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Discussion Starter #1
Hi my trans cooler line connector is rusted and leaking. I'm trying to take the line off the connector (at the radiator) I have my tool seated all the way but cannot get the line to release. I'm looking for any tips that could help release the line from the connector. Thank you.
 

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1998 Ford Taurus SE 3.0 OHV
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Oh man, sounds like you're in the "rust belt". I'm sure you've tried the usual PB Blaster and stuff like that. You can also try a little heat from a torch, provided you keep it away from the plastic. Other than that, you can either try and shock it loose by hitting the tool with a hammer (I personally don't recommend), or cutting the lines and replacing with new ones as the last option, depending on your $$ situation. I'm sure somebody will chime in with other ideas though, buddy. Hang in there, and good luck!
 

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Lol thank you. It's frustrating that a simple task is being such a pain. And yes it's extremely rusty. I can move the line around it just won't come out. And finding a new whole line and connector seems like a task too. Don't seem that available or I'm looking in the wrong places.
 

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I'm sure space is limited! As far as trying to find it, try looking on car-part.com for your part. I'm not sure exactly where to look from there though as they don't have that specific part listed, I'm hoping somebody else chimes in here, as they will have a place to look. Summit I believe has the cooling lines, but I may be mistaken. Maybe AutoZone might, but they always make me nervous with their parts. Parts+ isn't bad for hoses if you have one in your area and of course Napa. I've rarely had a problem with a Napa part!
 

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Sometimes dirt will collect in the spring that holds the pipe in place. I try to blow it out with compressed air but then spray with brake cleaner and then penetrating oil. Then insert tool to spread the spring.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sometimes dirt will collect in the spring that holds the pipe in place. I try to blow it out with compressed air but then spray with brake cleaner and then penetrating oil. Then insert tool to spread the spring.
That's currently been my best method. I think you're right with the dirt
 

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See, I just knew somebody would come along with a better idea than I had!
 

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Try not to use brake cleaner solvent, I used that at the PS pump connector and it caused the rubber O ring in the swivel joint to leak. Use adjustable wrench to remove the hex fitting at the radiator, then you can have more room to remove the cooling line out of the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Try not to use brake cleaner solvent, I used that at the PS pump connector and it caused the rubber O ring in the swivel joint to leak. Use adjustable wrench to remove the hex fitting at the radiator, then you can have more room to remove the cooling line out of the car.
Do you know what size wrench? I was thinking about using a crowsfeet to get it off.
 

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May try pushing the line in before inserting the tool and pulling. Many on here have just replaced the metal line with atf/ps hose, barbs and clamps.
 

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Do you know what size wrench? I was thinking about using a crowsfeet to get it off.
Not sure you want to remove that fitting because it screws into the cooler and engine coolant will pour out, I replaced those fittings because on an aftermarket radiator the fittings leaked and after two warranty replacements I installed the OEM fittings into aftermarket radiator to fix the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Not sure you want to remove that fitting because it screws into the cooler and engine coolant will pour out, I replaced those fittings because on an aftermarket radiator the fittings leaked and after two warranty replacements I installed the OEM fittings into aftermarket radiator to fix the issue.
I drained all the coolant. The fitting is all rusted and leaking. That's what I need to replace.
 

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Both of these fit, not having luck w either. Do you know which one is the correct size?
The largest on that fits in the pipe corrects is the one you want to use. I attached a few pics of connectors I replaced. It they are leaking than there is an o ring inside that can be replaced instead of the connector. Those two plastic tabs need to be spread apart so the ridge on the tube can pass through them. I wouldn't use a aftermarket one based on my experience with them leaking. You may want to just replace the o rings. My tools may have thicker sides to the tool and a little heavier duty.

IMG_2937.jpg
IMG_2938.jpg
IMG_2940.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The largest on that fits in the pipe corrects is the one you want to use. I attached a few pics of connectors I replaced. It they are leaking than there is an o ring inside that can be replaced instead of the connector. Those two plastic tabs need to be spread apart so the ridge on the tube can pass through them. I wouldn't use a aftermarket one based on my experience with them leaking. You may want to just replace the o rings. My tools may have thicker sides to the tool and a little heavier duty.

View attachment 216180 View attachment 216181 View attachment 216182
Thank you what a big help sir thank you.

do you have a pic of the tool you used?
 
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