Thanks for the quick responses.
Haven't put many miles on the car since we got it, but I know the original owner and she kept meticulous maintenance on it. So, the short answer is I don't know how many miles are on the fluid, but it is doesn't smell bad or anything like that. Car has 68K on it. It had like 52K on it when I bought it, and I know she had a bunch of scheduled stuff done right before I got it. I was going to have it changed soon just so that I would know for sure, but it was one of those things I kept putting off because I figured it had been done not too long ago. Even if it had never been changed, it is still a 68K mile transmission. I'm sure there are lots worse out there. LOL Also I mentioned the leaking problem it had a while back. When that would trigger, it would drop a fourth of a quart on the ground. I monitored it religiously so that it wouldn't go low (had it to three mechanics who said they could never find the source of the leak), but over the course of that issue I'm sure I replaced three or four quarts of mercV in it as well. I suspect it was the VSS
from the area the leak was coming from, and the mechanics just didn't want to change it (centerline of car, behind the transmission pan).
Tranny fluid is a bit high right now. Not sure what it was when the failure happened as it was dark and I couldn't get a good reading, but I really doubt it was low. I carry a funnel and quart of mercV in the car just in case that previous problem starts up again, so I put that in after it quit on me. Thinking maybe it had dropped a bunch out while I was running errands and I hadn't noticed. It made no difference, and it was high the next day after checking it. After opening the test port to check for flow though, it's almost down to the hatch marks. And as I mentioned before, when cold it is quite a bit higher than while running.
Not sure which is the TRS
connector. I'll have to do some googling on that one. I did play with the gear shift selector today though, and it seems to be ok. Have some new codes because of that, but I'll just ignore them since they weren't there before. I should add this is a console shift car, not a column shift. Don't know if it makes any difference.
Codes showing now are:
Under enhanced powertrain CAN:
systems readiness test not complete
demand out of self test range (I had the system on max A/C
at the time which may have caused this)
Under instrument cluster CAN:
U0020 low speed CAN communication bus performance
U1901 can 2 communication bus fault - receive error
Under electronic automatic temperature control mcan:
U0073 control module communication bus off
B1249 blend door failure or start button illumination
Under general electronics module MCAN:
B1318 battery voltage low or right front door ajar switch
I should add that there is no check engine light on even now (nor was there one), the A/C
works fine (although I did have it serviced recently), and the passenger door is not open. LOL Also my regular scan tool didn't find any codes at all, although I'm sure it's just searching for powertrain ones.
As for line pressure, when I opened the test port like that one youtube video suggested, a fair amount of fluid came out. Not squirting two feet in the air, but a fair amount just the same. I ordered an actual gauge today so that I can get a good number, but the sensor on my software pretty much stays at 15. It will spike up into the 40s sometimes when I change gears, but will drop back to 15. Not sure if that is an actual pressure number though, so that's why I ordered the gauge. Speaking of changing gears, I notice an almost imperceptible change in idle when I go into or out of a powered gear. Car sometimes will move ever so slightly too. Like it's really trying to go into gear, but just can't quite do it.
I also checked the shift solenoids this morning. This may be normal procedure, but shift solenoid 1 never changed state. Always off. Solenoid 2 was always on. Solenoid 3 was always off unless I put the car in park. then it went on.
I am afraid it might be the torque convertor. Hope not. Although wouldn't the turbine sensor be off if that was the case? The reading off its sensor is close to the engine RPM
, and mirrors it if I blip the throttle.
As for the vent being plugged, I had thought of that back when it was leaking, but the area it leaked at was not in the same area as the vent. Also, the dipstick was never popped up like you would expect if it was leaking like that. What it was doing was every once in a while, at the first takeoff of the day, when everything was cold (was worse in the winter), the very first shift would be a little jerky. Almost seemed to jump in and out of gear at times. This was months ago though, and it has not done it lately. The leaking would only occur if I took a very short trip and did not let the transmission fully warm up. Like if I just backed the car out of the garage, or went to the shopping center around the corner. It would then spew out a fair amount of transmission fluid once I shut off the car. Never while running as far as I know. I also really watched the fluid level for the very reason you mentioned. I didn't want to risk burning it up from a low fluid condition. I suppose all of this could be a contributing factor, but I am also describing it in detail and probably making it sound worse than it was. Car was never below the bottom of the hash marks on the dipstick. Was slightly above it a couple of times from me overfilling a bit, but not when this failure happened.
I have disconnected the battery, but I'm not sure if I left it long enough. Codes were still in the computer, and I didn't have to reset the radio stations. Left it disconnected for like a half hour though, so I don't know.
As for FORScan, I honestly had never heard of it until now. I doubt my scanner would be compatible since AutoEnginuity has their security stuff built into the reader. I ordered a OBDlink SX from Amazon. Will that read everything, or should I get one of the ELM 327 ones too?
Thanks for your help.