Vulcan Cam Synchronizer/sensor Replacement - Page 2 - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #11 of 73 (permalink) Old 01-09-2009, 04:18 PM
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I replaced my mom's with an A1 Cardone NEW unit. It's nothing more than the original Motorcraft part with the part numbers ground off. It was PAINFULLY obvious after comparing it to the original 190,000 mile old one.
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post #12 of 73 (permalink) Old 02-11-2009, 11:56 AM
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Hi,

when I did my head gaskets this summer, I removed the sensor (per manual)
but it could have stayed in place (vulcan enging).

Take a few digital photos of the sensor with the plastic dome removed,
you can then remove it and put the new one in place to match the
digital photos you print out to make it easy to line it up.
I lined up my photos with the bolts on the intake manifold.

just like removing a distributor, the vanes will move as you pull up
on the thing and will move back when you insert it.

use good amount of fresh engine oil so it slips right in place.
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post #13 of 73 (permalink) Old 04-19-2009, 10:26 AM
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I went with the Motocraft part, but switched changed mine out yesterday afternoon. I hit the placement on the first try. It actually took me longer to move all the crap in the way that it did to change it. The wiring bundle is conveniently right over the top of this part.

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post #14 of 73 (permalink) Old 05-20-2009, 06:55 AM
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I have3 a quick question. I just replaced the synchro in my 01 Taurus. I did not use the tool. I marked the position of the old and installed the new in the same position. I have a couple codes still and one was for the IAC, I replaced right then.

P1504 - Manf. Cntrl. Veh. Spd / Idle Speed Control / Aux. Inputs. I AM NOT SURE WHAT ALL I SHOULD REPLACE?

P0122 - TPS/ Pedal Position Sensor / Sensor A Circuit Low Input. I HAVE NEW TPS AND WILL REPLACE TODAY.
WILL THAT FIX THIS ISSUE OR IS IT IN THE WIRING?

P0300 - Multiple Cyl. Misfire. COULD I BE OFF 1 TOOTH ON THE CAM SYNCHO? IF I MOVE IT FORWARD ONE TOOTH WILL IT DAMAGE THE VALVES? I BELIEVE MY 3.0 "U" IS A NON INTERFERENCE MOTOR.

I BOUGHT NEW DOUBLE PLAT PLUGS AND WILL INSTALL TODAY. NEW SINGLE PLATS IN THE CAR NOW.

????? ANY AND ALL HELP / ADVICE WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED. I HAVE PUT 185 MILES ON NEW RINGS, HEADS, PLUGS, WIRES, AND STILL THESE ISSUES! UGH!!!!!!!

THANKS FOR ANY KNOWLEDGE,

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post #15 of 73 (permalink) Old 10-13-2009, 05:51 PM
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I have a 2002 Taurus and from the great info I've read here so far it looks like the cam shaft synchronizer is my problem. I was wondering if anyone could tell me if there are any special tools required to replace it. I'm working out of town and staying in a hotel. I have my hand tools with me and thought this should be something I should change before making the long trip home in a few weeks. I'm also thinking of changing my serpentine belt. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks
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post #16 of 73 (permalink) Old 10-13-2009, 05:58 PM
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The toughest part is moving the wiring harness. Other than that, I believe it was 2 six mm bolts and one 10mm. You can actually use a rag to change the belt, if you're short on tools.
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post #17 of 73 (permalink) Old 12-16-2009, 02:59 PM
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Questions:

I just replaced my synchronizer assembly and later realized that I may have installed it a couple degrees off. The car seems to be running fine. What would I notice if I actually installed it incorrectly? Would it maybe not show symptoms until many miles later?

For the people that have done this job, have you noticed that the sensor can simply be aligned with the clamp down bolt (i.e. the bolt that clamps the synch assembly down to the block)? I noticed that this setup was shown in my Chilton's manual and that my old sycnhronizer does indeed have the clamp down bolt in line with the sensor.

Advice after doing the work:

Use caution to properly mark the block and anything else you need to mark before removing the old synchro!!! Be exact as possible. If your new synchro is identical, I think the best place to remember the synchro position is to mark the position of the clamp down bolt on the old synchro. When you install the new synchro, simply align the bolt in the same position as the old synchro.

Thanks for all the above help.
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post #18 of 73 (permalink) Old 12-02-2010, 03:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrBooMY View Post
I replaced my mom's with an A1 Cardone NEW unit. It's nothing more than the original Motorcraft part with the part numbers ground off. It was PAINFULLY obvious after comparing it to the original 190,000 mile old one.
Hi there, my friend is also looking for this one, a1 cardone. How much did you spend for this one?and where did you acquire? thanks for the advice..

Last edited by clarkandrew45; 12-02-2010 at 11:11 PM.
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post #19 of 73 (permalink) Old 12-05-2010, 04:40 AM
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The new recent A1 Cardone units have been turning up faulty. Some don't fit.. and some fail like the dorman syncro's...

Your best bet is to buy a Motorcraft one from the dealership.

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post #20 of 73 (permalink) Old 12-05-2010, 06:37 PM
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two things, NO,NO,NO!!! to the dorman parts only use the FORD part for this replacement.
second thing i replaced mine and the tdc issue is crazy, it seems that ford does not have a tdc mark on the block i tookthe wheelofff , gotit up in the air and had 4 people look for it , no luck.
after getting the syncro replaced i got a cel , so i repositioned it with the tool still cel so i drove it gas mileage was correct acceleration i s ok. so next week off to the dealer to get ripped maybe
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