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  Topic Review (Newest First)
04-26-2013 04:39 AM
the_intimidator_02 That's a good tip Automender. I never thought about cutting the rubber ends like that to help prevent damage to the heater core. I'll have to keep that in mind later this summer when I tackle my parents 2006. Thanks.
04-25-2013 11:15 PM
sheila ^+1 on the good tutorial with pics!
04-25-2013 08:15 PM
Automender12345 On a 2001 Vulcan engine, it can be replaced without removing the intake manifold. I did it but it took a while to remove the spring clamps. For removing the hoses from the heater core, just cut the hose off flush with the heater core inlets. With the bypass maniflold cut loose you can get pliers in there to loosen the spring clamps. After clamps are off, slowly cut the remaining hose from the core being careful not to nick the heater core pipes. I cut them off so not to stress the heater core connections. I reinstalled the bypass manifold using using screw type clamps for easy removal in the future. The whole job moves faster by using those remote spring clamp pliers but I bought them after the job for my other Taurus.

On a 2001 Vulcan the intake manifold doesn't hang off the back of the engine as much as my 2006 Vulcan. Just a tip for people with older cars than 2005.
04-25-2013 07:16 PM
the_intimidator_02 I suppose I should do that soon considering I've had it since last November. Mind you I only put it on the road Feb 18th of this year. Once I get it cleaned up I will take some pictures and post them. The weather hasn't been great until this evening so it's dirty now, lol.
04-25-2013 05:38 PM
bull geek Good job on the writeup. That'll help out down the road for people.

When are you going to post pictures of your replacement Taurus?
04-25-2013 06:52 AM
the_intimidator_02
Steel Coolant Line Replacement (GUIDE)

EDIT: Aug 8, 2017 - Due to photobucket not allowing the pictures to show, I have for the time being transferred them to my google drive so they can be views by clicking on the link.

This isn't as detailed as it could be. I only thought of taking pictures after I was half way through this. But this should aid in guiding a person along enough that they can do it if I miss a step or two along the way. This whole job is pretty straight forward and fairly easy to accomplish.

First things first, drain the cooling system. Remove the air dam and use the drain c0ck on the driver's side of the radiator to drain the system. Once that is completed now you can start removing the upper intake to get room to get to the steel coolant lines on the fire wall. To start, remove the rubber hose between the throttle body and the air box. While you're there remove the weather cover off of the throttle body to expose the throttle cable and cruise cable. Remove both cables off of the throttle body. To do this simply detach the cable ends. The lower cable just has to push toward the passenger side to unhook and the other will unhook if you open the throttle and route the cable through the notch it's in.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx...VdULVRoT01WNTg


Then unbolt the cable's bracket from the throttle body.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx...nJScFhzNE9ETGM

Now start disconnecting the vacuum lines and EVAP lines from the upper intake. The are pretty easy to remove, the only one that took me a while to figure out was a plastic vacuum line behind the throttle body. It has a little white clip on it. To remove that you just need a set of pliers and squeeze the white part down then pull the line off.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx...G9qY0d4X0hMRUU


The U-shape PCV hose comes off easy, just move the green tab with your finger/thumb, they come right off. Don't forget to unbolt the EGR tube from the underside of the intake. I think I used 1 1/16" open end wrench.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx...XJVNWRvZXRjMEU

The DPFE sensor is not attached to the intake, so that can be left in place, just disconnect the wiring harness from it. Also a good time to advise that there are a few harnesses that require disconnecting along these steps. Once the EGR tube is unhooked from the intake you can start unbolting the intake. Not much holding it on really. There is a brace on the driver's side toward the firewall. (Circled in red)
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx...XduSHRMUGpKSk0


The brace is bolted to the rear head and the other end to a stud on the intake.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx...Up2ZHUyalE2OGM

Remove the Vaccum control on the front of the intake, it's only two 8mm nuts on the center two intake studs. Now you can remove the outer bolt on the passenger side. On the driver's side there is a nut that holds on a capacitor, once removed then remove the stud below. That bolt, nut, and stud are 10mm if I remember correctly. The two center studs are 8mm. Now you can lift off the intake. It will take a little playing with to clear itself, but it's minimal.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx...U9wWmdmdy1oOVE

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx...DR6T3dfZFhJbVU

Removal of the steel lines is easy now that there is room. When unhooking the lines off of the heater core be careful as they are probably stuck on there and the heater core tubes bend fairly easy. When you have that done, you can remove the two 10mm nuts holding the steel lines to the firewall. The steel lines can now be removed and the new lines installed.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx...XZrWnZtMmliUFU
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0Bx...EFFakN6RFVFS1E

To put everything back together is just he reverse. Only difference is that the cooling system has to be bled of air. To do that I filled the system with a 50/50 mix of Ford gold coolant and distilled water. Ran the engine with the heater on hot and fan on high. To know if the thermostat opened just grab the upper coolant hose. If it's hot then it opened. Shut the engine off and make sure coolant is at proper level in reservoir. After the engine is cooled double check the coolant level and top off if needed. You are now done.

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