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Iedit: ok so it says B circuit so i guess technically B doesnt mean cyl2. i should also check plug 6. But also i find it weird if it was cyl 6 because cyl 2 was the one that originally had the white/burnt/corroded coil tower and bad ignition wire. Cyl 2 was the only one that had issues as far as coil tower/plugs/wires when i replaced them./
Without any doubt cylinder 6 belongs to the same coil as 2. Nobody doubts that. But both do not belong to coil B but to coil C. It is cylinders 3 and 4 that belong to coil B and so the order of the coils in the picture is A, C, B contrary to what you would expect. It must be so, because both the Haynes manual and referred PCM pinout (which looks pretty genuine to me) say that the coil B wire is Yellow/Red and that clearly goes to the third coil. Also, this is exactly what the pinout says: coil B is cylinder 3 and 4. Shocking, but true. Perhaps this has to do with consistency with 4 cylinder Ford engines.

So I'm afraid you will find that 3 and 4 do not produce a nice spark like you had on 2. But that is for tomorrow.
 

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If there is ignition from all 6 tower wires, then the power must be grounded thru a bad plug, going straight to ground. I would look at the affected cylinder plugs to see if they were cracked before or during installation.
 

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From the Ford manual Yel/WHT is the middle coil
And without any doubt that wire goes to "IGN COIL C" at the PCM. Which goes to show that the Ford manual is (of course) superior. With that documentation we would have instantly concluded that coil B (the one the PCM is complaining about) is not the middle coil.

Edit: the firing order of the Vulcan is 1-4-2-5-3-6 and this translates into A-B-C-A-B-C. So perhaps it is all not that illogical.
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Without any doubt cylinder 6 belongs to the same coil as 2. Nobody doubts that. But both do not belong to coil B but to coil C. It is cylinders 3 and 4 that belong to coil B and so the order of the coils in the picture is A, C, B contrary to what you would expect. It must be so, because both the Haynes manual and referred PCM pinout (which looks pretty genuine to me) say that the coil B wire is Yellow/Red and that clearly goes to the third coil. Also, this is exactly what the pinout says: coil B is cylinder 3 and 4. Shocking, but true. Perhaps this has to do with consistency with 4 cylinder Ford engines.

So I'm afraid you will find that 3 and 4 do not produce a nice spark like you had on 2. But that is for tomorrow.
Ahhhhhhhhhh that makes so much sense. I was thinking the middle coil of the pack was coil B this whole time! Thats what i get for not checking them all while i was there., Ok so i will test them all this time and get results. Especially now that I know the B ignition Coil is not the middle coil nor is it cylinders 2 and 6. Man this thing is wacky. Ok for first test then Im just gonna pull the ignition wires off coil towers 3 and 4 and see if i have a nice spark or not. But also with that info, that means I DID verify the correct wire grounding and ungrounding with the YLW/RED wire on coil pack connector which is Coil B when i backprobed it with the test light. So hmm. But now to test the coil pack.
 

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To summarize: the PCM pins for the coils A, B and C are all three at the very end of the PCM connector. Since the PCM is installed upside down compared to the pinout documentation, these pins are at the driver's side of the connector, so we have:

PCM pin 26 = bottom row, last pin = coil A = Yellow + Black stripe = circuit 850 = P0351 trouble code = cylinders 1 and 5
PCM pin 52 = second row from the bottom, last pin = coil B = Yellow + Red stripe = circuit 851 = P0352 trouble code = cylinders 3 and 4
PCM pin 78 = third row from the bottom, last pin = coil C = Yellow + White stripe = circuit 852 = P0353 trouble code = cylinders 2 and 6 = middle coil of the coilpack.

and the firing order of the Vulcan is 1-4-2-5-3-6 which translates into A-B-C-A-B-C.

Edited to reflect the fact that the PCM is installed upside down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
To summarize: the PCM pins for the coils A, B and C are all three at the very end towards to passenger side of the car and we have:

PCM pin 26 = upper row, last pin = coil A = Yellow + Black stripe = circuit 850 = P0351 trouble code = cylinders 1 and 5
PCM pin 52 = second row from the top, last pin = coil B = Yellow + Red stripe = circuit 851 = P0352 trouble code = cylinders 3 and 4
PCM pin 78 = third row from the top, last pin = coil C = Yellow + White stripe = circuit 852 = P0353 trouble code = cylinders 2 and 6 = middle coil of the coilpack.

and the firing order of the Vulcan is 1-4-2-5-3-6 which translates into A-B-C-A-B-C.
Ok so I just got done pulling the ignition wires while the car ran. I get absolutely no spark from coil towers 3 or 4. So that's that... but I also have 12v supplied to the red/ylw wire which is ignition B coil and when I crank the engine it is grounding and ungrounding itself like it's supposed to.....so as far as I can tell - the PCM is doing what it's supposed as far as sending and grounding the voltage up to the PCM, right? But neither coil tower 3 or 4 is firing...So the coil pack is bad?? IIs that even possible?
 

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But the coil pack is new. Anyway, you can easily test it with an ohm-meter. According to the Haynes manual:

The primary coil (between the pins for 12V and Yellow/Red) should be 0.5 ohm.
The secondary coil (between the towers 3 and 4) should be 13,600 ohm.

Perhaps the behavior you describe is what the PCM always does on all three pins. You see that immediately if you take off the connector at the coil pack and do the test again. You could also put a paperclip or something in the connector to do the test.

You could have a very careful look at the connector. Check whether there is anything unusual about the connector at the Yellow/Red wire. Pull on the Yellow/Red wire to see whether it is really firmly in the connector.
 

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It is hard to believe that the coil has the same failure as the coil you had just replaced. The connector as mentioned above is a very likely source of your problem. A junkyard coil for a few bucks is a good final test for the PCM being bad. If it is there are companies that will repair the drivers but they are not cheap. Just remember you have to deal with the key issue if you install a junkyard PCM. I am not sure you can just self program the keys into PCM using the DIY two key method. There were multiple issues with some newer PCM burning up the drivers with failed coils.
Having multiple Taurus gave me the opportunity to parts swap many times.
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
But the coil pack is new. Anyway, you can easily test it with an ohm-meter. According to the Haynes manual:

The primary coil (between the pins for 12V and Yellow/Red) should be 0.5 ohm.
The secondary coil (between the towers 3 and 4) should be 13,600 ohm.

Perhaps the behavior you describe is what the PCM always does on all three pins. You see that immediately if you take off the connector at the coil pack and do the test again. You could also put a paperclip or something in the connector to do the test.

You could have a very careful look at the connector. Check whether there is anything unusual about the connector at the Yellow/Red wire. Pull on the Yellow/Red wire to see whether it is really firmly in the connector.
yeah thats what i did with the paperclip, i backprobed the coil pack connector at the ylw/red wire with test light and when engine was cranked - the 12v would rapidly turn on and off like its supposed to. Grounding and ungrounding itself . If just the power is is on - then all wires will have 12v constant. When the engine cranks they turn on and off like theyre supposed to. And ive done the coil pack test with a multi meter and all tested at around 0.8 ohms primary and around 13k for secondary like theyre supposed to. But the coil towers for that coil arent firing on a brand new coil. This is so freakin crazy. Idk what to do anymore.
 

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I guess you grounded the other side of the test light. You assumed the test light gets its 12V from the common 12V through the primary coil B.

But perhaps the connector doesn't connect at all at coil B and the test light gets its 12V from the PCM in stead.

You immediately know whether that is so, if you take off the connector and check whether the test light is still flashing when you crank the engine.
 

