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post #1 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-19-2013, 05:55 PM Thread Starter
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Write Up: Gen 4 Duratec UIM/LIM Removal/Installation

Note: The first 3 posts are from alldata and myself. PLEASE scroll down to the 4th post if you are only replacing the gaskets as there is information that can save you much time and headaches from breaking stuff.

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

NOTE: This process is from a 2000 Duratec motor. The process is identical (or near identical) for all 2000-2003 Duratec 3.0L Motors. 2004-2005 Duratec motors are similar but there are a few added steps, and/or moved steps. I will include those as well.

How Long Will This Take Me?
Short answer between 2 and 3 hours.
Long answer: Alldata quotes the time for removing the UIM at 1.8hrs and the LIM & UIM at 4.2hrs. I call BS. For me, the UIM took 30 minutes and the LIM took an hour. Add another 45 minutes for putting the UIM back on and then a half hour for jacking up the car and getting everything ready and checking my phone and what not. It SHOULD take between 2-2.5hrs if you follow the 4th post's recommendations. I bet I could easily do it under 2 if I tried and followed the advice in the 4th post.

PLEASE: Remember to tighten ALL bolts going into the plastic to their proper torque specifications (in the pictures). If you don't have a torque wrench that will work for this, then use a 1/4" ratchet and tighten them snug, but don't tighten them too tight, the plastic WILL crack if overtightened and require you to get a new intake manifold if this happens.

Please #2: Stuff rags down in the intake holes so you don't drop a socket or bolt down into the holes. You can see I did this but not NEARLY as well as I should have. I did not drop anything down luckily! This could cause catastrophic engine damage if it happens. You would have to remove the heads to remove the debris. Turning this job from less than 3 hours to many more.

2004/2005 owners scroll to the bottom for additional steps that must be added as well as pictures.

Tools required:
Metric sockets 7mm, 8mm, 10mm, and 11mm. A whole set would be helpful incase your bolt sizes vary.
Socket wrench, 1/4" required, helpful to have 3/8" or 1/2".
Large torque wrench (for EGR valve) that can torque 15ft-lb+
Small 1/4" torque wrench that is in in-lb's. Must be able to do 89in-lb's. Less if removing EVR completely.
Flat head screwdriver. Smaller and large sizes helpful.
Spring clamp pliers and/or channel lock pliers.
May require a wrench for 04/05 models not sure of size.
PCV Removal: 12pt 7/8" deep well socket.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

What parts do I buy?
The gasket set I purchased was Fel-Pro and and came with UIM, LIM, and EGR gaskets as well as fuel injector O-Rings.



Let the games begin:
First step is to turn off the motor, pop the hood, jack up the car a bit if you are tall, and get ready to roll!

UIM Removal
First real step is to remove the top of the airbox and the accordion connected to it. You can remove the vacuum lines out of the accordion and unplug the MAF sensors electrical connector. Then undo the clips for the top of the airbox. Lastly, loosen the hose clamp with a flat head screwdriver and pull the accordion off of the throttle body. Set that aside somewhere that the MAF can't get dirtied up.

^Mine Removed

Step two: Pop the pins on the throttle cable splash shield off and pull the shield off of it.


Step three: Unhook the throttle and cruise control cables. Then remove the accelerator cable bracket from the throttle body.


^to remove the right most cable its best to hold the throttle plate in the WOT position and push the cable towards the motor then pull it out sideways.

Step four: Disconnect the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) and IAC (Idle Air Controller) electrical connectors. Annoying clips to get off, but not too hard. IAC one is right on the tip of the IAC, and the TPS one is on the back of the throttle body kinda in parallel with the throttle plate. Additional step after this for 04/05.


^Terrible picture but you get the idea

Step five: Remove electical harness from stud on throttle body. Not needed on 04/05 motors.

Forgot to take a pic of this. The pic from alldata says it all.

Step six: Disconnect all vacuum hoses from the intake. This includes the EVR vacuum hose and the main vacuum supply hose (pic 1), as well as the PCV and EVAP vacuum lines (pic 2). The vacuum lines are different for 04/05 motors. Pics at bottom.


