05 Shift issue - Page 3 - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #21 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-28-2018, 11:52 AM
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Some parts on these cars are just better to go with the OEM. Coils are one and Idle Control Air valves are another. If you take the coil back and get a new one and it resolves the problem then that is why people shy away from that brand. The only AutoZone part I have used in the last five years was a power steering pump. I installed it and spent four or five hours trying to get it to quite down from whining. I gave up, returned it and installed a Ford pump. Installed and took five minutes to get it quite. On electrical parts it really messes up troubleshooting if you can rely on a new part.



I installed a Dorman blend door actuator in my 2006 due to OEM failure. That summer I had an AC issue that took months to track down. Turned out to be the Dorman actuator was not right and was not shutting off the heat and adding about 15 degrees to my AC outlet temperature. Here is my thread. https://www.taurusclub.com/forum/124...mperature.html


I also had a GMB water pump only last a year until it leaked from shaft. Returned it under warranty for my money back and bought a Motorcraft pump. https://www.taurusclub.com/forum/82-...termarket.html



I was impressed with NGK spark plugs when I installed them. Gaps all correct and the electrode end had a card board cylinder to protect the electrode gap if the plug was banged around during shipping.
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post #22 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-28-2018, 12:50 PM Thread Starter
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Oh, almost forgot. No indication of overheating or any other mechanical issue.

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post #23 of 30 (permalink) Old 11-28-2018, 04:47 PM Thread Starter
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Traded coils out, and the idle improved slightly.

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post #24 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-01-2018, 06:11 PM Thread Starter
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New Borg Warner wires and Motorcraft plugs helped considerably. Plugs were ORIGINAL to the car. Tracing down a vacuum leak, and strongly suspect the IAC valve.

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post #25 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-01-2018, 07:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plain Old Dave View Post
New Borg Warner wires and Motorcraft plugs helped considerably. Plugs were ORIGINAL to the car. Tracing down a vacuum leak, and strongly suspect the IAC valve.

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Why IAC valve, what symptoms that leads you to that? Motorcraft is the only safe way to go with a replacement. Most aftermarkets aren't Tuned correctly to respond properly. Bought aftermarket and returned it due to a sloppy idle control and bought a junkyard one.



Popular location of leak is the distribution box near the master cylinder.
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post #26 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-01-2018, 07:58 PM Thread Starter
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We'll look at that location tomorrow.

Symptoms: inconsistent, surging idle with occasional stalling and no CEL codes. The exact same symptoms my Crown Vic displays when it's time for a warranty swap on the IAC. Fixes it every time.

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post #27 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-01-2018, 08:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plain Old Dave View Post
We'll look at that location tomorrow.

Symptoms: inconsistent, surging idle with occasional stalling and no CEL codes. The exact same symptoms my Crown Vic displays when it's time for a warranty swap on the IAC. Fixes it every time.

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So your miss fire codes have disappeared? Great. My experience with a Advanced Auto IAC was surging idles and a reluctance fro the car to slow down when you released the gas pedal on the highway
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post #28 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-02-2018, 08:25 AM
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Could try cleaning and lubing the IAC and cleaning the TB. Also check or replace the PCV valve and its hose.

05 Taurus SEL Duratec - my daily driver
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post #29 of 30 (permalink) Old 12-02-2018, 08:41 AM Thread Starter
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Never have had results from trying to clean an IAC. More later today.

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post #30 of 30 (permalink) Old 04-02-2019, 01:00 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Automender12345 View Post




Popular location of leak is the distribution box near the master cylinder.
This? Can't find it anywhere. What's it formally called, and a part number would help.

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