|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|08-02-2012 10:32 PM|
Originally Posted by q0987 View Post
I will take a pic but it may be a few weeks.
If you live near a boat yard just look at how they store the boats in dry dock. it is the same thing and the base blocks are similar.
|08-02-2012 01:01 PM|
Originally Posted by nbpt100 View Post
which one set do you buy? rubber or plastic?
Wheel Chock - Harbor Freight Tools
Q2> Next time, when you lift your car up with wood stacks, may you show us a picture so that I can learn from you
|07-31-2012 09:09 AM|
Originally Posted by fct View Post
And regardless if he's under the car or not when it falls, if he's sitting next to it and it falls toward him, he will be.
|07-31-2012 05:44 AM|
Originally Posted by T_swensen View Post
|07-31-2012 05:23 AM|
|the_intimidator_02||I always chock the wheels and after jacking double check it|
|07-30-2012 11:44 PM|
Shaken but not stirred, if you can support and shake without it falling off Ľou are in the right direction. I use 3 ton stands and support under them. I made some double 3/4 in hardwood plywood turned in both directions and laminated with glue. 18"x18" is stable and strong!!
Use your good sense and just be safe. I use jack stand with jack released enough to sit on the stand. Esay to jack back up and finish the job~
|07-30-2012 10:24 PM|
Ford does not recomend jacking or supporting the car from the subframe. I know many do it anyway. I am sure they have a reason.
I have gotten away from using jack stands and have acquiredd several10x10 (aprox) blocks of wood and sections of 2x6's for stacking. This is similar to what boat yards use when storing boats for the winter. Much more secure and safer. I don't have to worry about the digging into the black top. It also keeps your support rails from getting hacked up from hard steel jack stand saddle.
Good wheel chocks are a must if you go high or will be dealing with stubburn bolt, etc. You can get a good set at Harbor freight for under $10. They always have a discount coupon you can use to get them even cheaper.
AS everyone has said, if you are just working at the wheel you only need to go high enough to get the wheel on and off. You should be able to change everything and bleed it with out crawling under. I you have to adjust the parking brake or replace hard line then you need to get underneath and you will want more room.
|07-30-2012 09:51 PM|
^ +1 on using chocks/blocks, and not working on a car on a scissor jack.
There is a reason that they banned scissor jacks in salvage yards.
|07-30-2012 08:29 PM|
I was taught to chock / block the non-brake-work wheels (that is, chock the backs when working on the front, chock the fronts when working on the back). These prevent the car from shifting front to back. Lifting one side at a time prevents the car from shifting to the side.
And if you're working on blacktop and you're in the US heat district (most of the country these last couple of weeks), watch out for jacks and jack-stands sinking into the blacktop. Almost sank a Volvo I once owned, but the bottom braces on the stand just barely prevented full submersion of the jack stand. And I didn't notice until I was done and couldn't pull the jack stand out. A short section of 2x6 or 2x8 will spread the load.
|07-30-2012 04:28 PM|
DO NOT WORK ON YOUR CAR ON A SCISSOR JACK
Just asking to become an amputee. You really trust that crappy chunk of stamped not to give you a plastic limb?
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