminum maybe). The fluid will drip and spray easily out the openings as you flex the lines to remove them. There's 1 bracket that holds the lines down on top of the ATX. You'll need standard open ended wrenches, and new o'rings. Try to buy the o-rings from ford, they fit better and are less likely to leak.

If you work as slow as I do :lol: probably could do the job in 3 hours.
Bull Geek, So based on your experience, what would you estimate the removal and replacement time to put the new lines in? 3 or 4 hours.......Thanks.
 

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Bull Geek, So based on your experience, what would you estimate the removal and replacement time to put the new lines in? 3 or 4 hours.......Thanks.
Heres what i would advise you do. to make your life a whole lot easier, you need more clearance. so you need to take a few items out of the way.
take off the electric cooling fan from the radiator. That will buy you some space to maneuver the lines. Take off the air box line to the UIM.
The hoses run that direction an you will need the space.

beg borrow or steal short stubby metric wrenches to get the lines off the rack and radiator. Harbor freight has some reasonable. put plenty of paper or pans under the car because your going to make a mess.

If you have never done it before and have the right tools, 3 or 4 hours is
not unreasonable.
 
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