Gen4 Wagon Rear Swaybar Bracket and Bushing Solution - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 02-28-2016, 09:47 PM Thread Starter
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Gen4 Wagon Rear Swaybar Bracket and Bushing Solution

For anyone with a Gen4 wagon(and I believe this to be the same for a Gen3 as well), you know sometimes it's hard to find rear suspension parts. The rear swaybar bushings in the bracket on my wagon were horribly loose making a rattling noise. I found the Ford part number for both left and right side bushing/brackets (LEFT:YF1Z-5B498-CL ....RIGHT:YF1Z-5B498-CA), however there's not a vendor out there that has them in stock, or is able to order them. So I took the upper hand and made my own way of replacing the bushing using my bracket, and the lower bushing from an endlink. Here's how it went......

I started out buying endlinks from Rockauto for a 1990 Taurus wagon. They were $2 each on closeout and are the SAME links as the ones I had purchased and installed in my 2001 wagon that were $9.50 ea. I don't know why they list 2 different part numbers when they are the same in every way. But I digress. The lower part of the link has the identical bushing in it as the sway bar bracket. The whole trick is getting it out of the endlink and into the sway bar bracket. So I grabbed my 3 jaw puller(I'm sure it would work with a 2 jaw puller as well but my 3 jaw has adjustable arms which helped) and set it up like this to push the bushing out being that there is a lip on both sides of the bushing to keep it in place.




After it was pushed out this is what I had.




Next up.... getting the bushing out of the bracket. All I had to do was cut one side of the outer "lip" and it pushed right out with my finger being that they were hardened, shrunken, completely loose and going in the garbage anyway.






Here you can see the difference in the worn bushing to a new one.



Now is where the fun begins......... First thing I did is to grease the side I'm going to push through on the bushing and the bracket so it didn't hang up when being pushed in.



I then cut 2 relief cuts so when I press it through the rubber has somewhere to go without binding and breaking. At the end you can't even see that it was cut, and the cuts will not affect the function as all those lips do is keep the bushings in the bracket.



This is how it has to get pushed through, and how I set up my make shift "press" to draw the bushing though the bracket. You can do this in a million combinations, but I just used what I had hanging around in my shed. It was a 7/16" all thread bolt about 5" long and nut, a 19mm socket 'spacer' a couple washers that fit just a little larger than the raised area on the side of the bushing, and a cup washer from a shock mount.





You can only go so far with the press so when it got to this point.....



I took my large channel locks and gave it a little squeeze, it came right through with no effort. Here's the finished product...
This is the press side with the cuts..... note that you can't even see them.





Old and new:



Installed!




Now had I had a little more time, I would have sanded the brackets, rust treated and painted them before putting it back together. But being that this is my wife's DD and she's going to be using the car tomorrow, this was more than sufficient, as I wasn't 100% certain this was going to work as well as it did. In the future I may refurbish these to sell so if you are interested you can always PM me.


Here's a video of the old bushings and how bad they were. I'll bet if you wagon owners look at yours, they are VERY similar.

http://vid59.photobucket.com/albums/...psdvhwppgf.mp4
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John
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-03-2016, 05:39 PM
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Nice writeup and pictures, John. Thanks!
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-03-2016, 06:29 PM
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That's what I call using your head, and improvising. Between a few Corvairs, a Rambler Ambassador convertible and this wagon of mine I have learned the fine art of improvisation. Sometimes, you just gotta do what you gotta do. Well done.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 03-23-2016, 12:59 PM
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Nicely done!
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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-27-2016, 09:12 AM
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Great write up and pics. Thanks, JB.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-07-2018, 07:32 PM
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Great write up! My shop recently replaced the endlinks and upper ball joints on my 2000 wagon. They were not able to find a suitable replacement for the bushings attached to the body (your write up!). I'll be tackling this one weekend!

Two questions: Is this the correct part (MOOG K80044) to use for the bushing?

On the reinstall, did you remove both drive/passenger side and let the bar swing down to remove the bracket/bushing, replace the bushing and then reinstall bracket/bushing with sway bar still on the car (held on by end links) or did you remove the sway bar off the car?
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 07-09-2018, 08:11 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1993MercSable View Post
Great write up! My shop recently replaced the endlinks and upper ball joints on my 2000 wagon. They were not able to find a suitable replacement for the bushings attached to the body (your write up!). I'll be tackling this one weekend!

Two questions: Is this the correct part (MOOG K80044) to use for the bushing?

On the reinstall, did you remove both drive/passenger side and let the bar swing down to remove the bracket/bushing, replace the bushing and then reinstall bracket/bushing with sway bar still on the car (held on by end links) or did you remove the sway bar off the car?
Thanks. Im not sure of the Moog p/n cause I didn't want to pay a premium price if it wasn't going to work 😁. On the reinstall, I took the whole bar ot to make it easier.

John
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-27-2018, 03:29 PM
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John, I hope you don't mind me using one of your pics of the swayer bracket. Congrats on the replacement idea. I'm hoping
poly bushings might now be available.

From my readings, I understand the sway bars have different OD [outside diameter].

Does anyone have the ID [inside diameter] and "L" [length] of the bracket to hopefully find a poly bushing?
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