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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As promised in my cylinder head thread, pictures:





(Like my ported LIM?)

Changing valve springs on-engine is a huge PITA, especially for FWD cars. There is no room for working on the rear bank. The springs are Howards Cams 98411, with Comp Cams 740-16 retainers, and Comp 632-16 keepers. The keepers are for a Chevy LS1/LS6, but they'll fit our valves fine. They sit slightly higher on the valve than stockers, so I'm not sure what the install height of the valve springs are, so I don't know what the seat pressure is. Judging by the spring rate, though, I think the seat pressure is around what our stock valve's open pressure is. Since we have a roller cam stock, the higher pressure should be fine, but we'll see. Exhaust leak's fixed, so next stop is a chassis dyno tune.

-Dan
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
1.8, and you don't know what the spring height is...good luck.
Thanks. The keepers sit max ten thousandths higher than stock, so maybe 1.571 instead of 1.57. I did the math, and I had a perfect .060 safety before coil bind at max lift, so setting the spring a little higher will only help.

are you planing on a zinc filled oil or a detergent type of motor oil for break in?
Already did. Rockers were installed about 400 miles ago, but the valve springs went on today. Still running the break-in oil for another hundred miles or so.
 

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Thanks. The keepers sit max ten thousandths higher than stock, so maybe 1.571 instead of 1.57. I did the math, and I had a perfect .060 safety before coil bind at max lift, so setting the spring a little higher will only help.



Already did. Rockers were installed about 400 miles ago, but the valve springs went on today. Still running the break-in oil for another hundred miles or so.

you should stick with the zinc. just read a good article on push rod motors and the zinc fighting with the detergents for a space. zinc forms a lubercant around metal most of all push rod cam shafts. but is know to wreck cattalic converters. with the higher emmission standards they are removing zinc from mordren oils. which the new oils are know to wreck cam shafts on break in and after break in. but is a choise you will have to make.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
you should stick with the zinc. just read a good article on push rod motors and the zinc fighting with the detergents for a space. zinc forms a lubercant around metal most of all push rod cam shafts. but is know to wreck cattalic converters. with the higher emmission standards they are removing zinc from mordren oils. which the new oils are know to wreck cam shafts on break in and after break in. but is a choise you will have to make.
Really? Post the article? I was wondering about that myself. I was looking for just a zinc additive, since I changed my oil about 700 miles prior to the rocker install, but I couldn't find any. What would the actual harm be in running a break-in oil all the time?
 

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Really? Post the article? I was wondering about that myself. I was looking for just a zinc additive, since I changed my oil about 700 miles prior to the rocker install, but I couldn't find any. What would the actual harm be in running a break-in oil all the time?
i will see if i can find it on line. it was a hand out from an instructor
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Not a bad read, but a little irrelevant. We have a hydraulic roller cam, so we have a ton less friction and wear than a flat-tappet cam, and I think by the time we start modding these cars, the engine has been LONG since broken in. I think I'll switch back to a synthetic after the break-in period.
 

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Not a bad read, but a little irrelevant. We have a hydraulic roller cam, so we have a ton less friction and wear than a flat-tappet cam, and I think by the time we start modding these cars, the engine has been LONG since broken in. I think I'll switch back to a synthetic after the break-in period.

not to irrelevant the part on wear. this is why you should test the spring pressure before and after. they sell a spring seat pressure tester at summit racing if you need the model numbers tell me. ya even on the flat tappet engines they suggest in the article to switch to a synthetic after break in. so the motor oil does not break down from a high heat condition.
 

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Thanks. The keepers sit max ten thousandths higher than stock, so maybe 1.571 instead of 1.57. I did the math, and I had a perfect .060 safety before coil bind at max lift, so setting the spring a little higher will only help.



Already did. Rockers were installed about 400 miles ago, but the valve springs went on today. Still running the break-in oil for another hundred miles or so.


check those number again for the ohc motor the installed height should be 1.57 for the ohv motor 1996-1999 should be 1.58 or for the 2000 and later should be 1.650 to 1.736 bolth un installed should be 1.84 inches just a suggestion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
check those number again for the ohc motor the installed height should be 1.57 for the ohv motor 1996-1999 should be 1.58 or for the 2000 and later should be 1.650 to 1.736 bolth un installed should be 1.84 inches just a suggestion.
Good call. 1.57 is OHC and 1.58 is OHV. My machinist said the valves sat at the perfect factory height after he did the valve job, but for some reason I recall a 1.57 thrown around. I hope he knew what he was doing...
 

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I'd be more worried about compression height and binding, just because it has a correct installed height does not mean it will not bind/over compress, especially if they are of a thicker diameter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I'd be more worried about compression height and binding, just because it has a correct installed height does not mean it will not bind/over compress, especially if they are of a thicker diameter.
I appreciate you assuming I have no idea what I'm doing. At the stock install height (which I thought was 1.57) I would have .052 until coil bind. These springs bind at 1.050, and max lift on an unworn cam is .260 (both int & exh) x1.8 = .468 lift at the valve. If I were running it at 1.57, then I'd be sitting at a healthy 1.102. It's recommended to leave .060 before coil bind, but if my car isn't ever seeing 6k RPM, I don't think I'm in too much danger. But if the install height is 1.58, then I'm at .062 before coil bind, making it ok. Add the couple thousandths I gained from positioning the retainer higher on the valve with the LS1 locks, then I'm beyond safe. Not to mention at 160k miles, I don't think my cam lobes are a perfect .260.
 

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I appreciate you assuming I have no idea what I'm doing.
You assume that I assume you didn't know, I never SAID you didn't know. Trust me, if I didn't think you knew, I certainly would have SAID that. People are pc's nowadays(you've seen the commercials?) I'm a fucking betamax, gonna tell you what you need to hear, not what you think you need to hear. And windows 7 was NOT my idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
You assume that I assume you didn't know, I never SAID you didn't know. Trust me, if I didn't think you knew, I certainly would have SAID that. People are pc's nowadays(you've seen the commercials?) I'm a fucking betamax, gonna tell you what you need to hear, not what you think you need to hear. And windows 7 was NOT my idea.
Fair enough. And not to be confrontational, but why do I need to hear your second-guessings? A year ago, I didn't know how to change my own brakes, and now I've ported, prepped and installed my own pair of heads, followed by an in-engine valve spring change. While it's not big news to somebody who mods on a regular basis, I'm proud of what I've accomplished. And for all the new members who's first car is a bull, and the first question is "I see a fast car going down the street, and then I look at mine. How do I become less embarrassed?" it shows what can be done when you get serious.

But we'll see how worthwhile this project was once it's on the dyno.
 

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How much modification is required to install the 1.8 rockers ? Also, Will the stock springs hold up to them or will they need to be changed out? Not going to be revving the motor past 6k. Just looking to add some pep to the vulcanator.
 
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