Gen 4 - Duratec Oil Pan Gasket Replacement - Page 3 - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #21 of 45 (permalink) Old 09-06-2010, 03:17 PM
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I just finished changing the oil pan gasket on my 2002 Sable Duratec. There was only one real snag but it was a doozy. Given that the car is 8 years old and has been operated on salty roads in Michigan for all those winters, it should be no surprise that the nuts and bolts on the exhaust system were pretty rusty. As a result, two nuts and one bolt rounded off when I tried to remove them, despite being careful with tool selection (proper size, six-point sockets). A couple of trips to Sears got me a Grip-Tite socket set and a Gator grip socket that worked just fine on the rounded nuts at the y-pipe-to-tailpipe connection. No such luck with the bolt holding the y-pipe to the rear manifold.
I disconnected the tail pipe and lowered it and moved it to the side to improve access to the remaining bolt, but could not get it to budge even with a stud extractor and breaker bar. Finally, I used an air powered grinder to grind the head off. You might be able to do that with a Dremel tool but it would take a lot longer. That allowed me to drop the Y-pipe and get the gasket changed.
According to the shop manual, the proper assembly sequence is to hand tighten the bolts to the transaxle, then tighten the oil pan to engine bolts in the proper order (above) to 18 ft-lbs, then tighten the pan to transaxle bolts to 30 ft-lbs.
When placing the oil pan in position, have two (and only two) bolts sticking up through the new gasket ready to engage their proper holes in the engine. Hand tighten those two before inserting the remaining bolts.
At that point, I still had the issue of the stub of the bolt in the rear exhaust manifold to deal with. I ultimately got it out by grinding it to a square shape, 1/4 inch on each side. That allowed me to fit a 1/4 inch drive socket over it (I happened to have an 8 point socket which functioned as an effective "gender changer". This allowed me to connect it to a breaker bar which, with some wiggling and only a little effort, aided by some PB Blaster, enabled me to thread that bugger right out. If you don't have an 8 point socket, you can use a 12 point 11 mm socket as a gender changer. It will fit perfectly upside down over a 3/8 inch drive ratchet.
You'll want to chase the threads in the rear manifold with a tap of the correct size (m10x1.50). You get a fair amount of crap in there that should be cleaned out before attempting to insert a new bolt. Needless to say I reassembled the thing with all new nuts and bolts on the exhaust pipe and used plenty of anti-seize as the write-up recommends. It does help to have a second person available to get the y-pipe back into position. In my case, I asked the wife to position the connection to the front manifold from above and put one nut loosely on the stud there while I supported the pipe from below and got one bolt loosely into the rear manifold. That took only a couple of minutes and supported the weight of the thing which allowed me to finish wrestling it into position and connecting the rest of the nuts and bolts. Get all the nuts and bolts on before tightening any of them down.
I'm not sure it was necessary but I used a couple of dots of sealer to hold each gasket in place while reassembling the Y-pipe into the car. I figured I didn't want to risk having them slip out of place and get distorted and that the sealer would eventually burn off. Seemed to work.
But for that one bolt, this would have been a relatively easy and straightforward job, and saved about $350 vs the dealer quote. Thanks for the great write-up.

Last edited by dcotter0579; 09-07-2010 at 02:18 PM.
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post #22 of 45 (permalink) Old 09-19-2010, 08:17 PM
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Hmm... my mechanic has been saying that there is an oil pan leak on my car for a few years now...and I don't think I'm going to ask him to fix it after reading this. Looks like too big of a job, he will probably charge 5+ hours labor. I personally feel that the oil pans on these cars are deep enough that a leak is no big deal. Under normal conditions, no oil contacts the gasket, from what I understand. Did you guys experience massive leakages from oil pan gaskets? I personally think that plugging the leak with some silicone, or something better, would be more reasonable, though unprofessional, regardless, it would not lead to any failure. It seems like tauruses are some of the trickiest cars to work on out there, despite the parts being cheap. Their engine compartments seem so cramped. Cannot even get spark plugs or coils on the back of the engine without removal of intake manifold...not sure how many other cars have such wonderful "features." I sometimes feel that if ford designed these cars to be a bit easier to service, and spent just a wee bit more on the quality of major components (suspension, transmission, etc...) then the cars would be favored amongst all people, and would easily be 400,000 mile cars. Though ford engines, unlike transmissions, are tough.
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post #23 of 45 (permalink) Old 09-19-2010, 09:57 PM
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Most shops want about $200-300 for this task. All is labor except apprx. $30-50 for gasket, oil, and filter. One shop years ago on a 95 3.0 vulcan didnt even bother to r&r gasket or oil filter. Simply cleaned everything thoroughly, used orange rtv on the pan and mounting surface, dumped in some fresh oil and called it good. Not recommended, but no leaks for years after.
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post #24 of 45 (permalink) Old 09-19-2010, 10:03 PM
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They did remove old pan gasket but did not replace it; only used the orange rtv.
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post #25 of 45 (permalink) Old 09-25-2010, 10:02 PM
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My Sable did not exhibit a "massive" leak, but did constanly drip to the point that I didn't want to park it in the driveway and the street now has a pretty significant stain from all the drips. Also, it would drip on the exhaust manifold and you would notice a nasty burning oil smell fairly frequently when stopped at a traffic light.

