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Hello, 01 Taurus 3.0 will start just fine in the morning and drives great but once it gets warmed up it won't start after you turn it off. It still cranks but will not start until it sits for an hour or so. The check engine light is not on and I have even scanned for codes and nothing. I have replaced the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor but neither one fixed the problem. Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The car has never had any issues with the idle. Sometimes after you drive it and turn it off it will start up for a second then start sputtering and die. Then it will just turn over and not start until it cools down.
 

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I actually have this issue on my 99 Taurus. I feel like it is a heat soak issue with some type of sensor or the fuel pressure regulator is not maintaining pressure causing the hot engine to vaporize the fuel in the line. Does anyone know if the intake air temp sensor or ECT could cause this issue? In addition, I noticed that my idle right before I turned off my car was surging up and down a little. It was going from 900-400rpm until the car started moving again. Does that give any indication to a TPS being bad or a temp sensor not maintaining a correct signal?
 

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It's some sort of problem with your closed-loop system. I'm thinking that when you're starting your car warm, it's starting in closed-loop since it's within closed-loop operating temp. but it doesn't like some part of data it's getting and won't run. 02 sensors, maybe?
 

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If you don't mind me asking, why should a car not operate in a closed loop? I thought that a closed loop is what a car normally operates in, as it connects all the readings of the IAT, MAF, and O2 sensors. Is this incorrect? Also, is the ECT apart of the closed loop system? I am thinking that it is possible that it is miss-reading the coolant temp and defaulting the engine into starting rich. Any thoughts? Thanks!
 

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Are you hearing the "thump" of the fuel pump in the gas tank ? My 03 Taurus had a similar problem. When the car had sit for a long time and was cold, the engine would start every time. When I took it for a drive and shut the engine off, it would not restart. I was not hearing that classic thump at the fuel tank. I checked the relay first to see if it was good. To be sure I was'nt throwing good money away, I had it towed to my Ford dealer for diagnosis. Sure enough it was the pump. It cost $98.00 for the diagnosis, but the dealer wanted $1300.00 to replaced the pump and filter. I said no thanks and waited until the next day to pick it up and drive it home. I replaced the pump and filter in my driveway with parts from Advance for $225.00. Good Luck.:rolleyes2:
 

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2001 Taurus Duratec same problem

I have been chasing a similar problem for several months now. The car starts and runs fine for several months until, once every couple of months, the fuel pump willl not run at key on. Voltage at the pump side of the IFS (Inertia Fuel Switch) is around 2 volts below battery voltage. Wait about 30 minutes and the problem goes away. Voltage at the pump side of the IFS when the car will start and run fine is .7-.8 volts below battery voltage. Jumping the battery with a running vehicle (battery around 14 volts) when the no start occurs will start the car and it runs fine. I have put in a new wire to the IFS from under the dash at connector 211. I have added a connection so I can quickly test the voltage at the input to connector 211 to see if the problem is before that connector. I am waiting for the problem to occur again
 

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I had this same problem with another car, and it turned out to be the neutral safety switch. I don't know much about these cars yet, so I don't know if that is relevant to this situation.
 

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A few suggestions. Crankshaft position sensor, Charcoal canister, and fuel filter.
 

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When a no start is occurring, before you replace anything, you have to figure out what you missing spark or fuel... oh and the next time it doesn't start try flooring it while cranking see if it starts, if it does your iac may be to blame...
 

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Hello, 01 Taurus 3.0 will start just fine in the morning and drives great but once it gets warmed up it won't start after you turn it off. It still cranks but will not start until it sits for an hour or so. The check engine light is not on and I have even scanned for codes and nothing. I have replaced the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor but neither one fixed the problem. Any ideas?
Wondering if this problem was solved? My '01 started doing this a few days ago. Fuel pump is frequently mentioned, but I don't understand why the FP would be so affected by the engine temperature.
 

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I had this issue years ago in an 88 Honda Prelude. You could shut the car off to fill up gas, and it wouldn't crank. but if you opened the hood and let the heat escape, it would crank right up. Apparently it was the 02 sensors.
 
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