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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have replaced the fuel pump assembly, the fuel filter and the ignition switch assembly along with the fuel pressure sensor and it still will not start on the first turn of the key. Now it actually did start on the first try a week ago for about a day and then back to no start until the second or third try. Any ideas, the battery has tested good at AutoZone and Advanced Auto parts, but I am still not sure its actual condition.
 

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Can you hear the fuel pump prime on the first turn of the key? You can either sense it as a little thump, or hear it. This should not be with what you replaced but sometimes a weak or failing pump will take two or three turns of the key to prime. If you have Forscan might try to read fuel pressures. Sounds as if you did a complete job with what you replaced. In the past year I have become more mistrusting of the auto parts store parts. I have taken home both a starter and alternator defective out of the box. Also the quality of batteries seems on the decline as well. I just replaced a battery that had a bad cell.

Scott
 

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Cycle the key three or four times then start the car. If it starts easy then it is either a weak fuel pump or a leaking injector or a bad check valve in tank. Did you just replace the motor/pump or whole module including fuel sender and check valve?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Can you hear the fuel pump prime on the first turn of the key? You can either sense it as a little thump, or hear it. This should not be with what you replaced but sometimes a weak or failing pump will take two or three turns of the key to prime. If you have Forscan might try to read fuel pressures. Sounds as if you did a complete job with what you replaced. In the past year I have become more mistrusting of the auto parts store parts. I have taken home both a starter and alternator defective out of the box. Also the quality of batteries seems on the decline as well. I just replaced a battery that had a bad cell.

Scott
Seems I just keep finding more things that might be a cause, but not the cause of the hard starting issue. Example, I just discovered that my negative post is loose even when fully tightened down hard. Put a shim you can purchase at Advance Auto Parts and now there is a better path to ground than before. Seems to start better and if not on the first try then usually on the second. Yet, the car runs better than it has in many months. Shifts smoothly, accelerates better than before and idles smoothly as it ever has. What I have still to discover will hopefully be the final solution. Thanks for your input, as every thing helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Cycle the key three or four times then start the car. If it starts easy then it is either a weak fuel pump or a leaking injector or a bad check valve in tank. Did you just replace the motor/pump or whole module including fuel sender and check valve?
Sounds like you may have hit the cause of my lost fuel rail pressure after running a while. Always starts runs good, but needs an extra key cycle when sitting over night. Have to look around for info on removing and checking the injectors for leaks. Any ideas here on TCCA would be appreciated as I haven't been around this site in a few years now.
 

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Sounds like you may have hit the cause of my lost fuel rail pressure after running a while. Always starts runs good, but needs an extra key cycle when sitting over night. Have to look around for info on removing and checking the injectors for leaks. Any ideas here on TCCA would be appreciated as I haven't been around this site in a few years now.
Are you sure the leakage is the injectors? Is there a possibility it is the check valve in the pump assembly. If you could hook up a pressure gauge to the outlet of the fuel filter (isolating the injectors) and see if the pressure climbs and stays steady for a period of time. I had a 2001 that I replaced the fuel pump assembly and 15k miles later it failed. It took three or four key cycles to build pressure.
 

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Also you may have a failing electronic control module that pulses the fuel pump to regulate pressure. Of course it is always good to check your grounds or the pump and module.
 

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I have replaced the fuel pump assembly, the fuel filter and the ignition switch assembly along with the fuel pressure sensor and it still will not start on the first turn of the key. Now it actually did start on the first try a week ago for about a day and then back to no start until the second or third try. Any ideas, the battery has tested good at AutoZone and Advanced Auto parts, but I am still not sure its actual condition.
I have replaced the fuel pump assembly, the fuel filter and the ignition switch assembly along with the fuel pressure sensor and it still will not start on the first turn of the key. Now it actually did start on the first try a week ago for about a day and then back to no start until the second or third try. Any ideas, the battery has tested good at AutoZone and Advanced Auto parts, but I am still not sure its actual condition.
On my 2001 Stable, I had the same problem; you'll never believe what was causing it, I went through a check to see if everything was tight, I found that the EGR Valcum hose was movable; I put a small clamp on it, just tight enough to hold Valcum; and after two or three more cranks, the problem just went away... My problem: No start after two or three tries - then when it started; it Cranked with low idle, like being choked out. So try this and see
 

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On my 2001 Stable, I had the same problem; you'll never believe what was causing it, I went through a check to see if everything was tight, I found that the EGR Valcum hose was movable; I put a small clamp on it, just tight enough to hold Valcum; and after two or three more cranks, the problem just went away... My problem: No start after two or three tries - then when it started; it Cranked with low idle, like being choked out. So try this and see
Congrats: Saving lots of pain: eye, ear, feel, finds things. Check of hoses in routing maint.
-chart-
 
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