Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
887 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I just bought the car so I don't know a lot about it other than it was hard to start until I changed the spark plugs, plug wires, and crankshaft position sensor. The car had been sitting for a while and the battery was dead. I added acid to the half empty battery, and added some gas, and was able to get the car cranked.

When I put the car on the road, I found that the car would stall, but would not die. I would press the accelerator and the RPMs would not rise, but did not fall either.

Hopefully I am making an accurate correlation here when I am guessing that the 2 are relative:
On my way to work this morning, I had several occurences of pressing the accelerator, and RPMs not rising or falling, and the car appeared to be coasting, which seemed awefully similar to running out of gas.

I could turn the ignition off with the car in neutral, then re-start the car, put it into drive and the car would pull again. It would drive as normal, then would repeat the process of seeming as though it was out of gas.

The fuel light does not come on when this happens. I made it all the way to work, and upon turning into the drive at work, the fuel light came on.

I had an errand to run, so I left work and went to the gas station to fill up. Upon leaving the gas station, the car drove as normal, with no stalls.

Is this car running out of gas with gas in the tank? Are the P0411 and P0402 contributing to the way this car is running? Is there a way to drain the tank without completely dropping the tank to make sure that water or some other substance is not in the tank (it has been sitting for a while - you just never know what is really in the tank).

I put some Seafoam in the tank 2 fill-ups ago. Will/does this affect the computer? Is it possible that the computer read the Seafoam as non-gas and thinks that it is empty?

What are some other causes for this car to think it is out of gas when the gauge says there is 1/8 of a tank. Otherwise, it seems that the gauge is accurate.

Edit**
Added because this may be helpful:
The car is from the north where it snows and salt was put on the roads. The salt was never cleaned from the car and there is a good bit of corrosion. Is there something that could possibly be corroded that would cause this problem?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,584 Posts
Fuel tanks are notoriously inaccurate on these cars.

The car may also have a accumulated a large amount of water in the tank from condensation, or bad gas stations.

You should consider a routine of adding dry gas to 1/4 tank, running down to the empty mark, then refilling to 1/2 tank. and repeating the dry gas at 1/4, refilling at empty, etc about 6 times.

This should hopefully get rid of a lot of the water in your gas tank.

A bad VSS (vehicle speed sensor) may cause similar problems.

And, the Synchro Shaft and CPS (camshaft position sensor) have a service life 100K miles and will cause drivability problems if not replaced on time.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,686 Posts
Try putting some fuel line antifreeze in the tank for a few fillups - basically all it does it remove water from the fuel, so if you have water in the tank, it should help get it out.

Since you say it seems to be fine after you filled up, i'd think your gauge isn't accurate. See how it is after you've been driving it a while and run some gas line antifreeze thru it. Some of these cars have issues with bad fuel sending units that can make the gauge read incorrectly, and poor quality fuel with too much sulphur in it is one of the causes of this.

P0402 is usually caused by a failed DPFE sensor, so replace that. P0411 has to do with the secondary air injection system, which is another part of your emissions control. Sorry i can't help more, but i can't get into the ford website at the moment to find more info on that code, but if you google it, i'm sure you'll be able to find something.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
280 Posts
Ya, every time I start my car, the needle appears to be slightly lower then when I turned it off.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,686 Posts
<div class='quotemain'>
And, the Synchro Shaft and CPS (camshaft position sensor) have a service life 100K miles and will cause drivability problems if not replaced on time.
[/b]
I replaced the crankshaft position sensor already. I haven't got a code for the Syncro Shaft. Will I/should I?
[/b][/quote]
You won't get a code for the synchro itself, since it's a mechanical part. You'd get a code related to the sensor, since the worn shaft will eventually damage the sensor. Usually, you'll hear the synchro start to chirp/squeak before it takes the sensor out, but not always. There are write-ups on how to replace it yourself if you search.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
887 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
The stalling got worse yesterday with a full tank, so I am going to say that the 2 (fuel & stalling) are not related.

In an effort to clear the P0402 code, I am going to get the DPFE sensor as instructed in this thread and I am going to follow the instructions in this thread.

Has anyone known the DPFE sensor to cause stalling? I replaced the synchro shaft when I replaced the crankshaft position sensor (it all came together) so this should not be causing my problem.

