Cranks but no start - Page 3 - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #21 of 32 (permalink) Old 12-27-2018, 09:40 PM Thread Starter
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I will work on that first then. Even if that was the only issue though I feel like it would fire a bit on starting fluid. But Iíll have to fix it at some point anyways so might as well now.
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post #22 of 32 (permalink) Old 12-29-2018, 03:39 PM
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You say it has been sitting for a while. I had a Pinto (with a rebuilt engine) that sat for a little over one year a long time ago. When it came time to moe it again I discovered I had no compression. I squirted a little oil in each cylinder then cranked it over nd it fired right up. Can you tell if you have any compression when cranking the engine? I have had lawn mowers lose compression over the winter also. After they start the cylinders get oiled enough that it is not a problem any more. The starting fluid will probably evaporate from the frst cylinders by the time you get to the last one so I would just try spraying into the intake with the throttle plate open. You should get a fire if you have compression (even if it isn't at the right time) since you see spark.


Too much starting fluid use will wash down the cylinders and you will lose compression then also.
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post #23 of 32 (permalink) Old 12-29-2018, 10:19 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry this is a bit late. How much oil should I put? Also if I just put some in the front three cylinders would I at least get some sort of a fire from it? If I don't have to go through the hassle of getting the back plugs out I don't wanna do it haha.
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post #24 of 32 (permalink) Old 12-30-2018, 01:03 AM
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You shouldn't need to put oil in all the cylinders. I would guess the oil can I used only put maybe a couple of teaspoons in. You don't need a whole lot. It should fire and hopefully catch and keep running if you have lost compression from sitting. The cylinders dry out and the rings don't get enough of a seal to suck in the air/fuel mixture needed. A compression tester can help to if you have access to one.
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post #25 of 32 (permalink) Old 12-30-2018, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
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I rented a compression tester today, and I'll test the front three tomorrow before and after oil. Hopefully this does something! I'll get back to this after I try.
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post #26 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-01-2019, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
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One of the three front cylinders was losing compression, so I dumped some oil in all of the front three cylinders and they all held good compression then. I proceeded to try and start it up and still got nothing. I'm gonna try to do the same to the rear three today, so wish me luck! Man this is a process I must say.
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post #27 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-01-2019, 04:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99Joel View Post
I will work on that first then. Even if that was the only issue though I feel like it would fire a bit on starting fluid. But Iíll have to fix it at some point anyways so might as well now.

Before you do anything else, you need to get the fuel up to the engine and figure out
why its not getting there. Find the fuel pump relay. pull it out and check for
bad contacts. If you have to, put a bypass wire in the proper relay holes
and see if the pump runs now. If you don't, you need to find the trouble with
the fuel pump or its wiring. Maybe a bad ground or corroded connector
this will only work on the cars that don't have duty cycle PCM control on the
fuel pump.


Clean your battery connections. clean all the ground straps you can find

under the hood in including the motor to firewall ground strap. You might
get lucky.


bob
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Bob Urz 1989 Vulcan wagon (wife crashed) 1990 Vulcan sedan (sold running) 1993 Vulcan sedan (wife crashed) 1993 Vulcan wagon (beat up like Battlestar Galactica, drove to junkyard on a sad day) 1997 Vulcan sedan (down with multiple coolant leaks), 1998 Vulcan sedan (rescued from being junked three time with broken brake lines and bad rack, hydrolocked engine replaced ) down for now
Note: wives and daughters are dangerous to your Taurus health!

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post #28 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-02-2019, 08:52 PM
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Check the fuel pump shut off switch in the trunk left side of the car.
If car was bumped sometime when sitting in place, the fuel pump will not run.

You need fuel pressure in the rails otherwise it will never run.
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post #29 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-03-2019, 10:27 PM Thread Starter
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Okay- I just oiled up the rear 3 cylinders for compression and voila...no start still. Keep in mind that I don't want to waste the money on a new fuel pump if this thing won't run, so I keep trying with the starting fluid. The thing is a rust bucket, and really isn't worth much no matter what, so the less money I dump into it pointlessly the better. Anyways, it has fuel (again starting fluid down the intake), spark, and compression now. If it ran good when parked, what the heck else could be wrong? I'm gonna throw in some known good plugs into it tomorrow from my ranger, maybe the old ones aren't sparking good from sitting? I'm almost out of options here.
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post #30 of 32 (permalink) Old 01-05-2019, 10:46 PM Thread Starter
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Spark plugs tested good and yesterday I took off the valve cover on the front to take a look and it all seems to look great. The timing chain on that side is on and tight and everything moves as it should. So to recap,

I have good compression, spark, air, and timing. Fuel pump isn't working but I'm not replacing it until I know this thing runs. Nothing happens when I spray starting fluid in the intake. Are there any other sensors or things that could prevent this thing from running? This honestly makes no sense to me.
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