I'm pointing at the three vacuum lines on the passenger side of the motor. Two go into the EVR as one unit and one goes to the fuel pressure regulator/sensor. 2001-2003 will only have two into the EVR as there is no sensor on the rail. 2004-2005 will have the sensors vacuum tube in a slightly different location.

The EVAP vacuum line gave me trouble. It's just to the right of the PCV elbow on 00-03 motors. I used a screw driver to pry the rubber down while pulling up on the UIM after removing the bolts. If you can't get it off at first continue more steps until you can pull up on it.


Step seven: Remove the EGR valve. First pull off the vacuum line on top, then 2 bolts and 2 nuts. If you are going to reuse the gaskets, make sure they are in good shape, then set them to the side. If you have new ones, discard the old gaskets.


Be sure to remove the lower gasket if replacing them.


Step eight(optional I think): Remove the EVR (EGR Vacuum Regulator) on the other side of the UIM. Disconnect the electrical connector then the vacuum hose, then remove the bolts. This doesn't actually have to be done. I did it today then asked myself why. It just stays with the UIM. So skip this step if you wish to save time, it was annoying for me to get back on.

Step nine: Remove the eight bolts and upper intake manifold. CAUTION: It is possible to break these bolts. I have heard of it happening. I have removed plenty of UIM's at the junkyard and never had this issue. Just BE CAREFUL. All data does not say to remove in reverse order of tightening pattern, but I would recommend removing them in the opposite order of the picture below (start with the highest number). I would loose each a few turns, then remove them one at a time.



Set the UIM aside and now we can remove the LIM!

Lim Removal
PLEASE READ THE 4TH POST TO SEE WAYS TO MAKE THIS EASIER AND FASTER!!
These two optional steps are only important if you wish to make it easier on yourself when removing the fuel rail. Otherwise skip to step 3. You must have a special tool to disconnect the fuel line. Called a spring clamp disconnect tool or something like that. I would strongly recommend reading the 4th post below if you do not need the fuel rail out of the way to continue your work.

Optional step 1: Relieve the fuel pressure. You may skip this step, but it is easier to do it if you do this step and less dangerous. This is how you will do it for an 00-02 and some 03's. Best way to do it is first, pull the fuel pump fuse and then run the motor till it dies. Replace the fuse. Then Take a few shop rags and first cover the holes into the motor through with one or more, then take the second and place it under the valve on the fuel rail. Then take the cap off the valve and push the valve in so fuel sprays out of it. Just keep going until it doesn't come out or only dribbles out. If you skip this step you need to be careful not to hurt the fuel rail when removing it from the LIM with injectors. Or remove each injector individually. I will try to find info on relieving fuel pressure for 03-05's with no valve on the rail. If you wish to skip this step, BE SURE to at least pull the fuse and run the motor until it dies. They make special devices just for relieving pressure. If you have one of these you can use it instead. Fuel pressure testers will work for this.

Optional step 2: If you let the pressure out fully, you can remove the entire rail into the LIM from the main fuel rail. To do this on a 2000, 2004-05, remove the electrical connector from the pressure sensor on the rail, as well as the vacuum line to it then disconnect the spring lock coupling. 2001-2003 there is no vacuum line or electrical connector to remove. The pic below is different for 04/05 motors.


Step 3 (required): Remove the 6 electrical connectors from the fuel injectors CAREFULLY. They WILL break probably. Be ready for it. Should stay on if you put them back on.


Step 4: DO STEP 5 FIRST IF YOU DIDN'T COMPLETE OPTIONAL STEP 2 Remove the 8 bolts for the LIM IN THE SEQUENCE PICTURED. Remove the LIM.


Step 5: Remove the fuel rail from the LIM. Remove the 4 bolts and pull it out carefully with the injectors on it. Be especially careful if you didn't disconnect the rail in optional step 2. Just pull really hard. Make sure you have relieved fuel pressure. Expect fuel to come out. NO SMOKING!



