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Discussion Starter #1
OK, I'm a newbie here and I know there has been lots of discussion about Taurus transmission issues. Our transmission (actually, my son is driving the car) has already been replaced, by Tuffy's, with a used tranny with 25,000 miles on it (the car itself has 76,000 miles). After spending $2,600 (including alignment, water pump, etc.), my son picked up the car from Tuffy's and has been driving it around. He reports a new problem and I confirmed it personally yesterday. Sitting still, in gear with the engine running, there is a sporadic sort of mild "bump" :huh: every couple of seconds. I put it in neutral and still felt the occasional mild "bump" but less frequently. Otherwise the car shifts smoothly and these sporadic bumps are not noticeable except when going up a steep hill (which makes me wonder if the bumps or always there but only noticeable when the car is having to labor). I also noticed a very slight whine and the Check Engine Light is on. :( Tuffy's is happy to re-look at the car (90 day guarantee) but I want to go in on Monday as armed with information as possible. I can imagine them trying to tell me to just live with the problem. Is anyone familiar with these symptoms and what they might mean?
 

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Go to a advance auto and have the code read. Don't let them erase it, just read it. That way you know what the code is and they can't pull one over on you.

It could be a misfire from the engine. It could be a transmission issue, the code will point you in the right direction.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
03 Taurus tranny update: OBD codes

Per advice on this board (thank you), the 03 Taurus SEL with newly replaced transmission was taken to Auto Zone for OBD code check. Here's what came up:

P0303: #3 cylinder misfire; probable cause ignition system spark plugs.

P0316: Crank sensor defective. Check connector and wiring to sensors. Check trigger wheel (whatever that is) for damage.

Would it be reasonable to expect Tuffy's to fix these problems at no additional charge? They certainly didn't exist before the car was brought in for the transmission replacement and water pump replacement.
 

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P0316 is probably happening because P0303 is misfiring enough.

I would suggest checking the coil pack if that was touched, as well as the spark plug wire for that cylinder. And check the plug.

Microfractures in the coil pack=misfire.
 

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If the connector and wiring are ok to the ckp (crankshaft position sensor), might suspect the leaky h2o pump (if it was leaking) as the culprit for knocking out the ckp. For your cyl.#3 misfire, I would check/replace plug(s), wire(s) and/or coil pack in that order.
 

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Sheila, the h20 pump moved over to the driver's side on 01+ DOHC.
 

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Sheila, the h20 pump moved over to the driver's side on 01+ DOHC.
They keep changing things so it is hard to keep up. I think (dangerous) the '00 had the pump in front but offset to the car front. Then '01 (my car) has it belt driven driver's side with tensioner. I am really glad as the plumbing is much more sensible.

And for the record, the '00 was COP while '01 was coil pack but one year only 3 holer fuel filter, not return, fixed voltage pump. Then to 2 holer filter, not return, but with variable voltage fuel pump.

Or something like that.

-chart-
 

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I'm gonna go ahead and speculate that during the r + r of the transmission, the spark plug wire just came loose. Check that first, than as mentioned inspect all other components. If you haven't had the plugs and wires done, now is the perfect time. try to convince Tuffys that they should look at it for you, but their most likely to point to the fact that it may just be time.

I've got a vulcan motor, so as far as how much it should cost for plugs and wires, I can't help you there. I would suggest however that you use motorcraft spark plugs, and motorcraft wires. If the wires and plugs are purchased from the dealership, it will be a pretty penny. A large discount can be obtained from Advance auto for the plugs, or rockauto.com for the plugs and wires. (Big savings.) I'm guessing that you'll be having someone do the plugs and wires, so just get an estimate for the job with your own parts. Some shops won't let you bring your own parts, so make sure you explicitly tell them. I would, myself, imagine an hour and half of labor to do the wires and plugs.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thank you all. Tuffy replaced wires and plugs, and cleaned fuel injection system, for a cool additional $460. No question they needed replacement, although questions remain: Why did this problem occur immediately AFTER we have the transmission replaced? And when my son picked the car up after the transmission replacement and new water pump, the technician vaguely noted the car wasn't running all that well and suggested we bring it back if not happy (rather than simply say there was still a problem that needed attention). So my son drove the car away with the aforementioned pricey results. Am thinking Tuffy is somewhat culpable here ... letting the car go with awareness that it still wasn't running all that well. I suppose the response would be, Why would you accept the car if things weren't 100% right?
 

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Thats what makes it hard working on other peoples cars. You just don't know what they want or expect.

I can feel a mis-alignment in a vehicle that a master tech will overlook, while others (like my friends) will rack up 120k on a car with out ever getting it aligned. They were kinda just saying, "if it bothers you, bring it back." Most people just don't notice issues with cars, and drive em forever with out a care.

I do agree that the tech should have made a suggestion for a return after 100 miles or so for a recheck, if thought things were *weird*.

$460 for plugs, wires, and a can of injection cleaner. I don't want to piss you off, but they should have at least kissed you before they fuc&ed you. Even if they used the special injection cleaner that plugs in at the rail.

My advice: Tell your family, friends, co-workers, STAY away from "tuffy's".

I don't think the r+r of the trans caused your misfire, that **** just happens over time on these motors.

If it was my shop, I would have given you a large discount for having to return to have the plugs and wires changed (like cost on parts and no labor), and I wouldn't have sold you a worthless fuel injection "cleaning" service. But, shops are businesses, and inherently, they need to make money.

I hate shops, hate hate hate hate hate shops. I'd love to become a lawyer just to sue every shop that sells worthless services to customers. (ie fuel system cleaner).
 

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Fuel injection cleaner has its merits, but a lot depends on what type of product is used and how it is administered. I'd hate for your to become a lawyer, we already have too many sue happy lawyers as it is. My guess is your misfire was caused by something being disturbed by the techs working on the car. I would agree, your mechanic was less that thorough about the way they handled it. I would have taken the car on a complete test drive and took note of any problems that were present both before and after the repairs. If there is a problem present after the repair that wan't present before, I would offer to fix it is a discount at least, unless it was obviously completely my fault. Even if the problem was present, I'd let the customer know about it and offer to fix it along with the other services for a discounted price for being my customer and letting me take care of them. Each shop has a different mentality though, I am the type that would rather do a quality job and keep the customer happy.
 

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Fuel injection cleaner has its merits, but a lot depends on what type of product is used and how it is administered. I'd hate for your to become a lawyer, we already have too many sue happy lawyers as it is. My guess is your misfire was caused by something being disturbed by the techs working on the car. I would agree, your mechanic was less that thorough about the way they handled it. I would have taken the car on a complete test drive and took note of any problems that were present both before and after the repairs. If there is a problem present after the repair that wan't present before, I would offer to fix it is a discount at least, unless it was obviously completely my fault. Even if the problem was present, I'd let the customer know about it and offer to fix it along with the other services for a discounted price for being my customer and letting me take care of them. Each shop has a different mentality though, I am the type that would rather do a quality job and keep the customer happy.
not being argumentative, but every gallon of gas has plenty of fuel injector cleaner in it. I have never seen an fuel system cleaning service make any difference at all. EVER. If they pulled the injectors and did it by hand, yeah. There's a ton of detergents in all the gas sold today.
 

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Just a note, if Tuffy gave you cheap plugs you're going to need to redo those. You NEED dual platinum plugs. You have a waste spark ignition, meaning the plug also fires backwards during the exhaust stroke so they could squeeze six fires into three coil packs. Since the plug fires in reverse, if you don't have the dual platinum plugs the gap will continue to spread due to the increased voltage requirement to jump the gap in reverse. They're not cheap, about $6 to $8 each, and the rear plugs on the vulcan are a bitch to get to. So you're looking at $36 in plugs minimum plus tax. You can do it yourself and save some cash. Take the cowl off the front of the window for better access. Some people find it necessary to remove the top of the intake manifold for more clearance but I didn't need to. Just remove that plastic cowl piece and get someone with skinny arms to reach back in there with a palm ratchet.

Also, they could've screwed something up in the rear of the engine if they were tooling around back there trying to get those three plugs. Like I said, not much room to get at those three plugs in the back. I wouldn't put it past someone to just say screw it and not even touch those three plugs and say they did, and charge you for it anyways. It's NOT a quick job. It took me about an hour just to get the three plugs in the back, and I already knew how to get them out, and I didn't remove the top of the manifold like some people do. If it was a quick job I'd question if they even did anything.

If I'm not mistaken, cylinder 3 is in the rear on the right when facing the front of the vehicle. If you find that plug is old, get all three, and go back to tuffy and raise hell.
 
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