Head Gasket Job (advice wanted) - Page 5 - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #41 of 64 (permalink) Old 09-06-2018, 11:28 AM Thread Starter
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I temporarily stopped work. A friend of my wife wants to give us a Mercedes that's been sitting for 3.5 years. It's in Wichita, which is 200 miles away, and, of course, I don't have a car now. I suppose I can hitchhike. I do that by going to a truck stop and asking to use the CB. But getting to a truck stop may be harder than getting to Wichita. The bus system here is terrible.
I'm sure it will need a battery, and I don't know what else I should do.
If I had time, I'd pull all the plugs and squirt oil, but maybe it will just start.
(Just the car. The other pic is accidental) '93 300e
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Last edited by Nehmo54; 09-06-2018 at 11:32 AM.
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post #42 of 64 (permalink) Old 09-06-2018, 11:22 PM
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From the looks of the head, I would be surprised if there's not at least one crack. It's cast iron and small cracks are common and many don't cause a problem but if you find some, a reman head is the best way to go. Even if you reuse this head you need to have it surfaced by a machine shop as they warp with age and the warpage causes head gasket leaks.

From the occlusions in the cooling passages, this system badly needs scalding out with oxalic acid, a neutralization and a rinse, and new coolant. Iron engines do this when they're run with too much water in the coolant mixture.

BTW the bolts I was referring to are the ones that attach the Y pipe flanges to the heads. They can be a real bear to get out, especially the ones nearest the firewall cuz they're hard to get to. Lotsa anti-seize and don't over torque when you put em back together will save heartache in the future.
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post #43 of 64 (permalink) Old 09-07-2018, 07:15 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 46davis View Post
From the looks of the head, I would be surprised if there's not at least one crack. It's cast iron and small cracks are common and many don't cause a problem but if you find some, a reman head is the best way to go. Even if you reuse this head you need to have it surfaced by a machine shop as they warp with age and the warpage causes head gasket leaks.

From the occlusions in the cooling passages, this system badly needs scalding out with oxalic acid, a neutralization and a rinse, and new coolant. Iron engines do this when they're run with too much water in the coolant mixture.

BTW the bolts I was referring to are the ones that attach the Y pipe flanges to the heads. They can be a real bear to get out, especially the ones nearest the firewall cuz they're hard to get to. Lotsa anti-seize and don't over torque when you put em back together will save heartache in the future.
I know the amount of work required to change the head gasket makes it reasonable to get the whole head job done. But, as I explained earlier, I'm lucky to have the $72 the gasket set put me back. I'm even planning to do the job re-using the TTY head bolts. At this point, I'm trying to figure out where I can get the form-a-gasket to use where the gaskets meet on the intake manifold at the corners. It's just 4 dabs, but, as I remember, it's needed.
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post #44 of 64 (permalink) Old 09-07-2018, 05:44 PM
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Yeah, I do things on the cheap, too. I have a great resource in my neighbor who is a Mexican truck mechanic. He knows all the tricks and has the tools, too.
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post #45 of 64 (permalink) Old 09-08-2018, 02:06 AM
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You're better off letting gomer Pyle work on the car.
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post #46 of 64 (permalink) Old 09-08-2018, 03:41 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah, I do things on the cheap, too. I have a great resource in my neighbor who is a Mexican truck mechanic. He knows all the tricks and has the tools, too.
When I was a kid going to Mexico (Nogales mostly, and those were fun times), the metal recycling industry wasn't up to speed, and there were junk cars everywhere. A lot of them were stolen American cars. Sometimes people would sleep in them. Sometimes they would be used as sort-of guardrails or barriers as roads weren't clearly defined. Some of them had good parts still there for the taking.
If you grew up in that environment, which was economically depressed, becoming a mechanic of sorts was a natural.
However, the last time I was down there, things had been cleaned up. I imagine some recycler took advantage of the opportunity.
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post #47 of 64 (permalink) Old 09-08-2018, 12:14 PM
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If you break down in Mexico, ask a 12 y/o boy to go get his uncle. It might not be pretty, but it'll get you home. They're resourceful people.
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post #48 of 64 (permalink) Old 09-08-2018, 07:47 PM Thread Starter
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If you break down in Mexico, ask a 12 y/o boy to go get his uncle. It might not be pretty, but it'll get you home. They're resourceful people.
One time my girlfriend and I were busted in Mexico (possession of a gun that I was going to sell to a friend). We got out in a couple of days but they kept our car. Negotiations to get the car back broke down, and it remained parked right outside the police station on the main street in Nogales. We had a spare key. I paid a friend $60 to get it for us. He simply used the key and drove it back across the border. He said 2 people sitting outside the police station watched him.

The status of the car that a friend said he would give us: The car is still in Wichita 200 miles away. He's concerned about starting it after 3.5 years, and he doesn't want me to come down there for nothing. He doesn't like the idea of me hitchhiking with a battery either. (I hitchhike by using a CB at a truck stop, btw.)

This is getting off the subject. When installing the intake manifold, on this Vulcan engine, is it necessary to use some form-a-gasket in the corners?
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post #49 of 64 (permalink) Old 09-08-2018, 08:10 PM
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This is getting off the subject. When installing the intake manifold, on this Vulcan engine, is it necessary to use some form-a-gasket in the corners?
No. It doesn't need anything but the gasket, which is silicone rubber. You're not supposed to reuse the old gasket, but I have successfully after carefully examining it for any damage whatsoever. New ones are better than 30 bucks. Be sure the surfaces are very clean. I used some DC4 compound to help the gasket seat, but it's not really necessary. Pay special attention to getting the bolts torqued right and in the right order.

The old gasket has to be thrown away if it has any nick or dimple that might pass air. (I was going to say pass gas) You'll never make a successful repair by trying to use a sealer to stop up the leak.
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post #50 of 64 (permalink) Old 09-08-2018, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 46davis View Post
No. It doesn't need anything but the gasket, which is silicone rubber. You're not supposed to reuse the old gasket, but I have successfully after carefully examining it for any damage whatsoever. New ones are better than 30 bucks. Be sure the surfaces are very clean. I used some DC4 compound to help the gasket seat, but it's not really necessary. Pay special attention to getting the bolts torqued right and in the right order.

The old gasket has to be thrown away if it has any nick or dimple that might pass air. (I was going to say pass gas) You'll never make a successful repair by trying to use a sealer to stop up the leak.
I won't re-use the intake gasket. I have the new one. I'm going to have to re-use the TTY bolts, though. I know that's a gamble, so I'm waiting to see if I get some money.
I used what I could to check for warpage, and the heads look flat to me. I can't get a feeler gauge under a straight edge. I'm pleased with that. However, I think I discovered one small crack in the rear head. Who knows? Yeah, I know it should be replaced.
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