Step 6 (optional): Separate the fuel injectors from the LIM to inspect and/or replace the O-Rings. Be sure to rub some 5w-30 oil on the rings before putting them on. NEVER touch the spray nozzle of the fuel injector. It will ruin the proper spray pattern.

YAY DONE WITH REMOVAL!!

What other maintenance should I do with the intake off?
Replace your PCV valve while you have the intake off. Very inexpensive. Use Motorcraft part or autozone PCV-1001 (I think thats the P/N). Makes the job easier with the intake off. Careful not to crack the oil separator. That requires removal of the front head to replace. Replace your spark plugs on the back as well if they are anywhere near need it done. Inspect all of your vacuum lines while the intake is off for cracks or rot and replace them if you need to. Inspect rear COP for cracks in the top or cracks in the boot if applicable (00, 04-05 only). Inspect spark plug wires and inspect bottom of coil for cracks if applicable (01-03).


Great video on removal:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s8o6UWs17bU

Sam

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Last edited by Sam; 02-20-2013 at 06:08 PM.
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post #2 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-19-2013, 05:56 PM Thread Starter
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INSTALLATION
LIM Install

Step 1: Replace the LIM gaskets with a nice fresh pair. Put them inside of the LIM.

Step 2: If you removed the fuel rail completely, replace it now and tighten the bolts. If you left the fuel rail attached, go ahead and put the LIM back on the motor and then put the fuel rail into it and tighten the bolts.


Step 3: If you installed the fuel rail outside of the motor, place the LIM now. Tighten the bolts to the LIM in this sequence.


Step 4: Connect the fuel injector electrical connections.


Step 5 (Only if you completed the optional removal steps): Connect the fuel lock spring coupling, and the pressure sensors vacuum line and electrical connector.

UIM INSTALLATION

Step 1: Remove old gaskets and position the new ones inside the UIM.

Step 2: Position the UIM and install the bolts in the sequence shown.


Step 3: Install the EVR valve. Install the valve bolts, then the vacuum line, then the electrical connectors.


Step 4: Install the EGR valve. Position the valve with new gaskets (or reusing your still good gaskets), then install the bolts and nuts. Connect the vacuum hose.


Step 5: Connect the various vacuum lines. This includes the PCV, EVAP, EVR, and main vacuum supply hoses.



Step 6: Connect the wire harness stud to the throttle body.


Step 7: Connect the TPS and IAC electrical connectors.


Step 8: Connect the cruise and throttle cables.


Step 9: Install the throttle cable splash shield and pins.


Step 10: Install the accordion and ALL vacuum lines. PLUG IN THE MAF SENSORS ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR. You don't know HOW many times I have forgotten to do this...


You are now finished! Start the motor and watch your fuel trims be happy
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Sam

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post #3 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-19-2013, 05:56 PM Thread Starter
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04/05 Duratec Extra Instructions

After removing the TPS and IAC electrical connectors you must remove the 'heated throttle body coolant lines'. Didn't even know these existed, but alldata says they do. Remember to reinstall them.


Vacuum line removal is different. Remove the PCV hose here:


Then remove the vacuum supply hose (by the EVR):


Lastly, remove the brake booster and EVAP vacuum lines:


Different picture for bolt pattern on the newer designed UIM:


If doing optional steps for LIM removal, the pressure sensor looks different on a 2004/2005:


That should be about it. Real pictures coming soon. If I have anything incorrect, please let me know.

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post #4 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-19-2013, 05:56 PM Thread Starter
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FOR THOSE OF YOU JUST REPLACING THE LIM GASKETS. Here are a few tricks I picked up from Bull Geek on how to do this quickly and without breaking the fuel injector clips.

