Writeup: The Clinton Gen 3 Heater Flush - Page 15 - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #141 of 146 (permalink) Old 01-22-2017, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by JPinPA View Post
Thanks again Automender - that was indeed the bypass hose - very short compared to the OP's setup. I went out this morning and looked a little more critically. I was able to clamp it off successfully.


The disassembly of the brace/bracket/support was a bit involved but when removed allowed perfect access to the water pump nipple.


I went back and forth several times from side to side and reassembled everything. It takes about 15 minutes for the water to get up to temperature but once there - there was heat!


I have a new degas bottle ordered and plan to do a complete full system flush and cleaning in the spring. This time around I was on a tight timeline and weather wasn't the best.


Again thank you for the info and support.
I hook up my hose to the heater manifold and not to the waterpump end of the hose. It is simpler to undo that end. I also use a hose pinching pliers to crimp that hose and the thermostat end of the heater manifold hose. I installed a brass couple in that hose. I pinch that hose and the water pump hose and I don't lose any antifreeze except that amount that was in the core.

This is the setup I used to inject air to help dislodge crud. This is the crud.
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Last edited by Automender12345; 01-22-2017 at 02:48 PM.
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post #142 of 146 (permalink) Old 05-06-2017, 02:15 AM
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Gentlemen-

The main problem on this subject is FORD's having a casting/materials problem with the VULCAN engine, i.e.excess internal block corrosion leading to a plugged heater core.

The cooling system has to be treated/flushed properly before attempting to either flush or replace the heater core as any corrosion will gather at the lowest point in the system, the heater core. The CLINTON FLUSH PROCEDURE and descriptive posts in this thread are excellent but if the complete system is not treated properly, the heater core will must likely plug again.

Watch this U-TUBE video -
- and others by this FORD tech- FordTechMakuloco
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post #143 of 146 (permalink) Old 05-06-2017, 09:57 AM
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[QUOTE=KULTULZ;3329786]Gentlemen-

The main problem on this subject is FORD's having a casting/materials problem with the VULCAN engine, i.e.excess internal block corrosion leading to a plugged heater core.

The cooling system has to be treated/flushed properly before attempting to either flush or replace the heater core as any corrosion will gather at the lowest point in the system, the heater core. The CLINTON FLUSH PROCEDURE and descriptive posts in this thread are excellent but if the complete system is not treated properly, the heater core will must likely plug again.

The Ford procedure actually calls for removing the freeze plugs and flushing the casting sand out of the block. I used a Peak Super Flush which is an organic cleaner which passivizes the cast iron. When I flushed the core I saved the particles and it seemed more like silicon sand and calcium than rust. Most was non magnetic.
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post #144 of 146 (permalink) Old 05-06-2017, 04:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Automender12345 View Post

The Ford procedure actually calls for removing the freeze plugs and flushing the casting sand out of the block. I used a Peak Super Flush which is an organic cleaner which passivizes the cast iron. When I flushed the core I saved the particles and it seemed more like silicon sand and calcium than rust. Most was non magnetic.
Correct! But how many will remove the plugs?

Do you guys (board) have a copy of that TSB?
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post #145 of 146 (permalink) Old 11-10-2018, 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Wills.WindowsAndWheels View Post
Ok so i went out and took a look at my set up (and did some cleaning under the hood!) and looks like mine is set up a little differently than Old Wagons photos showed. I took some pics, THINK i know what to do but hope someone can chime in and tell me what to do exactly.

So i looked at the passenger side first. I dont have to move the alternator bracket as described in the original post. here is what mine looks like




So the hose on the bottom with the arrow to it is the one that connects to the water pump...this is where i disconnect correct?

That hose runs up to the "T" that is circled above. I believe the hose going left runs to the heater core, and the other hose going 'up' runs to the drivers side.



This is the the drivers side. Again, I dont have to remove any hoses or move the air intake tube at all. I can reach everything pretty easily.

The OTHER "T" you see there is what i need to know what to do with next...here it is up close..





So the hose going "Up" is the one that runs over the the passenger side (in photo one) and the other hose going to the left goes directly into the motor.

So whats confusing me is im dealing with a "T" on BOTH sides and im not sure what to clamp off and what to run the water to lol.

Help/advice anyone?
I have the same set up. Did you ever figure this out?... it's getting cold and I want to flush tomorrow. I'm thinking we just clamp in between the two T's.

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post #146 of 146 (permalink) Old 11-11-2018, 06:00 PM
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In the clean core club.

Last edited by IMBull223; 11-11-2018 at 06:03 PM.
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