The smells and the dripping are gone now. I consider the work to have been totally worth it. I wouldn't have wanted to pay a mechanic to to it but as a DIY project, it was a very satisfying thing to have accomplished.

As for the cramped engine compartment, it is a result of cramming so much engineering into a smaller and smaller package. Dual overhead cams, power steering, brakes, A/C, fuel injection, computers all over the place, antilock brakes, cruise control, etc. All these things take up room. Sure the engine compartment is crammed full compared to a '55 Chevy straight six, but there's a lot more going on under there nowadays.

As to removing the upper intake manifold to change the rear spark plugs, NOT necessary. I have changed mine without removing it. You take out the right side cowl and have enough room to pull the plugs.

Last edited by dcotter0579; 09-25-2010 at 10:11 PM.
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post #26 of 45 (permalink) Old 07-06-2014, 06:32 AM
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Hello Everyone,
My 2000 wagon is dripping oil and I have identified this issue listed here to be the cause. I see the oil pan is actually two parts with an upper and lower sections. My leak is at the upper seal/gasket. I see no mention of a
the upper oil pan section part repair here from Silver bullet. I am thinking there shouldn't be any additional difficult catches here. Can anyone confirm?

Mark
'00 Taurus SE Wagon
'00 Jeep Cherokee
'00 Acura TL
'97 Miata
'07 Suzuki V-Strom DL650
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post #27 of 45 (permalink) Old 07-06-2014, 03:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cap2020 View Post
Hello Everyone,
My 2000 wagon is dripping oil and I have identified this issue listed here to be the cause. I see the oil pan is actually two parts with an upper and lower sections. My leak is at the upper seal/gasket. I see no mention of a
the upper oil pan section part repair here from Silver bullet. I am thinking there shouldn't be any additional difficult catches here. Can anyone confirm?
Not exactly sure what you mean by upper and lower part of the oil pan.

https://www.taurusclub.com/forum/134-...ml#post2308713

Take a look there and see what the job entails. That's when I did mine. It's a pain in the ass to get the Y pipe out of the way if you are in the rust belt but that's the biggest hurdle, the rest is cake.

John
2007 Pontiac Torrent, 2013 Hyundai Sonata GLS
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post #28 of 45 (permalink) Old 07-06-2014, 07:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sousa632 View Post
Not exactly sure what you mean by upper and lower part of the oil pan.

https://www.taurusclub.com/forum/134-...ml#post2308713

Take a look there and see what the job entails. That's when I did mine. It's a pain in the ass to get the Y pipe out of the way if you are in the rust belt but that's the biggest hurdle, the rest is cake.
Hey, thanks for the reply. The wet spots on this engine are on the one corner just above the removable transmission to engine bracket. Possibly the leak is coming from the small plastic sending unit using a small screw & oil ring? WHAT IS THIS PART CALLED? I cannot locate it on Rock Auto's parts breakdown.

I went ahead & removed the oil pan figured I'd replace the gasket now that I have the exhaust pipes out of the way and my mileage is at 106K. Figured it will need it anyway. Wouldn't you know there is a Fel-Pro gasket there now!

Hard to tell for sure where this leak is coming from but I'd say the plastic switch I mention above. And I can't get it out without possibly breaking it. Just a few mm too long. I'll need a new one before I force it out. What is this part?

Mark
'00 Taurus SE Wagon
'00 Jeep Cherokee
'00 Acura TL
'97 Miata
'07 Suzuki V-Strom DL650
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post #29 of 45 (permalink) Old 07-06-2014, 07:57 PM
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I think it is the camshaft position sensor. Does anyone see these leak oil?

Mark
'00 Taurus SE Wagon
'00 Jeep Cherokee
'00 Acura TL
'97 Miata
'07 Suzuki V-Strom DL650
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post #30 of 45 (permalink) Old 05-15-2015, 01:04 AM
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Overall a very useful write-up. But make sure you get the right gaskets, since the part numbers given here are not for every model year. Also, too bad the pics are not located where they should be in the write-up.
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