Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I've had a number of issues this past year with my Sable. The last issue I have is it won't come out of cold loop after it warms up. I think I've found most of the threads here dealing with such an issue, but I don't have any of the other symptoms that seem to plague other owners. Where else can I look?
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,685 Posts
What diagnostic code or codes are present?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I currently don't have a CEL on. The only codes I had were from the O2's running rich. Once I replaced my water temp sensor, those went away and my cooling fans started working again, and it started blowing hot air into the cabin. I don't have access to the Solus scanner at the moment, (I borrow it from a friend). The other thought we had was possibly an oil temp sensor, but haven't been to figure out if it has one. I've had a string of issues and this is the last one I need to fix so I can drive the car again.
The cluster temp gauge is working, and the cooling fans are working, so my thought is that the wiring is all good from the sensor to the ECM and from the ECM out.
I did take out the ECM to check pins for a different problem and haven't yet replaced the seals for the upper intake. I wanted to make sure I was done with the computer before replacing the seals each time. What other systems control idle speed?
Aside from the high idle (900-1000rpm), it starts, runs, and drives just fine. Once I shut it off, it won't restart. I can force it to start if I hold the throttle open, but that's not good either.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,685 Posts
Just because the CEL isnt on doesnt mean there arent pending codes present.

Codes P0172, 0175? If so, you need to check long term fuel trims for both banks, check fuel pressure, and check MAF mass flow rate to see if it in spec.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,574 Posts
If you have to hold open the throttle plate you have an issue with the idle air control valve not functioning correctly. Need to find the codes present.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
233 Posts
I wouldn't do anything until you pull the codes, an the trans temp PID.

Keep you fingers crossed and hope it's the trans fluid temp sensor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Alright, I have codes. Actually a number of them, covering my faulty ABS sensor, autolamp, and wipers. The two most relevant to getting my car on the road are U1073 , and P1116. As stated before, I've already replaced the water temp sensor. One of the previous times I had the scanner, I found the temp read out for the the sensor which was around -420 F. I don't remember how to get back to the area of the scanner to verify that temp. Unless there is another sensor that does temp, it looks like I'm chasing wires.
I wasn't able to figure out how to get the tranny codes this time. I've been in that menu before, I just don't remember how to get back to it.
The other code I'm getting that I can't make heads or tails of is B1260 Solar Radiation Sensor Circuit Short To Battery.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Update. I've been tinkering with my Sable off and on when I have time and weather permitting. I inspected some of the vacuum lines, and replaced both of the pcv connectors due to cracking. I replace 6 different lines that were or could be bad. This helped a great deal with the not starting when warm issue.
The next issue that popped up is it's now running to hot at idle, but would cool under throttle. First guess would be a faulty water pump, as I had replaced the thermostat when I replaced the radiator. (Side note: How do you get the housing apart if one of the nuts starts spinning in the housing?) I figured I would try a salvage pump and see if that made things better. After removing all the hoses to get to the pump, I discovered that I have 2 water temp sensors. Who knew? Turns out, the easily visible one is the water temp SENDER, which tells the driver how hot the engine is, the other much harder to get to and not easily seen, is the water temp SENSOR, which tells the pcm how hot the engine is.
With both sensors replaced, the new vacuum lines, I can now run the car up to temp, shut it off and restart it with now issues. No cel shining at me. I just now have a lack of circulation at idle that was not one of the previous issues. I have an IR temp gun and will get some temps of the various hoses and lines. AT which point I'll drain the system again and drop out the radiator. Maybe the new radiator I put it last summer has a manufacturing flaw. I'm just frustrated
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
What nut you taking about that it might spin?
There's 3 bolts holding the housing together. The bolts don't screw into the opposite side, but nuts embedded in the opposite side. I can get two out, the third spins with the nut. I can see it turn when I turn the nut driver. I've thought about drilling a small hole next to it to hold it, but I'm not at that point yet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
20 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
:horns:This problem has been solved. After 100 miles of in town and freeway driving, I have no engine temp issues. :horns:
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
About this Discussion
10 Replies
5 Participants
soulscourge
Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
A forum community dedicated to the Ford Taurus and SHO models, Mercury Sable and Lincoln MKS. Join the discussions on EcoBoost, aftermarket performance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Top