Writeup: The Clinton Gen 3 Heater Flush - Page 3 - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #21 of 146 (permalink) Old 09-26-2008, 03:07 AM Thread Starter
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very nice! just got lost on the 4th pic. where's the outlet? I just see a vise. please advise....
[/b]
Once you take the air intake boot off, it's easy to see, and get access to, the "outlet" hose. It's the only 3/4" diameter hose that runs from the heater fittings / bypass plumbing on the firewall to the top of the engine.

I have a pic of the thing, but visually it's completely confusing, owing to the wire looms, air hose, throttle linkage, etc. that criss-cross the image.


1986 MT-4 4-cylinder (R.I.P. circa 1990, rust, clutch)
1994 Station Wagon (R.I.P. circa 9/2005)
1991 Station Wagon (R.I.P. 1/2007, but the Benz that pulled out in front was bent much worse)
1998 SE Station Wagon (R.I.P. 2/28/09 at ~186k)
2004 Taurus SE w/Vulcan & AX4N | dark shadow gray metallic | gray cloth interior | still strong at 192K+
2000 Taurus SE wagon w/Vulcan & AX4S / tropic green metallic | gray cloth interior | purchased 6/12 at 51k miles
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post #22 of 146 (permalink) Old 09-29-2008, 10:57 AM
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Quote:
<div class='quotemain'>

very nice! just got lost on the 4th pic. where's the outlet? I just see a vise. please advise....
[/b]
Once you take the air intake boot off, it's easy to see, and get access to, the "outlet" hose. It's the only 3/4" diameter hose that runs from the heater fittings / bypass plumbing on the firewall to the top of the engine.

I have a pic of the thing, but visually it's completely confusing, owing to the wire looms, air hose, throttle linkage, etc. that criss-cross the image.
[/b][/quote]

thanks, I checked it. Is it the hose on top of the block?
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post #23 of 146 (permalink) Old 10-14-2008, 11:51 AM
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Just wanna say thanks to the geezer who put this up. Worked like a charm.

Couple things for those about to try this; DRAIN THE COOLANT BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING. I ended up putting the entire tank all over my driveway. Not cool. Got the dog to lick it up though, so it wasn't a total loss... Also, you don't need those hose repair donnikers. The hoses on your car are 5/8 so just by two 1/2 inch hoses and stick them inside the car hoses. Hope that makes sense. The seal's just as good and it'll save you 10 bucks. And now for the dancing banana.

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post #24 of 146 (permalink) Old 10-14-2008, 07:39 PM
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I also wanted to thank the author for this writeup. I have an 01 that had the old green in it too long. The heater only produced 100 degree air on low fan. Now I can get 163 on low and 149 on high (digital thermometer). Definatly fixed the problem and I used just water and a solvent sprayer hooked to my air compressor. I alternated between the solvent sprayed and just the hose. The solvent sprayer aerated the water and allowed lots of hunks to come out. I would pulse the water also to allow a big air bubble to come blasting thru which also helped. Just the thought of not having to use caustic chemicals to clean it out made my day. Every car I used flush on, the heater core would leak soon after.
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post #25 of 146 (permalink) Old 10-20-2008, 08:52 PM
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I also wanted to thank the author for this writeup. I have an 01 that had the old green in it too long. The heater only produced 100 degree air on low fan. Now I can get 163 on low and 149 on high (digital thermometer). Definatly fixed the problem and I used just water and a solvent sprayer hooked to my air compressor. I alternated between the solvent sprayed and just the hose. The solvent sprayer aerated the water and allowed lots of hunks to come out. I would pulse the water also to allow a big air bubble to come blasting thru which also helped. Just the thought of not having to use caustic chemicals to clean it out made my day. Every car I used flush on, the heater core would leak soon after.
[/b]
What is a safe flush solvent?I've had my 96 sable in the shop for the past two winters and was considering using CLR.Car was owned by my parents until 2002 and was well maintained.After two days of searching I finally googled the best answer!Thank you to everyone,Robster
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post #26 of 146 (permalink) Old 10-24-2008, 07:30 PM
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<div class='quotemain'>
I also wanted to thank the author for this writeup. I have an 01 that had the old green in it too long. The heater only produced 100 degree air on low fan. Now I can get 163 on low and 149 on high (digital thermometer). Definatly fixed the problem and I used just water and a solvent sprayer hooked to my air compressor. I alternated between the solvent sprayed and just the hose. The solvent sprayer aerated the water and allowed lots of hunks to come out. I would pulse the water also to allow a big air bubble to come blasting thru which also helped. Just the thought of not having to use caustic chemicals to clean it out made my day. Every car I used flush on, the heater core would leak soon after.
[/b]
What is a safe flush solvent?I've had my 96 sable in the shop for the past two winters and was considering using CLR.Car was owned by my parents until 2002 and was well maintained.After two days of searching I finally googled the best answer!Thank you to everyone,Robster
[/b][/quote]

