|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|04-16-2019 01:35 PM|
Did some research and some guy on a F-Series Forum mentioned very similar problems. Same on with a Mustang and a mid 90s Thunderbird. They mentioned that there's a transistor which sends power to the O2 sensor heater or in this case not.
So I measured everything out and there wasn't power at all. After i was almost 100% certain about the cause I decided to order a used ECU. I mean its 13$ + shipping. Definitely worth the risk.
Now after 1 week the ECU arrived and i couldn't wait to install it. Put it in and... Well its runs so much better. Smoother and lower idle (around 850 when warm instead of 1200rpm when warm), 7 of 8 fault messages are gone only P1000 Drive cycle remains and no SES Light on so far. Thats after 10mi driving.
With the old ECU it took 30sec (after deleting)till SES light with at least 4 codes came back on.
Only problem left now is the Cruise Control not working since the brake pedal switch went back last year and me replacing it.
|04-03-2019 09:13 PM|
Originally Posted by TheGreenOne View Post
They you need to do the run cycle. You could set out and drive all day and al night and it will not reset.
OBD-II Monitor Exercised Drive Cycle Procedure
Drive Cycle Preparation. Overnight resting. Check for air temperature as in #3 and gas tank as in #5.
1. Idle vehicle for 15 seconds.
2 Drive at (40 MPH) until ECT is at least (170 F). Engine Coolant..
3. Is Inlet Air Temp within (40 to 100 F)? If not stop here.
4. Cruise at (40 MPH) for Up To 4 minutes. Executes the HEGO monitor.
5 Cruise at (45 to 65 MPH) for 10 minutes (avoid sharp turns and hills) Gas tank ¼ to ¾ full.
6. Drive in stop and go traffic conditions. Include five different constant cruise speeds, ranging from (25 to 45 MPH) over a 10 minute period. Executes the Catalyst Monitor.
7. From a stop, accelerate to (45 MPH) at ½ to ¾ throttle. Repeat 3 times. Executes the EGR Monitor.
8. Bring the vehicle to a stop. Idle with transmission in drive for 2 minutes. Executes the ISC portion of the CCM.
CCM (Trans Auto)
9. From a stop and in overdrive, moderately accelerate to (50 MPH) and cruise for at least 15 seconds. Stop vehicle and repeat without overdrive to (40 MPH) cruising for at least 30 seconds. While at (40 MPH), activate overdrive and accelerate to (50 MPH) and cruise for at least 15 seconds. Stop for at least 20 seconds and repeat step 9 five times. Executes the transmission portion of the CCM.
10. From a stop, accelerate to (65 MPH). Decelerate at closed throttle until (40 MPH) (no brakes). Repeat this 3 times. Allows learning for the misfire monitor.
Best of luck.
|04-03-2019 07:14 PM|
P1000 is telling you that all the IM monitors are not complete. They will never complete with the O2 sensor lean codes you have, and you will not pass any emission test. Find / fix vac leaks, and the O2 codes will likely go away.
Hunting idle could be due to vac leaks.
|04-03-2019 04:06 PM|
CEL ans loads of Fault Codes
im finally done with the engine and transmission swap and the Taurus runs so much better. Better acceleration, smooth shifting, no overheating, no coolant spilling. Everything could be perfect, but...
The Service Engine Soon Lamp comes on after a few miles and stays on and I can't figure out what's the problem of some of them.
Those are the codes:
P0161 -->I had those codes even before the engine swap and thought its just a bad connection.
P0171 -->Probably a vacuum leak, intake manifold gasket is fine
P0174 -->Probably a vacuum leak, intake manifold gasket is fine
P1000 "System not ready" -->I drove more than 124mi so the System should be ready
P0460 Fuel Level Sensor Faulty -->It seems that the fuel level shown in the instrument cluster is right
Im not even wondering about the P0171 & P0174 because its an old car and vacuum leaks are common. But the others are bugging me. The car has to pass emissions and state inspection later that year and CES/SES Light has to be off. At least for a few minutes.
What I did so far:
- replaced both O2 sensors on the front cylinder row because i killed them when lowering the muffler
- checked all wires --> everything connected as it should, also all Ground wires
- all Fuses i looked at are fine
- replaced the camshaft sensor with a new OEM one, because i don't want it to fail and me having to replace the engine again. I made sure its in the same position again.
The car itself drives very nice. Smooth, no misfiring or so. only thing I've noticed is that when waiting at a red light. After about 30s the idle begins to be unsteady. Going down to around 500rpm, reving up to 1000<rpm and back down. When this happens and you hit the gas it feels like the engine stalls for a second until it behaves normal again.
Would be very grateful to get some hinds/solutions on what could cause those problems.