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  Topic Review (Newest First)
05-01-2019 03:21 PM
ddan Update:

Although the problem was the MAP sensor, I found that out by accident. The schematic in Chilton's uses a variable resistor symbol for the MAP. It is not! The MAP is a variable pulse width generator. You need your scope to measure the output. I got lucky when I decided it was faulty due to lack of output voltage variation.

I bought a new MAP from Hong Kong (sinyoauto2011) and it was a POS. The thing fired right up, but driveability was crap. It had a 2 second recovery time after any decrease in pressure. i.e. Whenever I lifted my foot, partially or completely, it would bog when I put my foot back in it. When starting from stop it would launch really hard after the delay, spinning wheels etc. Gas mileage was cut in half to 10mpg. This new MAP has no numbers on it so I wonder if it failed final inspection and was rescued from the trash.

I found an old Lariat F150 in a boneyard with the hood off and no engine. The electrical plug was still connected to the MAP, but not the vacuum so rainwater could have entered it, but for $5 it was worth trying. I swapped it out in the parking lot and it has been running beautifully ever since with driveability and gas mileage restored.

I'm trying to get a refund, but even if I do, with gas at 3 dollars per gallon I have paid dearly for this "new" part.
01-05-2019 05:49 PM
ddan Luckily, I don't have a MAF. MAP controlled engines are tolerant of vacuum leaks.

That $10 MAP is, no doubt, the same one Autozone is selling for $50. Go to the source!
01-05-2019 05:37 PM
Automender12345
Quote:
Originally Posted by ddan View Post
Sorry, I also have an O2 sensor. (unheated, 2-wire). I believe low or no volts from the O2 make it run rich. I'm lean.

I can make it "run" (by pumping) with the IAC valve either electrically disconnected or removed and holes blocked off.

While pumping the gas it is not in idle mode so the valve can't help.

I cleaned and tested the valve anyway.

The IAC valve bypasses air around the throttle body butterfly valve to regulate idle speed. An old boss had a 1989 or close Taurus that he drove for a week with using the method you are using. We replaced the IAC valve and it fixed the issue. You can ohm out the coil/linear motor in the IAC that will tell you if it has a blown coil but that is all and won't really tell you if it is not responding right. On older Taurus it seems like the IAV is a total shut off where the newer ones seem to set a fixed idle. I have also seen this happen on a Subaru. This is my experience but maybe it's a MAP but how good is a $10 MAP.



See attached pic.


If it were a MAP why does opening up the throttle plate enables you to run the engine? Is the fixed high pressure keeping the IAC valve shut and it doesn't use engine RPMs feedback to maintain idle. I know it is used to calculate mass air flow using temps and pressure were as a MAF is a calibrated heated wire and the temp change is related to air flow.
01-05-2019 03:38 PM
ddan I found a pressure/volt table for the MAP sensor, but I really didn't need it. The voltage at the sensor was 2.6 constant. I knew I had a problem when I got such a high reading at zero pressure. I confirmed a 5V supply to it and I went ahead and hooked up my handy refrigerator compressor and pumped it down to -20 mgHg and it stayed at 2.6 all the way.

I tried doing an autopsy, but it is all potted so I just demolished it trying to get it apart. Hopefully this is the only problem.

I ordered a new one from China which will take more than a week. 10 bucks, free shipping--NICE!
01-05-2019 11:33 AM
ddan Sorry, I also have an O2 sensor. (unheated, 2-wire). I believe low or no volts from the O2 make it run rich. I'm lean.

I can make it "run" (by pumping) with the IAC valve either electrically disconnected or removed and holes blocked off.

While pumping the gas it is not in idle mode so the valve can't help.

I cleaned and tested the valve anyway.
01-05-2019 11:16 AM
ddan As for the codes. It's not "throwing" a code and the only codes stored tell me the engine is too cold to get good readings.

21, 22, 24, 52
01-05-2019 11:01 AM
ddan I only have MAP, intake air temperature, coolant, and throttle position sensors. Both temp sensors test good. I don't know how to test the pressure sensor other than, when the weather was warm, the engine stumbled along long enough for me to disconnect the MAP. The rpm quickly increased until it quit.

I don't have a flow sensor. The TPS does that job.
01-04-2019 08:46 AM
Automender12345 My thoughts are that the idle air control valve is stuck closed. You can try to clean and lube it.
01-04-2019 06:30 AM
Jeff K Unplug the MAF electrical connector and see how it runs.

Run the COMPLETE code test (KOEO, CM, and KOER) and report back with the results. Getting the codes is ALWAYS the first step when diagnosing any engine related issue.
01-03-2019 10:40 PM
loudsho92 Sounds like a bad idle air sensor.
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