What else could be causing this stalling or do you expect that the DPFE will fix my codes and stalling problems?

I am beginning to wonder if the Autozone synchro shaft and crankshaft position sensor went bad. It was stalling before I changed them. Right after I changed them, the stalling stopped, then it just started again.

I guess I will see if the car will make it back to Autozone to see if the code for the CPS comes up.



Here's a list of the stuff that I have done to this car that has been sitting almost a year, that is from the north and is corroded from the bottom side due to road salt:
Added acid to the battery
Bosch Oxygen Sensor
Camshaft Position Sensor & Synchro
Fuel Filter
2 cans of rust treatment ( for underside)
TorqFlo Idler Pulley
Dayco Belt Tensioner
Motocraft Plus
Duralast Wire set
Replaced brake lines
Replaced calipers
Replaced sway bar link
Oil pan gasket
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
887 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
After reviewing my receipts for parts I've bought for this car and comparing them with the receipts from the previous owner, I find that I am duplicating work that was already done.

I suspect that the road salt is attacking this car. I have began calling local shops to see if they will allow me to steam the underside of this car while on their lift. I need to neutralize the salt before I put any more new parts on this car. I feel like this is a priority, otherwise I will be wasting my time in labor and my money on parts.

Any other suggestions on how I can neutralize the road salt and help slow or stop the rust without getting water where it does not belong? I am open to suggestions.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,557 Posts
After reviewing my receipts for parts I've bought for this car and comparing them with the receipts from the previous owner, I find that I am duplicating work that was already done.

I suspect that the road salt is attacking this car. I have began calling local shops to see if they will allow me to steam the underside of this car while on their lift. I need to neutralize the salt before I put any more new parts on this car. I feel like this is a priority, otherwise I will be wasting my time in labor and my money on parts.

Any other suggestions on how I can neutralize the road salt and help slow or stop the rust without getting water where it does not belong? I am open to suggestions.
[/b]
Well being from the north, around here they have car washes that will do an underbody wash. You probably don't have that where you are, but if you have those self serve car washes, maybe you can get the wand underneath the car. Road salt isn't that big a problem, rustproofing has been pretty good lately. I remember I had a 12 year old car from the mid 80's that only had minimal rust.

My only other thought about the stalling would be perhaps a weak fuel pump.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,073 Posts
My friend just got a Red 93 ATX SHO, said it ran great, but when idling the RPM's would go crazy and sometimes the car would stall.

Have you checked the vaccum line for any disconnected hoses or leaks?

I told him to do that, he found one, replaced it, been running perfect.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
887 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
<div class='quotemain'>
After reviewing my receipts for parts I've bought for this car and comparing them with the receipts from the previous owner, I find that I am duplicating work that was already done.

I suspect that the road salt is attacking this car. I have began calling local shops to see if they will allow me to steam the underside of this car while on their lift. I need to neutralize the salt before I put any more new parts on this car. I feel like this is a priority, otherwise I will be wasting my time in labor and my money on parts.

Any other suggestions on how I can neutralize the road salt and help slow or stop the rust without getting water where it does not belong? I am open to suggestions.
[/b]
Well being from the north, around here they have car washes that will do an underbody wash. You probably don't have that where you are, but if you have those self serve car washes, maybe you can get the wand underneath the car. Road salt isn't that big a problem, rustproofing has been pretty good lately. I remember I had a 12 year old car from the mid 80's that only had minimal rust.

My only other thought about the stalling would be perhaps a weak fuel pump.
[/b][/quote]

When I was in the National Guard, the Unit had a rack you could drive their vehicles on and wash the bottom of the vehicle with a big fire hose. That is the only time I have ever seen anything of the sorts. While a car wash might have a wand to wash off the underneath, and I may get some salt off the undercarriage, that will not neutralize the rust or stop the rust.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
887 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Well, I just changed the DPFE sensor and took the car for a ride. So far, no stalling and no engine light. Will report back if there are any problems.
[/b]
Okay, I took the car out last night and today. The check engine light came on today and the car starting stalling, around noon when the temperature outside got up to 65 or 70. That's when I began to wonder if there is a correlation between the temperature outside and stalling.

Then I thought I heard the high pitched sound of a vacuum leak. Is it possible to get the EGR codes from a vacuum leak? What is the easiest way to find a vacuum that I can hear but I don't know where it is?
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top