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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi. Help. I have had this Taurus for about 7 years. 153k. I drive it every couple of weeks. It had started becoming a little hard to start but I could get it to by feathering the pedal. Then it started having to crank longer. Next week I went out to drive it and the battery was dead. The battery charged fine but now the car cranks but will not start. Had it towed to mechanic. He said needed points and plugs. Ater repair, picked it up drove it quite awhile. When I came home, sunroof would barely close. Put back on charger. Next day, would not start. Had it towed back. (I notice when I turn the key 1/2 way during the process of starting, I do not hear the fuel pump as loudly. Mechanic said I have a bad cylinder but this car always had a tempremental one. It always sorted itself out after running a bit.)
Now the mechanic has had the car for 2+ weeks and says he cannot find the problem. I am going to have it towed to another shop if it will not start. I can't believe it is scrap. I think it is the fuel pump (it has had 2 before) but mechanic does not think so.

What do you think? Everything works on it a/c, etc. So sad.
Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you for your help.
 

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1. Take the battery out and check it through Autozone and make sure it is good through the battery tester.
2. Check the alternator and make sure the output of the voltage is in the range.
3. Exam the fuel pressure and verify whether your fuel pump is good or not.
4. Check your starter through Autozone and make sure it is good.

Good luck
 

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After getting a good battery, pour a couple teaspoons of gas directly into the engine intake, crank the engine and see what happens. If it starts and runs for a few seconds you've got a fuel problem, if it still don't start you gotta lectricical prollem.
 

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Batteries can fail VERY quickly. Start fine one time and nothing 5 minutes later. Typical cause is an internal short or open. BTDT more than once.
 
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2003 Ford taurus Centennial Edition
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Hi. Help. I have had this Taurus for about 7 years. 153k. I drive it every couple of weeks. It had started becoming a little hard to start but I could get it to by feathering the pedal. Then it started having to crank longer. Next week I went out to drive it and the battery was dead. The battery charged fine but now the car cranks but will not start. Had it towed to mechanic. He said needed points and plugs. Ater repair, picked it up drove it quite awhile. When I came home, sunroof would barely close. Put back on charger. Next day, would not start. Had it towed back. (I notice when I turn the key 1/2 way during the process of starting, I do not hear the fuel pump as loudly. Mechanic said I have a bad cylinder but this car always had a tempremental one. It always sorted itself out after running a bit.)
Now the mechanic has had the car for 2+ weeks and says he cannot find the problem. I am going to have it towed to another shop if it will not start. I can't believe it is scrap. I think it is the fuel pump (it has had 2 before) but mechanic does not think so.

What do you think? Everything works on it a/c, etc. So sad.
Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you for your help.
For God's sake don't scrap it! I have a Centennial, they are getting less and less all the time! Somebody will be able to diagnose the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'll watch that, worth a try. Thank you. I am taking it to another mechanic. The previous mechanic ended up replacing the injector on the problem cylinder but still the car will not start cold. It will start if we spray engine starting fluid in to it.
Does this symptom sound like anything that I suggest to the new mechanics?
Thank you.
 

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I'll watch that, worth a try. Thank you. I am taking it to another mechanic. The previous mechanic ended up replacing the injector on the problem cylinder but still the car will not start cold. It will start if we spray engine starting fluid in to it.
Does this symptom sound like anything that I suggest to the new mechanics?
Thank you.
Start with starting fluid but no on it's own likely you do not have enough fuel. Fuel pressure low or the system thinks the engine is warm when it is cold. System chooses fuel based on coolant temperature and inlet air temperature. Colder temperature tells the PCM to add more fuel. If it gets wrong temperature readings or no temperature readings things go bad.
-chart-
 

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When the key is turned to RUN you should be able to hear the fuel pump run for about 2 seconds. Very easy to hear the pump if you put your head under the car near the gas tank and have a helper turn the key to RUN.

No noise likely bad fuel pump, but before replacing it, I would hotwire it to the battery and see if it runs then. If it runs, suspect bad pump relay or other electrical issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thank you all. I used to be able to hear the fuel pump when I turned the key halfway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hopefully a fresh pair of eyes and I will tell the new repair shop this info.
 

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If you used to hear the fuel pump run with key in RUN, but dont hear it now, pump is likely bad, but as I suggested earlier, hotwire the pump to the battery to see if it runs.

Can also have a helper crank the engine while you use a large rubber mallet to wack the bottom of the gas tank a few times. If pump runs / car starts, pump is nearly dead.
 
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