Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum - Reply to Topic
Thread: Good cheap, DIY upgrades under the hood? Reply to Thread
Title:
Message:
Trackback:
Send Trackbacks to (Separate multiple URLs with spaces) :
Post Icons
You may choose an icon for your message from the following list:
 

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










  Additional Options
Miscellaneous Options

  Topic Review (Newest First)
11-16-2011 09:07 PM
Monsoon
Quote:
Originally Posted by willyum View Post
Whatever you do, DON'T get a "120 volt" alternator. Not likely you could find one but it would cause a lot of problems.
I think what he means is a 120 amp alternator? I've never seen a Taurus/Sable run on 120 volts. Maybe slot cars?

Monsoon
11-13-2011 01:29 AM
JIMMER
Quote:
Originally Posted by willyum View Post
Whatever you do, DON'T get a "120 volt" alternator. Not likely you could find one but it would cause a lot of problems.
120 volt? Is there such a thing? Normally an alternator kicks out 13.5-14.4 volts to charge the 12 volt battery. You can beef up the amps an alternator generates. My stock one produced 110 amps. I added a lot of electrical mods to my car, so I upgraded to a 120 amp alternator. The voltage is controlled by the regulator to ensure that the normal 13.5-14.4 volts are sent to the battery.
11-12-2011 07:31 PM
willyum Whatever you do, DON'T get a "120 volt" alternator. Not likely you could find one but it would cause a lot of problems.
11-12-2011 05:01 PM
ericf @Zuljin.. you are right, however I live in California.. cold here is 40F at night in the winter.
bypassing the IAT should only be done in warmer climates, I should have been more specific. I have a Gen2 taurus with a cap/rotor, i was referring to my era.
But, coilpacks you can use an MSD if you want..
As for iridium plugs.. I'm still sticking to my own experience with them. I'm running them on my 4.0L Ranger and had better performance with double platnums, which I'll be changing back to.
as for the throttle cable, I've seen this "stretch" on new Rangers. I doubt the cable stretches that much when literally a few months old ?
11-11-2011 01:04 AM
KhanTyranitar
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoNic67 View Post
Probably Duratec has equal torque at low rpm. For the same engine capacity, it has dual intake/exhaust valves, therefore less restrictions on air flow at any rpm - obviously that counts more at higher end, but it does not affect negativelly the low end.
Not entirely true. The IMRC is set up to prevent low end torque loss by closing of one set of runners at low RPM. The later Duratecs that don't have the IMRC use other techniques to accomplish the same goal. This setup allows the Duratec to flow more when it needs to, like at mid to high RPM, without having the loss of velocity needed for the good low end torque.
11-10-2011 10:39 PM
SoNic67 Probably Duratec has equal torque at low rpm. For the same engine capacity, it has dual intake/exhaust valves, therefore less restrictions on air flow at any rpm - obviously that counts more at higher end, but it does not affect negativelly the low end.
11-10-2011 09:40 PM
Monsoon I'll add my 2. Getting horsepower from any engine is all about moving air in the most efficient way possible. Ok so how do you do this? Find an air filter that is the least restrictive. Open up the exhaust a bit, say 1/4 to 1/2 inch oversize.

I've already done the two above and satisfied with the results. But if I owned a Vulcan 2-other key components for high mileage engines would be replace the timing chain/gear set for a double roller high-performance chain/gear set and install roller rocker arms. Duratecs have roller rocker arms. Roller rocker arms have several benefits: less oil consumption starters, valves open/close with more precision and at the right time and because valves open/close with more precision you'll get more low to mid range torque. Smoother idle is also possible (more vacuum).

Replacing the timing gear set and roller rocker arms shouldn't bust the bank either, if you can do it yourself. Simple fixes for a lot of benefits.

Mass produced rocker arms have never been a good decision in my book.

The last 2-items should increase power, performance and fuel economy.

Horsepower isn't everything, torque plays a key role as well. I don't have a graph between the two engines but I bet the Vulcan develops more torque at a lower rpm than the Duratec.

Monsoon
11-10-2011 06:55 PM
Zuljin
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericf View Post
Find the correct resistance rating for temperature at 75F and put in place if idle air temp sensor. it will trick the car computer into thinking the temp is 75F at all times.
Do not bypass the IAT. You'll lose the ability to compensate for temperature. You'll lose tons of power when it's sub-zero (sub-32 for my Fahrenheit-loving neighbours), and risk detonation at warmer temperatures.

Quote:
gas pedal slack mod.. Ranger Trucks are known for this.. several Taurus's I've seen have the same issue.
Ford deliberately does this to keep the car slowed down.
follow the
gas pedal upwards. you'll see the cable attachment on top.
life the pedal UPwards till it stops. the top part of the pedal will be against the firewall. you will see maybe up to 1/2" of cable sticking out (sometimes more, sometimes less). you need to close that gap! I use cable ties and wrap them around the cable until the slack has been removed. Usually 3 small ones does the trick.
the gas pedal will now be higher than what you're used to. when you romp on the gas, you'll notice the difference.
at full WOT the butterfly plate will be full horizontil, or closer to it.
Good 'mod', I've done it to all my cars. Ford doesn't do it deliberately to slow their cars down. They de-tune when they want to do that. The cable just gets stretched over all the years of use and abuse.

