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I’m about to start pulling my hair out over this. I started getting an oil leak out of the pan a year or so ago. Oil would drip out of the front and rest on the exhaust once it cooled down. When I started it back up and got back to operating temps, my car would start smoking. I was working out of town at the time so I didn’t have the time to look at it. Being out of town, I was paying for oil changes instead of doing it myself. So I had them put a heavier weight to see if that would help. It did for a couple of weeks. Started leaking again. The last of my oil changes in Louisiana, the guy stripped out my oil drain plug. He put in one of these rubber squeeze plug things. He told me that the leak was from the oil pan. I got a chance one weekend to get back home. Looking over everything, the oil pan is leaking at the front and rear. So I changed the oil pan gasket. I see that someone has overtorqued the pan at one point and damaged the mating surface. I use my handy body shaping tools to straighten it out. It’s not perfect, but it should seal. The new gasket was a nice, fairly thick, rubber gasket. I didn’t see the need for any sealant. I was wrong. The very next weekend I had to come back home and do it again. This time I put a high temp gasket maker on with it. I don’t remember the brand. A month later I got laid off. Not working I wasn’t driving around much. In the 6 months that I was off I might have put 500 miles on it. I go back to work and my commute is now 85 miles round trip. Time for another oil change. My in-laws had a coupon for a free oil change, so I took it. Maybe a week later, I start seeing the smoke again. Sonofab!+€#!! So I go buy a new oil pan to replace the bent one with the stripped drain plug. I also sprung for the better preformed gasket with the spacers in it. The paperwork with the gasket said it didn’t need any sealant, so i put everything together and it seemed to work well. A day or two later, the smoke came back. There is a leak in the same places. The front and rear of the pan. Im a bit frustrated with this right now. Should I have used a sealant on this gasket even though it said not to? Is there possibly something causing this problem besides the pan gasket? The front main seal and everything above the pan is dry. I’m confident that it is from the pan. I’ve done this enough times that I’m a pro at removing the Y pipe. Lol!
TL;DR oil pan is leaking at front and rear of motor. tried different gaskets. Still leaking. Any ideas?
 

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Use a fel-pro perma-dry gasket, put silicone at the corners where the rear main cap meets the block and where the timing cover meets the block. Follow service manual torque pattern or look it up online. You may have crank seals going bad, front seal isn't too difficult but rear requires removing transmission.
 

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I always spread a thin coat of ultra black RTV on the oil pan gaskets. No need to play. It works pretty well. Found out about it when my oil return tube on my Talon kept leaking. I use ultra black on everything now. No leaks since. Be prepared to scrape a lot when you change gaskets though. The Taurus oil pan typically needs sealer on the rear and front. The gasket is unsupported at the front for a good distance. Sometimes this will blow out. A thin layer spread with your finger on both sides is the surest way to go about it. No over slop to get sucked up into the engine. Nice and clean, and thin, is the way to go. Also the Vulcan is notorious for getting oil every where during oil changes. Not on the cat/exhaust thought. My trick it to use a piece of cardboard, about 5 inches long folded into a V. That wedges under the oil filter and directs the oil away from the started and into the drain pan, not on the cross frame or starter. If you get smoke/oil on the cat/exhaust, the you probably need to use the ultra black on the oil pan seal at front and rear. I put it on the whole seal. Nice and thin.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Use a fel-pro perma-dry gasket, put silicone at the corners where the rear main cap meets the block and where the timing cover meets the block. Follow service manual torque pattern or look it up online. You may have crank seals going bad, front seal isn't too difficult but rear requires removing transmission.
I can’t remember the brand, but I got the expensive per formed gasket this last time. I thought about the seals going bad. The front should be fine as the metal under it is dry. I can’t see the rear seal without taking everything back apart. I read about the rtv in the corners after I had everything back together. When I get back in there to fix it, I’ll see if I can get closer to the rear mains. And I’ll definitely be putting rtv on the corners.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I always spread a thin coat of ultra black RTV on the oil pan gaskets. No need to play. It works pretty well. Found out about it when my oil return tube on my Talon kept leaking. I use ultra black on everything now. No leaks since. Be prepared to scrape a lot when you change gaskets though. The Taurus oil pan typically needs sealer on the rear and front. The gasket is unsupported at the front for a good distance. Sometimes this will blow out. A thin layer spread with your finger on both sides is the surest way to go about it. No over slop to get sucked up into the engine. Nice and clean, and thin, is the way to go. Also the Vulcan is notorious for getting oil every where during oil changes. Not on the cat/exhaust thought. My trick it to use a piece of cardboard, about 5 inches long folded into a V. That wedges under the oil filter and directs the oil away from the started and into the drain pan, not on the cross frame or starter. If you get smoke/oil on the cat/exhaust, the you probably need to use the ultra black on the oil pan seal at front and rear. I put it on the whole seal. Nice and thin.
I got the leak from the filter to stop. I had to reseat the gasket and it stopped leaking. I like the piece to divert the oil from the starter. That’s one of those simple things I feel dumb for not thinking about myself.
The leak hitting my exhaust is from the front of the pan. It just happens o be dripping right on the y pipe.
 
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