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I had a similar problem. Did you say the first coilpack had cracks in it? If so then it might have been fried by a short to ground on one of the coil wires. The first terminal of each 3 coils are joined to one wire and this is always at 12V. The other 3 terminals each go to transistors which briefly short the coils to ground to fire them. I just had a van where one coil was shorted to ground, causing the coil to overheat, crack and spew out plastic toothpaste. Replaced it with another coilpack which exploded loudly and impressed the sales clerk it was returned to (we didn't know exactly what the problem was at that point).

With the coilpack disconnected, measure the resistance of each pin in the connector to the negative battery terminal clamp. It should be infinite on the coil wires. If one of them has any resistance to ground, check to see if that one goes to the fried coil. You might also try this on a hot engine, since it may only short when hot.
 

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Also, if the PCM has disabled that cylinder due to the code being serious in nature, you may have to clear the codes before it will fire again. If that is the case then maybe you just had a bad coilpack.
 

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So ive been working on my taurus for a week now and ive been all over this forum scouring every slightly related post i could find and finally decided to make an account to ask my question.
My car is a 3.0l '06 Taurus with vulcan motor. Up until last week it has always ran fine and gets driven every day. One day i started her up, drove down the street about 100 feet and it just stalled out on me with no warning or sputtering or anything. I was able to get it started back up and drove it the 100ft back to my driveway and parked it, it was running very odd with no power. (car has never overheated or anything like that, all fluids are good). I was about to change the waterpump anyway cuz it was starting to leak on me so i changed the waterpump and started diagnosing this new problem.

The only code it throws is P0352, which is Ignition B Coil Circuit and the #2 Cylinder. I do some reading and find out that when the PCM doesnt get a pulseback - it shuts off the injector to that cylinder, OK so that makes sense. Its running on 5 cylinders. I pull the plugs off the coil pack (this one has the singular ignition coil pack that all wires go to) and all of the connections on the coil pack itself are good EXCEPT the connector for #2 - it is all white/burnt/corroded and also the pack has several cracks, i also find that the ignition wire for the #2 cylinder has a bad connection where it plugs into spark plug.. So i think i find my issue - bad connection on coil pack AND wire connection for #2 cylinder. So I replace coil pack - all 6 plugs and wires (all Motorcraft).

I clear the codes, i try draining the PCM capacitors, and the code STILL keeps coming on and shutting off my #2 cylinder. Sometimes it feels like its firing perfectly for the first half mile of driving (only after clearing codes/PCM) but then it starts losing power and the exhaust starts getting louder and i can tell its running on 5 cylinders again. But other than that, it is consistent from the time i start my car, it doesnt come and go. And it just seems to get progressively worse the warmer the car gets. Im not sure what to do im losing my mind and almost out of money for new parts. I tried pulling the PCM off and spraying some electrical cleaner in there and making sure the pins werent bent. I have looked all over for any broken wires or bad grounds and i dont see anything obvious. i dont see how it could be the PCM because i think the coil driver runs 2 cylinders off each driver, not just 1.

i need help please.

EDIT: just for some extra info , i should probably mention that when i check with the OBD reader im also getting a "OL Fault" and the FIRST set of fuel trims are all at 0. The ones im referring to say STFT B1% and STFT B2% i think. Because there was also a set of 4 fuel trims at the bottom of the scanner that all had a reading on them but the first set is at 0. Where i also watched a video on youtube of another guy with the same OL fault and trim readings the same as mine and his was a PCM issue. How would i know if its PCM?
BC "#2 - it is all white/burnt/corroded" I'd follow it to see where it led. My son's 2001 had multiple issues )almost non-drivable) when I tried the KISS theory. A wire connector group had melted against the catalytic, made a big difference when we insulated and separated them >-) They're so interconnected, you have to keep it simple? Health! Bob
 

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So ive been working on my taurus for a week now and ive been all over this forum scouring every slightly related post i could find and finally decided to make an account to ask my question.
My car is a 3.0l '06 Taurus with vulcan motor. Up until last week it has always ran fine and gets driven every day. One day i started her up, drove down the street about 100 feet and it just stalled out on me with no warning or sputtering or anything. I was able to get it started back up and drove it the 100ft back to my driveway and parked it, it was running very odd with no power. (car has never overheated or anything like that, all fluids are good). I was about to change the waterpump anyway cuz it was starting to leak on me so i changed the waterpump and started diagnosing this new problem.

