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On eBay a manufactured PCM with 2 uncut keys is $200. Apparently it is even made VIN specific for you, whatever that means.
 

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Its just hard right now because I have to drive myself to the doctor 4 times a week.
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I know driving it like this is terrible but i have no choice right now.
As long as you didn't solve the spark problem in cylinders 3 & 4 you might take off the connectors of their injectors and losen their spark plugs.

Then you have an engine with 4 cylinders that are a bit out of balance but it may run much better since it is not slowed down by the non-productive compression cycles of 3 & 4.

Besides it is probably much better for your cats.
 

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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
Hey guys, sorry i have been so busy trying to figure out this situation but i figured i would at least post back with the results of whats going on. I ended up taking the taurus to a mechanic down the road from me and he says that the PCM is bad. He said he tested everything else in the ignition system and that the PCM is bad, just wtaht i was scared of, but hes not a ford dealership so he cant program one for me.

I only have one key to the car, im not sure how much harder that will make things. But now i am either finding out whether i can swap a PCM and get new keys for a decent price or if my car is just scrap metal now. If anybody has done this before and knows the best way to do this please let me know., I am extremely weary of all these random website that claim they sell programmed PCMs with keys. Id like to have a reputable place to buy it. Ford dealership said they want like $600 for a new PCM and that doesnt even include labor. Thats insane. It would be like $1000 for them to plug in a PCM
 

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Discussion Starter · #84 ·
On eBay a manufactured PCM with 2 uncut keys is $200. Apparently it is even made VIN specific for you, whatever that means.
i am going to look at that. I have just heard to be weary of ebay PCMs but maybe i can find someone reputable. gonna look right now
 

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Discussion Starter · #85 ·
As long as you didn't solve the spark problem in cylinders 3 & 4 you might take off the connectors of their injectors and losen their spark plugs.

Then you have an engine with 4 cylinders that are a bit out of balance but it may run much better since it is not slowed down by the non-productive compression cycles of 3 & 4.

Besides it is probably much better for your cats.
this is a great idea. As far as the injectors go, i know the PCM shuts the injectors off when it doesnt get the groundback pulse so cyulinders 3 and 4 shouldnt need unplugged right? Or should i just unplug them anyway? And how much should i loosed the plugs? Just get it in fingertight?
 

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this is a great idea. As far as the injectors go, i know the PCM shuts the injectors off when it doesnt get the groundback pulse so cyulinders 3 and 4 shouldnt need unplugged right? Or should i just unplug them anyway? And how much should i loosed the plugs? Just get it in fingertight?
You might be right that the PCM is smart enough to switch off the injectors. After all, it DOES know there is no spark for 3 & 4. But it surely doesn't hurt.

Regarding the spark plugs: I never did such a thing myself, but if the spark plugs are all the way in they slow down the engine and if they are out they don't slow the engine but dirt might be sucked into the cylinder. If you put them in fingertight you might hear a hissing sound when the cylinder compresses air through the threads of the spark plug. I would loosen them pretty much (and clean their threads so air can pass) because cylinders 3 and 4 are just pumping air around and preferably not into the exhaust because that might confuse the Oxygen Sensors (they detect an oxygen level that is too high).

There is no spark on cylinders 3 & 4 anyway so I would temporarily take out their spark plug wires.

Now this is all theory and definitely not the recommended way to operate the car but better than they way you drive it now.
 

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I only have one key to the car, im not sure how much harder that will make things. But now i am either finding out whether i can swap a PCM and get new keys for a decent price or if my car is just scrap metal now. If anybody has done this before and knows the best way to do this please let me know.
I think several people on this website did this before, so perhaps they can chime in.

But the concept is that the RFID chip in the key is programmed into the PCM. That is why you buy a remanufactured PCM with two programmed but uncut keys. You use your existing key only to have the new keys cut by a locksmith so they fit into the cylinderlock. After you replaced the PCM, you can use the two new keys to program your old key into the new PCM as well. How to do that is described in the Owner's Manual.
 

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You can also send the PCM out to have the drivers replaced for a couple of hundred dollars.
But do you know a company that does this? These days, repairing faulty circuit boards is somewhat uncommon, to put it friendly. A company like G7 Computers does not even claim they do. How could they even test about every conceivable car electronic module in existence? Even if they could, this specific PCM will test OK. That is what codynw42 already established himself: a test light flashed upon cranking the engine, so the driver behind pin 52 definitely pulls down the pin. You don't want to get into a discussion whether the PCM is fine. Perhaps I'm cynical, but how do you know they don't send the PCM back with a reflashed EEPROM claiming they "repaired" it.

So, I would personally have a slight preference for a "remanufactured" PCM. If only you now have two keys again. There is a chance that there is something wrong with that PCM, but that is the same chance that you have a faulty PCM in general, which is already small.
 

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But don't forget, there is still one more thing to do and that is checking Automender's idea: test the Yellow/Red wire itself. Backprobe pin 52 at the PCM and run your own wire to the coilpack.

Clear the P0352 and start the engine with a test light between the wire and the 12V. It should be blinking again like before, confirming the backprobe at 52 is OK. The P0352 probably reappears because, although the test light is now acting like a parallel coil, it does not draw enough current for the PCM to be happy. If the P0352 does NOT reappear you should consider yourself lucky because at the very least it is not the PCM that is causing the P0352.

Next thing is to backprobe the Yellow/Red wire at the connector and attach that through the test light to the ground. Should also be blinking, confirming that backprobe and the coil are also OK. Then attach the newly installed wire to the backprobe at the connector, so you now run your own wire end-to-end. Still no spark and a reappearing P0352? Time to buy the replacement PCM.
 
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