A safe flush solvent? None! Using a chemical and you will be "cleaning" the metal, hence taking away a microscopic amount. This will eventually cause a leak. Mine was nasty, and the back flush method worked like a charm. The metal inside does not need cleaned with a chemical, but rather just disturbed enough for the stuff to come loose. If you can;t get proper flow, and nothing else works, well then you have nothing to loose. CLR, Vinegar, RYDLYME, or a mineral/silicate dissolving chemical. CLR seems to be what many people use

If you flush for an hour, you will not need chemicals. Aerate and pulse the water and you will be even more amazed. Be creative and design a way to intoduce air into the water stream. Make something from some hardware store bits. 15psi is all you need from your air compressor.
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post #27 of 146 (permalink) Old 10-27-2008, 05:32 AM Thread Starter
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Just had to do this again, so I got a year of heat -- and devised a new detail.

You can lower the level of coolant prior to the procedure by removing the top (small) hose from the coolant de-gas bottle, aiming it into a bucket and letting the water pump run coolant out of the system until the de-gas bottle is empty.

Result: minimumal coolant spillage when you take off the heater hoses.

Just as a precaution:

Do this from a cold start so you won't fry your upper cylinders or head/manifolds.

(Obviously) Stop when the de-gas bottle is empty.

Dave w/ the geezer wagon

EDIT: if you can't see the level in the bottle from the outside because of opaque crud, you can sight into it when you remove the cap. If your bottle is in this shape AND obviously bulged out, it's a good time to replace this under-$20 part, since it will leak eventually when it cracks at the mounting points... and it will crack soon.

1986 MT-4 4-cylinder (R.I.P. circa 1990, rust, clutch)
1994 Station Wagon (R.I.P. circa 9/2005)
1991 Station Wagon (R.I.P. 1/2007, but the Benz that pulled out in front was bent much worse)
1998 SE Station Wagon (R.I.P. 2/28/09 at ~186k)
2004 Taurus SE w/Vulcan & AX4N | dark shadow gray metallic | gray cloth interior | still strong at 192K+
2000 Taurus SE wagon w/Vulcan & AX4S / tropic green metallic | gray cloth interior | purchased 6/12 at 51k miles
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post #28 of 146 (permalink) Old 10-29-2008, 04:57 PM
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Thanks to all the posters on this site,the amount of information is essential to any home mechanic.I flushed mine for about a full hour and the results impressed me.I came up with my flusher,nicknamed " my little friend" and the air injection really made a difference!I will try to attach a picture of it,very simple and not much cost.might be twenty bucks if you go as far as I did,but I had some of the stuff laying around so can't say for sure.Robster
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File Type: jpg air_injector_08_001.jpg (161.3 KB, 1050 views)
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post #29 of 146 (permalink) Old 10-29-2008, 05:27 PM Thread Starter
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...I came up with my flusher,nicknamed " my little friend" and the air injection really made a difference!
[/b]
Fantastic!

Wish I had a compressor... though you could probably cobble up a venturi where the T sits and entrain air with water flow...

But back to the reply -- the best engineering is elegantly simple and this is a prize idea.

1986 MT-4 4-cylinder (R.I.P. circa 1990, rust, clutch)
1994 Station Wagon (R.I.P. circa 9/2005)
1991 Station Wagon (R.I.P. 1/2007, but the Benz that pulled out in front was bent much worse)
1998 SE Station Wagon (R.I.P. 2/28/09 at ~186k)
2004 Taurus SE w/Vulcan & AX4N | dark shadow gray metallic | gray cloth interior | still strong at 192K+
2000 Taurus SE wagon w/Vulcan & AX4S / tropic green metallic | gray cloth interior | purchased 6/12 at 51k miles
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post #30 of 146 (permalink) Old 11-01-2008, 12:58 PM
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From what I'm reading on here, this is just to flush out the heater core... How does one flush out the whole coolant system, radiator and water pump included? Also, how do you drain the resivoir?

This jellybean&#39;s got a hard candy coating

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