The only code it throws is P0352, which is Ignition B Coil Circuit and the #2 Cylinder. I do some reading and find out that when the PCM doesnt get a pulseback - it shuts off the injector to that cylinder, OK so that makes sense. Its running on 5 cylinders. I pull the plugs off the coil pack (this one has the singular ignition coil pack that all wires go to) and all of the connections on the coil pack itself are good EXCEPT the connector for #2 - it is all white/burnt/corroded and also the pack has several cracks, i also find that the ignition wire for the #2 cylinder has a bad connection where it plugs into spark plug.. So i think i find my issue - bad connection on coil pack AND wire connection for #2 cylinder. So I replace coil pack - all 6 plugs and wires (all Motorcraft).

I clear the codes, i try draining the PCM capacitors, and the code STILL keeps coming on and shutting off my #2 cylinder. Sometimes it feels like its firing perfectly for the first half mile of driving (only after clearing codes/PCM) but then it starts losing power and the exhaust starts getting louder and i can tell its running on 5 cylinders again. But other than that, it is consistent from the time i start my car, it doesnt come and go. And it just seems to get progressively worse the warmer the car gets. Im not sure what to do im losing my mind and almost out of money for new parts. I tried pulling the PCM off and spraying some electrical cleaner in there and making sure the pins werent bent. I have looked all over for any broken wires or bad grounds and i dont see anything obvious. i dont see how it could be the PCM because i think the coil driver runs 2 cylinders off each driver, not just 1.

i need help please.

EDIT: just for some extra info , i should probably mention that when i check with the OBD reader im also getting a "OL Fault" and the FIRST set of fuel trims are all at 0. The ones im referring to say STFT B1% and STFT B2% i think. Because there was also a set of 4 fuel trims at the bottom of the scanner that all had a reading on them but the first set is at 0. Where i also watched a video on youtube of another guy with the same OL fault and trim readings the same as mine and his was a PCM issue. How would i know if its PCM?
Is your CEL blinking? It could be the spark plug tip that connects to the wires is loose, this happened to me and drove me nuts until I jiggled the wires then it ran smooth, I was getting the same code also, firmly but not over tighten, screw down the tip of the plugs this may help or solve the problem. Good luck.
 

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Yet another idea:

You could also attach the test light (assuming it is an indandescent light bulb) between the backprobed Yellow/Red and solid Red wires. Same thing should happen: blinking.

But now it might be that the PCM thinks the circuit is restored because it mistakes the light bulb for coil B and therefore clears P0352. If that happens and the P0352 does not return even while you wiggle the cable tree between the PCM and the coil pack (to check for a broken Yellow/Red wire) while the engine is running, you all but proved that at the very least it is the connector that caused the P0352.
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
Yet another idea:

You could also attach the test light (assuming it is an indandescent light bulb) between the backprobed Yellow/Red and solid Red wires. Same thing should happen: blinking.

But now it might be that the PCM thinks the circuit is restored because it mistakes the light bulb for coil B and therefore clears P0352. If that happens and the P0352 does not return even while you wiggle the cable tree between the PCM and the coil pack (to check for a broken Yellow/Red wire) while the engine is running, you all but proved that at the very least it is the connector that caused the P0352.
Even when i cleared the codes and tested the coil pack connector, the PCM still wouldnt fire the #3 and 4 coils. I even tried totally disconnecting the battery for awhile to drain the PCM capacitors to reset everything and it still runs on 4 cylinders when you start it. It doesnt ever fire the coils. Ive tried wigling all the wires and everything.

And when you say I proved that its the connector.....youre talking about the connector that actually plugs into the coil pack? You think that little connector is the problem?? I mean the connector plugs in? You think the one terminal on that connector just went bad??
 
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