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  Topic Review (Newest First)
08-12-2019 08:21 PM
TheBoostedKing
Quote:
Originally Posted by Automender12345 View Post
Are you putting on the air dam skirt also or leaving it off. With that on and wheel well plastic on I am not sure where the air is coming from to feed the engine. Also seems like a pain to clean the filter.


Straighter flex pipe will reduce air restriction over a bunch of bends.

I have the underskirt off mostly because I wanted to get easier access under the car I may put it back on I more likely will soon as I still kept it. There are some vent slots on the bottom sides of the front bumper. I didn't want to spend 150+ dollars on any specialty intake pipes and bends there not cheap here. Even though the pipe is flexible each of the bend linkages are very small in depth I have it mostly straight then a bend down with it. i've cleaned my friend's he has a blue one just like mine and it takes a bit of time to clean but is doable.
08-12-2019 08:11 PM
Automender12345
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBoostedKing View Post
I put back the wheel well idk why I would leave it off. I did remove the cushion on the inside of the wheel well this filter is pretty big on it's own but I do see what you mean. I used a 3" flexible exaust pipe it is a bit difficult to bend that's the best I could get it to bend this filter also has a mini inverted cone on top with a way in there too. I've been in rain a few times and no issues yet the stock filter was not much higher then this filter now.

Are you putting on the air dam skirt also or leaving it off. With that on and wheel well plastic on I am not sure where the air is coming from to feed the engine. Also seems like a pain to clean the filter.


Straighter flex pipe will reduce air restriction over a bunch of bends.
08-12-2019 07:55 PM
TheBoostedKing
Quote:
Originally Posted by Automender12345 View Post
Not being negative here but trying to improve design, there are two issues I see here.


First the bumper skin is blocking at least a quarter and causing flow restriction on close to half of the filter area due to close quarters.



The second is a water issue. If you don't put back the wheel well, which will block the other half of the filter, then water from the wheel will saturate the filter and completely restrict air and may cause water vapor to flow into the intake.

I put back the wheel well idk why I would leave it off. I did remove the cushion on the inside of the wheel well this filter is pretty big on it's own but I do see what you mean. I used a 3" flexible exaust pipe it is a bit difficult to bend that's the best I could get it to bend this filter also has a mini inverted cone on top with a way in there too. I've been in rain a few times and no issues yet the stock filter was not much higher then this filter now.
08-12-2019 07:23 PM
Automender12345
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBoostedKing View Post
Here's my version of the CAI setup from Baby SHO's pictures I like it alot here check it out!
Not being negative here but trying to improve design, there are two issues I see here.


First the bumper skin is blocking at least a quarter and causing flow restriction on close to half of the filter area due to close quarters.



The second is a water issue. If you don't put back the wheel well, which will block the other half of the filter, then water from the wheel will saturate the filter and completely restrict air and may cause water vapor to flow into the intake.
08-12-2019 07:02 PM
TheBoostedKing I haven't noticed a drop in performance if anything it raised slightly for me so i'm good not going back!
08-12-2019 03:11 PM
Jeff K Aftermarket or home made CAI can effectively alter the MAF transfer function reducing performance and MPG.
08-12-2019 12:44 PM
TheBoostedKing Here's my version of the CAI setup from Baby SHO's pictures I like it alot here check it out!
03-24-2016 10:44 AM
mjhpadi Not to break anyone's bubble, but with further dyno tuning the results are consistent that the CAI's actually reduce horsepower and surprisingly rob a bunch of torque from the new SHO. So much, in fact, that most of use have decided to ditch the eye candy appeal of the CAI for the higher performance from the stock air box! Just an FYI.....
03-24-2016 12:13 AM
Cableman Got this installed today on my 2010 SEL
Sounds mean and feels like it added power.
03-08-2016 03:35 PM
Mangled Heap Finally finished mine. Wasn't too bad once I found an adapter that actually worked, albeit with some modifications.
If anyone else out there wants to know what I did, here:
Note that this is the Vulcan engine by the way, and its only a MAF-down intake (I left the accordion pipe)

Parts I used: Ford Ranger 3.0 Maf Adapter, Spectre (note that these are all 3" wide) 6" straight pipe, Spectre 45* and 60* elbow pipes, a 3in-to-3in silicone coupler, and a cone air filter of your choice (I used spectre just cause it fit better, but K&N fit also with a little bit of maneuvering), Philips and Flat screwdriver, 10mm wrench and a slightly smaller (can't remember) wrench.

1. Take off the old box filter, everything from the silencer up to the MAF.
2. Jack the car into the air on the driver's side, take off the front wheel, and take off the front-most splash guard/wheel well plastic thing
2.5 Cry because of the rust on your car. Only applies if you live in the salt belt.
2. Screw in the MAF adapter to the MAF. You might need to make holes for the screws to go through, ( I had to for the bottom screws to play nicely)
2. Attach the coupler to the 60* elbow pipe
3. Attach the straight pipe onto the end of the 60* elbow pipe
4. Attach the 45* elbow pipe to the straight pipe
5. Wrestle with these so that the 60* elbow (the one with the coupler) meets up with the MAF adapter, and the lower 45* elbow aims out of the intake pipe's hole and downwards towards the road. You'll probably have to turn the pipes to line them up correctly.
6. Tighten the clamps on all everything when everything is lined up (including the clamps on the coupler)
7. Go under the fender and hook up the cone filter to the bottom of the 45* elbow pipe.
8. Tighten the clamp on the cone filter
9. Double check and make sure that ALL of the clamps and connections are tight!
10. Put the splash guard back into place
11. Put the wheel back on and put the car back on the ground
12. Close the hood
13. Start the car and make sure everything is good. It might be a bit louder up there now, but I quite like the noise
14. Enjoy

I will note that before I wasn't able to break the tires free, but now I can. In fact, it leaves a sizable skid mark taking off.
Also there's definitely a fair increase in the throttle response. The horsepower and torque are still the same, but regardless. Entire thing took about an hour because I had to keep making return trips to Advance AP to find pipes that fit right. lol
I'd say it was worth it, cost about 70 dollars in total. Although in reality it should probably be more around 50-ish since I bought some extra stuff just in case.
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