High idle - Page 2 - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #11 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-15-2017, 03:57 PM
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I had the same code on my 03 Sedan. Get a Motorcraft PCV valve, and be sure to replace the elbow while you are in there.

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post #12 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-16-2017, 11:41 AM
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Same here Sousa and I chased the vac leak like a dummy. I did get a spark plug and wires change out of the experience so...
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post #13 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 06:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dakotasmith23 View Post
No it is a duralast. Also I didn't find any vacuum leaks. So could it be anything besides that
I've tried every model IAC duralast from AZ. Tv284 tv2009 and a third I can't recall. My bull is a 01 tec, AZ database shows the same IAC part number for both tec and Vulcan. In short, I've returned 4 tv284 and 3 tv2009. Each had my car idling high at startup and would accelerate without giving it gas. I dug up my OEM IAC and cleaned it with CRC electrical cleaner, (ran out of intake cleaner) it the old OEM worked like a charm. No spring is in original tec IAC.

I'd would clean the AZ part well with the spray I used and return saying you never installed it. Go to a different AZ store if one tells you they can only exchange or give store credit.

Btw, oriellys cheap IAC didn't work either. It's motorcraft or nothing on this part.
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post #14 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 06:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dakotasmith23 View Post
I am currently having these problems with my 2001 taurus 3.0 liter dohc duratec.Car jerks when shifting from park to reverse and park to drive. Idles high at around 2000 rpms. On a level surface at 40 mph I'll let off the gas and and the stays at 40 until I hit the brakes. When I accelerate from a stop to 5mph and let off the gas the car keeps accelerating to 20 mph and the rpms are at 2000. I just put a new IAC in today and recently fixed my front passenger cv axle. Can anyone help please and thanks in advance
Must use motorcraft. No getting around it
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post #15 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 08:29 AM
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r
Quote:
Originally Posted by dannyyakk View Post
I've tried every model IAC duralast from AZ. Tv284 tv2009 and a third I can't recall. My bull is a 01 tec, AZ database shows the same IAC part number for both tec and Vulcan. In short, I've returned 4 tv284 and 3 tv2009. Each had my car idling high at startup and would accelerate without giving it gas. I dug up my OEM IAC and cleaned it with CRC electrical cleaner, (ran out of intake cleaner) it the old OEM worked like a charm. No spring is in original tec IAC.

I'd would clean the AZ part well with the spray I used and return saying you never installed it. Go to a different AZ store if one tells you they can only exchange or give store credit.

Btw, oriellys cheap IAC didn't work either. It's motorcraft or nothing on this part.
G-4 DOH IAC looks like the pic. The shaft seal needs cleaning, bit of oil and exercise the piston to lube the shaft seal. Wipe excess oil off with a Q-tip. If it is really dirty clean with household ammonia, solenoid up and Q-tip. no need to rises. Dry with a hair dryer. Then oil and wipe the shaft in the seal. I am on my 2, & 3 DOHC and #2 Lin Cont. I would much prefer JY OE and clean it as opposed to any new one. I have one of each from the JY and rotate them out about every 2 years at fall maintenance. I am paranoid and prefer perfect idle.

The Lin looks like the Vulcan but larger, thus two holes and a spring. In the Vulcan/Lin case I lube the bearing at the opposite end from the solenoid also.

-chart-
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post #16 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by sousa632 View Post
I had the same code on my 03 Sedan. Get a Motorcraft PCV valve, and be sure to replace the elbow while you are in there.
I agree.

My EFI experience goes back to 80's Fieros and in 30 or so years, I've never had an IAC go completely bad. Even on GM products, they're pretty simple. Cleaning the pintle and seat with brake cleaner and a q-tip usually gets the gunk off and restores functionality. CRC electrical cleaner and a little liquid gun lube usually fixes the shaft.

2001 SES Wagon. 210k and strong running.

Last edited by Brian in Tucson; 02-20-2017 at 09:17 AM.
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post #17 of 19 (permalink) Old 02-20-2017, 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian in Tucson View Post
I agree.

My EFI experience goes back to 80's Fieros and in 30 or so years, I've never had an IAC go completely bad. Even on GM products, they're pretty simple. Cleaning the pintle and seat with brake cleaner and a q-tip usually gets the gunk off and restores functionality. CRC electrical cleaner and a little liquid gun lube usually fixes the shaft.
And you have a good chance of having the right one.

-chart-
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post #18 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-29-2017, 08:42 PM
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Cruise Control

As mentioned by another member, check the cruise control cable. I heard of the cables sticking in some Tauruses, forcing acceleration even while cruise control is disabled. Such would explain the high idle, as the cruise control cable connects to the throttle body as the accelerator cable does, opening the throttle plate and inducting too much air, to which the PCM responds to by increasing fuel (your high idle). Perhaps disconnect the cable from the throttle body and see if your problem persists.
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post #19 of 19 (permalink) Old 03-30-2017, 04:00 PM
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^ May check both cables for fraying/hanging.
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