Quote:
the cap & rotor, well not much to do with this, I use cap& rotors with brass fittings vs. steel or aluminum. they conduct a sneeze better and don't oxidize or corrode as easily.
You can't have a cap & rotor and a coil-pack ignition at the same time. G3 vulcans have no distributor.

Quote:
If you're brave, get a dremel out with a grinding wheel & see if you can port out the throttle body hole. more air flow = more HP.
same with the intake manifold.. a port & polish kit is relatively cheap, probably take a couple hours to do and you'll notice a gain instantly.
P&P takes a LONG time to do properly. If you're going through the effort, you want to do it properly. Add the intense cleaning you need to make sure you don't get iron filings and aluminum paste pushed through your engine, and it's not a weekend job. If you're so inclined, go to the junkyard and get spares, P&P those, then the weekend job is swapping them over.

But from the OP's tone, I got the feeling he's looking for cheap, easy things to do to get some pep, not turn it into a weekend racer.
11-10-2011 06:32 PM
JIMMER Hi ericf, actually the iridium can increase horsepower. importtuner.com did dyno tests on some different plugs and posted their results here. Fact Or Fiction - Sparkplug Horsepower - Import tuner Magazine
11-10-2011 04:08 PM
ericf Wow.. I have to add my 2 cents.
all a Jet chip will do is advance timing, giving you a minute bit of HP gain, as long as you use high octane fuel. the price of the Jetchip vs. cost of fuel vs. potential HP gain doesn't add up to anything but wasted money.
the programmer mentioned would be nice, however I don't believe should be used until all mods are completed.
Iridium plugs give longevity, NOT more HP. they are 100k plugs, no HP plugs. I wouldn't really recommend an iridium plug, they aren't for every car. a regular platnum would be fine, NGK, Motorcraft or even Autlite for your Vulcan would suffice.
If you want something noticable get Pulsestar.
as for wires, motorcraft wires are made by Prestolite. they're good. Not worth the money for them. for a performance wire I'd actually look into a set of MSD or Taylor's instead.
I'd also put an MSD coil in as well at that point.
But for basic and cheap mods..
180F thermostat, it'll get you passed California smog with no problems, and the motor will run a bit cooler.
cone filter and intake tube will help as will removing the baffle in the air box.
Find the correct resistance rating for temperature at 75F and put in place if idle air temp sensor. it will trick the car computer into thinking the temp is 75F at all times.
gas pedal slack mod.. Ranger Trucks are known for this.. several Taurus's I've seen have the same issue.
Ford deliberately does this to keep the car slowed down.
follow the
gas pedal upwards. you'll see the cable attachment on top.
life the pedal UPwards till it stops. the top part of the pedal will be against the firewall. you will see maybe up to 1/2" of cable sticking out (sometimes more, sometimes less). you need to close that gap! I use cable ties and wrap them around the cable until the slack has been removed. Usually 3 small ones does the trick.
the gas pedal will now be higher than what you're used to. when you romp on the gas, you'll notice the difference.
at full WOT the butterfly plate will be full horizontil, or closer to it.
I'm not sure on the 3.0, but if it has 2 coolant hoses plugged into the throttle body, you can safely remove them and join them together with a coupler. all this does is help is ice cold weather helping the throttle body plate from freezing. I suppose if you're in a cold climate you should leave that..
but where I'm at.. it's worthless, but mandatory for smog. Go figure.
the idea is to take away the excess heat generated from the hot water flowing through it giving you a bit of cooler air going in. cooler air is more dense, which is what we want.
the cap & rotor, well not much to do with this, I use cap& rotors with brass fittings vs. steel or aluminum. they conduct a sneeze better and don't oxidize or corrode as easily.
If you're brave, get a dremel out with a grinding wheel & see if you can port out the throttle body hole. more air flow = more HP.
same with the intake manifold.. a port & polish kit is relatively cheap, probably take a couple hours to do and you'll notice a gain instantly.
Also lightening the load in the trunk helps but is minute.
proper tire inflation helps as well.
Also.. synthetic oil.. amsoil or redline IMHO is top notch.. everything else is fine too.
Quality oil fitler.. motorcraft (made by purolator so it's good anyway) is a good choice. don't get a "racing" filter, less media traps less dirt. you still need to keep the engine clean too. synthetics will help.
Also I'd add an aftermarket tranny cooler because you'll be driving faster and the temps might get to high and we all know Ford AXOD's aren't to friendly. Also a must.. bottle of Lubegard Red. (this is NOT a snake oil. it's proven to work!)
but the tranny cooler will help a lot.
If you can find an adapter.. an oil cooler sandwich adapter if you can find something to fit. cooler oil will last longer and keep the engine happier in the process.

Most of these are pretty inexpensive mods and are easy to do and will generate noticable results.
This thread has more than 10 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome