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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Had an issue arise today sometime after lunch. Parked the car between 12:30-1:30 this afternoon. Got into the car around 4:40pm, a few hours later to go home when the car started as if the battery were weak. The car started, but a few of my dash lights stayed illuminated. Rant he car for about 1-2 minutes, shutdown then restarted without any issue(s).

Within another 4 hours I went back to the car to run an errand, when I went to start it the battery was very weak, was barely cranking and couldn't get it to crank enough to fire. Had to jump it from our other car and fired right up. Disconnected the jumper cables while running and all was well. Driving without any apparent charging issue(s). I checked the voltage with a meter, approx. 13.6v @ idle, and 12.8v with the car off, and the negative terminal disconnected.

In an effort to clarify if something is draining the battery, I disconnected the negative terminal overnight, and will connect it tomorrow morning and see if it starts, if weak, potentially a defective battery. If it starts fine, there is a parasitic drain. I purchased a new battery from AZ back in October of '07, so it should still be fine as I haven't had any charging issues. Just rolled 120k this past Saturday?

Thoughts folks?
 

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Had an issue arise today sometime after lunch. Parked the car between 12:30-1:30 this afternoon. Got into the car around 4:40pm, a few hours later to go home when the car started as if the battery were weak. The car started, but a few of my dash lights stayed illuminated. Rant he car for about 1-2 minutes, shutdown then restarted without any issue(s).

Within another 4 hours I went back to the car to run an errand, when I went to start it the battery was very weak, was barely cranking and couldn't get it to crank enough to fire. Had to jump it from our other car and fired right up. Disconnected the jumper cables while running and all was well. Driving without any apparent charging issue(s). I checked the voltage with a meter, approx. 13.6v @ idle, and 12.8v with the car off, and the negative terminal disconnected.

In an effort to clarify if something is draining the battery, I disconnected the negative terminal overnight, and will connect it tomorrow morning and see if it starts, if weak, potentially a defective battery. If it starts fine, there is a parasitic drain. I purchased a new battery from AZ back in October of '07, so it should still be fine as I haven't had any charging issues. Just rolled 120k this past Saturday?

Thoughts folks?
Just had an issue with the Vulcan recently. Turned out to be a fouled battery terminal connector. Clean your cables really well, and check the anchor points too. Including mine, this is the 3rd post about charging issues on Vulcan engines in the last few weeks. Coincidental ???
 

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Alt? You can easily test it by buying a gizmo that you plug into the cig lighter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I tested the battery this morning before re-connecting it to the car, and it read 12.6v. Tried to measure any draw, set the meter to mA for DC current, took one lead, postive and touched the ground terminal from the car (disconnected from the car ofcourse), and the other lead to the negative post on the battery, NO draw.

Connected the battery and attempted to crank the car, a couple clicks if that. At this point, I think it may be valid to assume that the battery is toast. Appears to hold a charge, but the CCA (Cold Cranking Amps), are no longer there....

So now. I want to replace it with a good battery. What to get? I see that "Interstate Battery" (1st choice) appear to be made by Johnson Controls. I don't want to have to replace it again after 3 years.

My terminals are clean. I am OCD, (Obsessive Compulsive Detailer).
 

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Even with all the modules asleep, there will be some current draw.... usually 20 to 50 mA. Zero draw means something is wrong with the measurement. From what you describe, it sounds like you have the meter hooked up corectly. Possible the fuse in the meter is blown from a prior use or from the draw you are trying to measure being too large. (It takes a few amp draw to take a battery down in several hours). Try measuring draw with the meter on a Amp range (most have a 10 A scale) and see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Considering my local options regarding batteries, I opted to re-visit the local AutoZone and have them check the battery and if bad (knew this), replace it.

They tested the battery, and the CCA test yielded a WHOPPING! 81amps. So they pro-rated it and off I go to re-install the replacement. Hopefully all will be well.
 

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I had a internally shorted battery that was doing the same thing
Interstate battery is the way to go if you dont have the money for the optima battery
 

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AZ batts. have been OK for me. They usedta was made by Johnson. The only bad batts. are from Exide/Willard 'cuz they don't honor warranties. ALL batts. are crap and have been for decades due to bad QC and offshore/Mex. production due to EPA pressure to get dirty U.S. industries to go outa biz.
 
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