2001 w/ Vulcan 3.0 engine swap info - Page 3 - Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum
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post #21 of 73 (permalink) Old 05-28-2014, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Automender12345 View Post
If it were me. I would consider changing the timing cover gasket and waterpump. Seeing the picture with all the accessories off, the job would be pretty easy.
And if mine, I would pull the pan, check the bearings, and de sludge the pan and pump strainer.

But that is just ME!

-chart-
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post #22 of 73 (permalink) Old 05-28-2014, 02:03 PM
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Interested in this - good luck Steve.

2004 Ford Taurus SES w\Vulcan Flex
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post #23 of 73 (permalink) Old 05-28-2014, 03:20 PM
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Originally Posted by SES Steve View Post
Madscientist, (and others) What's your take on pulling the engine only? I've read multiple discussions on taking everything out the bottom vs. the top. I've watched u-tube video's etc. I saw one guy that liked taking it out the top and did so with a DOHC motor. That looked pretty tight to me, and he had to take apart about half the motor.
Having done both, I will never pull an engine out of a Taurus out the top again. Tight doesn't begin to describe it, and you do have to remove pretty much everything from the engine before you can get it out. Out the bottom is just so much quicker and easier.

That said, you need to have a way to lift the car high enough to clear the engine as well as a way to roll the subframe out from underneath the car. I'm lucky enough to have a lift and a couple of tranny jacks which makes life very easy. I have done it with a 3 ton cherry picker lifting the car, three floor jacks holding up the subframe and a few buddies to help me roll it out though.

I'm attaching the factory removal manual for reference.
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-Jonathan

Last edited by madscientist; 05-28-2014 at 03:25 PM.
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post #24 of 73 (permalink) Old 05-28-2014, 08:29 PM Thread Starter
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Chart - I'm going to do that. I ordered all the seals / gaskets except the head gaskets.
Automender12345 - I will be pulling the timing cover off and checking the timing gears / chain as well. Putting a new motorcraft water pump on. I went with the better permatex? I think seals.

All the seals, 2 motorcraft oil filters and the motorcraft waterpump ran me $130.00ish shipped from Rock auto. The dealership charged me 140.00 for the water pump alone when we had it replaced at about 250,000. I figure it's money well spent since I'm going to drive the hell out of this thing.

MadScientist - That's for the input on taking out the engine and the manual. I started tear down on it tonight. Taking a lot of pix and marking each hose / plug etc with making tape and a number (putting same number on the engine where I took it off so I can refer to it when putting it all back together). I will say I watched a Ford Tech. video on how to take off the timing belt with two wrenches. It worked slick as hell. I never would have figured that out on my own. Time to get back to work. I'm still leaning toward taking it out the top. We'll see........ Thanks again all for your input.
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post #25 of 73 (permalink) Old 05-28-2014, 10:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madscientist View Post
Having done both, I will never pull an engine out of a Taurus out the top again. Tight doesn't begin to describe it, and you do have to remove pretty much everything from the engine before you can get it out. Out the bottom is just so much quicker and easier.

That said, you need to have a way to lift the car high enough to clear the engine as well as a way to roll the subframe out from underneath the car. I'm lucky enough to have a lift and a couple of tranny jacks which makes life very easy. I have done it with a 3 ton cherry picker lifting the car, three floor jacks holding up the subframe and a few buddies to help me roll it out though.

I'm attaching the factory removal manual for reference.
I am glad you posted that. I was wondering about that if I ever had to replace the torque convertor for stripped splines on either car.

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post #26 of 73 (permalink) Old 05-29-2014, 08:55 PM Thread Starter
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Well after reaching down the back of the engine and trying to unplug some dirty ass electrical connections ( that took forever), and the fact I had the manual on how to do it, (thanks Madscientist) I decided to stop being a ***** and just drop the sub frame with the motor and tranny. I'm anal anyway. I have a vision of getting the engine bay all cleaned up nice when all that's out and having the motor / tranny all cleaned up and as many things hooked up as I can before I put it all back in (and being confident that it's all hooked up correctly). So far if I had to do it over I would have bought the $20ish dollar A/C line / Fuel line disconnect tool and disconnected it outside prior to bringing it in my shop. It seems like trying to keep that hooked up is really costing me some time. Looks like to me I've got to take off the big bracket for the power steering pump / alternator to get to the A/C to jack with that. I'm cheap, but not that cheap. I've taken out two long bolts, a pulley, trying to get to what I think is the third bolt to get the damn thing off. If I didn't have to jack with all that I could leave it all on, just disconnect the A/C hoses and drop it out the bottom. So I have to recharge it latter, big whoop! Should of had it dropped by now, but not yet.

Next question I have is this. The manual says you have to disconnect a bunch of stuff on each side around the wheel area. Why? The sway bar / stabilizer bar??, the tie rod end etc. etc. If your dropping the sub frame and keeping it up off the ground a bit why disconnect all that??
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post #27 of 73 (permalink) Old 05-30-2014, 12:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SES Steve View Post

Next question I have is this. The manual says you have to disconnect a bunch of stuff on each side around the wheel area. Why? The sway bar / stabilizer bar??, the tie rod end etc. etc. If your dropping the sub frame and keeping it up off the ground a bit why disconnect all that??
The reason they recommend popping the ball joints and the tie rods is to remove the spindles and keep them from being left on the sub-frame only supported by the ball joint. With no support they'll likely pop the C/V axle out of the tranny and possibly damage it or the ball joint. They're also going to obviously hang down a decent amount on the control arms which can affect clearance. The sway bar links have to be unhooked because they're attached to the struts.

If you're careful with the spindles you can get by just detaching the struts from the spindles, unhooking the sway bar links from the struts and removing the brake calipers. If you have enough lift on the car to clear the struts you can just unbolt them from the tower instead, remove them with the assembly and not have to worry about the sway bar links. 3 little nuts are a lot easier to remove than those pinch bolts, but you'll need some serious height to clear the struts.

If you don't want to remove the spindles, whether you detach the struts from the spindles or the car, my little trick is to use a ratchet strap across the back of the transmission with the hooks around each C/V axle. This keeps the C/V axles seated in the transmission which in turn holds the spindles in place by the C/V axles.

-Jonathan

Last edited by madscientist; 05-30-2014 at 01:19 AM.
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post #28 of 73 (permalink) Old 05-30-2014, 05:46 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all that Jonathan! I'm taking the three bolts off the strut towers. I'm a country boy - I have a tractor / loader and a chain (as well as a shotgun a rifle and a pickup truck LOL), I'll figure out where to hook it to raise the car and get the height. Here we go....
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post #29 of 73 (permalink) Old 06-01-2014, 09:16 PM Thread Starter
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Fuel line disconnect problems

Fuel Line. Bought a disconnect set. I'm unable to get the fuel line disconnected at the motor. I didn't have these white disconnect tools when I started tearing the motor down. After I got them I watched a u-tube video that talks about de-pressurizing the system and how to do it (pulling the right electrical plug passenger side foot area outside wall then starting the car and letting it run till it dies). I did not do this. I assume this line still has pressure on it and that's why I can't get it to disconnect?? suggestions??
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post #30 of 73 (permalink) Old 06-01-2014, 09:30 PM
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Bleed it from the Schroeder valve on the end of the other fuel rail. You can just take off the cap and use a small screwdriver to depress it and bleed off the excess pressure.

-Jonathan
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