Instead of removing the fuel rail from the injectors, just remove the entire LIM with the injectors and fuel rail still attached. So remove the 8 (long) LIM bolts, and then just pull the entire thing up and out. That means you don't have to relieve fuel pressure, worry about loosing fuel, or worry about breaking the clips! REMEMBER to leave the 4 short screws for the fuel rail in. Once you get the LIM unbolted, just pull it up and replace the gaskets without moving it too far around (so you don't break the fuel line). This saves quite a bit of time and will help keep things from breaking.

To be honest, removing the UIM was easy (except for the dang EVAP vacuum line). Took me 30 minutes at most from jacking the car up a bit to getting it off and setting it aside. The part that took me an hour was getting the stupid injectors back in the fuel rail. One O-Ring was stuck in the rail and I didn't realize it at first. I screwed around with it for quite a while before I figured out there was an O-Ring still in there! Removed it and it wasn't that hard to get it back on then. So in reality, this job can take LESS THAN 2 hours if you don't remove the fuel rail or have any hiccups along the way. Took me about 2h45min because of the stupid LIM problems.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Some pictures of my removal:

Shop rags over the holes. It's better to stuff an individual one in each hole.


UIM isn't too dirty, just some crap around the old gaskets.


This piece of junk wouldn't come off the UIM. Finally after I took the bolts off of the UIM, I lifted the UIM up and pushed down on the rubber with a screwdriver.


Side view with rail off, LIM on.


Comparison of old to new gaskets. The gasket pictured was the one that was leaking (cylinder #3). It was super flat and obviously couldn't seal well.


Pic of old failed gasket while still on LIM. Compare to the one next to it.


Look how much junk is around the LIM. It's just nasty! I tried to clean some of it out but didn't want it to end up down in the cylinders.

^
You can see how clean the intake valves are though!

Random UIM pic.


UIM bolts. I feel like these were different on other tec's I've removed the UIM from at the junkyard. Maybe I'm wrong.


Random LIM pic's.


Sam

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Last edited by Sam; 02-20-2013 at 05:48 PM.
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post #5 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-19-2013, 10:51 PM
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Many thanks and look forward to seeing the one for Vulcan
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post #6 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-19-2013, 10:56 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by q0987 View Post
Many thanks and look forward to seeing the one for Vulcan
I have one *mostly* complete for the 2003-2007 Vulcan, need to write one for the 2000-2003 now. Time consuming as you may have guessed.

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post #7 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-19-2013, 11:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Breeves002 View Post
I have one *mostly* complete for the 2003-2007 Vulcan, need to write one for the 2000-2003 now. Time consuming as you may have guessed.
This is one of the highest quality tutorials that will really shine and be greatly appreciated by people around here.

Thank you for your time and great passion!
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post #8 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-19-2013, 11:47 PM Thread Starter
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Well don't give me any credit just yet! ALL I have done so far is take what alldata has and put it on TCCA.

Now when I actually finish this it will be super helpful! Hoping to take some pictures tomorrow of the vulcan, but may have to wait until next week if I don't have enough time. I will get Tec' pics for sure tomorrow though!

I completed the 00-02 write up. Gotta do a 96-99 next HAH! Not sure if it is different for pre 96.

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post #9 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-20-2013, 08:36 AM
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Awesome write up! I have done this job (4) times and the instructions are spot on.

QUESTION WHILE YOU HAVE THE FUEL INJECTORS EXPOSED IS THERE SOMETHING YOU CAN DO TO CLEAN THEM? Just curious....
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post #10 of 21 (permalink) Old 02-20-2013, 08:54 AM
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My Two Cents:
****Plenty of anti seize when you replace all the IM bolts.
****Fuel Injector wire harnesses clips will be brittle so be carefull.
(Yes I have broke 1 or 2 no big deal)
****Clean the mating surfaces with brake clean and a soft brass bristle brush
****Clean the plenum especially where the gaskets sit
****Do yourself a favor and replace the PCV vacume line and vacume lines connected to the front and rear valve covers
****PLUG THE CYLINDER HOLES WITH A RAG WHEN DOING THIS JOB U DONT WANT A BOLT OR SOCKET FALLING INTO YOUR CYLINDERS!!

Slow and steady wins this race....
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