Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello :)

I have a 2003 Ford Taurus SEL 24v dohc. About 95-98,000 miles on it. The engine seems to jump/misfire or something sometimes while sitting at a stoplight. Also when trying to speed up and kick out of overdrive there can be a lot of jerking and sluggishness, low rpm's and leaving stop light it acts like it has a miss somewhere. It felt like at a stop the engine wanted to shut off.

I changed the fuel filter, air filter, and cleaned the Mass Air Flow sensor. Have put in new plugs,replaced 2 hoses that had leaks I ran some cheap fuel injector cleaner through the gas tank.

Finally got a cel yesterday and was told i got a p1000/ misfire in first 1000 revolutions. A 0303 and 0304 misfires on cylinder 3 and 4 .

I found this link which has all the symptoms i have been having for a while and one of the guys say he replaced the cam sensor and mass air flow sensor to fix the problem.

2003 Taurus 24v jerky/sluggish problem - Ford Forum - Enthusiast Forums for Ford Owners


It looks prety easy to change the maf sensor but i am not sure how hard it would be to change the cam sensor myself having no mechanical abilities.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
17,415 Posts
A few members on here have had issues with the 03 'tec Crankshaft Position Sensor. How do the coil pack and wires look?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I think they look fine i do not see any indications of damage. I know nothing about cars but i read that if i have multiple cylinder misfires then it is not the coil pack since they are individual. I am not sure about anything really. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
What would be the cheapest and best place to start i do not even know if it is the cam sensor or not.

Judging from the info i gave where should i start?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Okay i got an oil change for giggles and i changed the cam sensor today it seems to be a little better. hmm i am looking at trying the mass air flow sensor and have ordered one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
im hoping to hear that this is the fix. I have the same issue and have done similar things to fix it as you did.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The cam sensor was around 20-25 $ and it was mounted next to the belt. 1 bolt size 8 and took only 2 minutes to change. fyi
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
Replace your plug WIRES. A known problem on these engines (unless yours has coils on the plug.....)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
no the cam sensor and the air mass flow sensor did not fix my engine.I also cleaned out the carburetter which had a lot of black junk on it and cleaned out the fuel regulator but i still have the same problem. Now i have a new problem the air conditioning blows strong but i am only getting warm air so this may be a separate issue.


I think i have a coil pak so i will probably try that next after i change the plug wires. I dropped the car off at pep boys for a diagnostic. I am planning to look at these things next


Cleaning fuel injectors by a real flush (i used a bottle of gas tank fuel injection cleaners before)
plug wires & coil pack
stuck engine thermostat
shorted oxygen sensor/coolant sensor
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Alright car purrs like a kitten now... Pepboys did a diagnostic and said i needed to clean the fuel injectors, lower intake manifold had a bad seal(they do not know if it is upper or lower when they get the code they just replace both and since one is on top of the other it is not to bad) They said the coil pak was bad and said the spark plug wires were showing high resistance.

They wanted to charge me 770 dollars plus tax for everything including diagnostic.


I am not a mechanic but me and my brother disconnected the air assembly which was scary but really easy. We then replaced the coil pack which has 2 screws and took 2 mins to replace nice and easy.we disconnected the battery first. We then unplugged a fuel thingy in the trunk passenger side basically followed the steps in the book to relieve fuel pressure and then disconnected the fuel injector bar and plugs and removed the lower intake seal . We cleaned everything up put on the new seal and lube and started putting everything back together. We also replaced the wires which were only 50 bux.


The fuel injection cleaning did not fix it and the plug wires seemed like they were in good shape to the eye.

I do not know what was the actual problem was but i am thinking it was either the intake manifold seal was bad or the coil pak. The coil pak cost me 90 plus tax and is easy to replace and the intake seal was only 50 bux more or less but requires a little bit of work.


Me and my brother are two young guys with no mechanic ability and fixed the problem very easily. Over all since we did most of the work i saved a thousand dollars when you add in all the other things we replaced.

Total cost less than a thousand but I replaced everything battery,plugs and wires,fuel filter air filter,oil change,cam sensor and mass air flow sensor,coil pak,3 hoses,fuel injection cleaning,cleaned carburettor and fuel regulator, new seals on manifold,added freon to the ac, and a few other things. I should not have to worry about any problems from these things for a long time :)
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
17,415 Posts
Wow...so it seems like a common trend for the Duratec of 01-03 vintage, is to have a leak at the lower intake manifold. Very interesting. Thanks for posting an update and congrats on getting the job done on your own.

FYI you don't have a carb on your car. Did you mean you cleaned up the throttle body? Duratecs get gunked up nasty TBs as they age.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
I have an 02 DOHC and the SAME Problem

I have replaced the coil pack, wires, plugs, have been dealing with this for about a year now. I am thinking the intake gasket is the actual problem. I also cut a little tab on the firewall side on the valve cover... Water gets down there and can't find any way out besides evaporating eventually unless you remove that mold tab that was formed when the valve cover was made. I'm riding on placing the best and final bet on the intake seal. I also have replaced almost all of the vacuum lines as well. I found a line melted from the EGR tube on the back side of the motor. I also am having a popping sound coming from the front not only when I hit a bump, but when a turn sharp or it's even worse when I'm backing up and turning... Scared at what I'm going to find...:eek:
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top