As stated in my other thread.. I have to rebuild my Ford Taurus 03 OHV 3.0 engine. I've been searching for days now, trying to come across anything that involves the piston ring gap specs and ring clock pattern. If anybody has this info or knows where to get it. I believe that this info would be a great thing for this site for future builders just like me. Thanks guys!
Ring gap is critical. Had friend call me and tell me his ring gap was excessive on new rings by the book. OK how much? Yep likely engine had been oversized at the factory. He borrowed a inside mike, and it was +.020". Chrysler 318. Had he not followed the rules, he would have been a heap of hurt.
Know another case, dealer put rings and bearings in a Ford 260. Shaft was .002 under from the factory, old bearings had the stamp. Shaft failed in short order. Pays to check, never underestimate what they can do at the factory. Dodge shop guy told me they had new car 440, had +.040 cylinders with standard pistons. Ran really bad. That one clearly obvious.
Best of luck.
I can upload a PDF this evening of the factory engine overhaul manual if no one can find the information you need before then.
The chart on Autozone.com shows end gap of 0.010 to 0.020" (large range) and 0.0012 to 0.0031" side clearance on upper and 2nd piston rings. (This is a large range to.)
They'll do what they have to, just to get a passable product out the door. It's why I was advised by a friend who works at the Lima plant to never just buy parts and rebuild, always measure and then get the right parts and rebuild. Sadly that mode of thinking is an industry standard.
Here you go!
Also, I've been searching for piston bolt cap torque specs, can't find a thing.. Can't find ring pattern either. Can I use the, 45 degrees between ring gaps? Can't find the ring patter either.. i.e.
top = ring with dot facing up.
Middle = black ring with silver side?
Bottom = oil (wavy silver ring) then two smaller black with silver side, rings on the outside of the oil wavy ring??
Does that sound right?
I've got my piston rings today in the mail!! Getting closer to beginning this rebuild! The paper that came with says... "Check end gap. .004" per 1" of bore diameter is the minimum."
So my bore size is.. 3.504"
1" = .004"
2" = .008"
3" = .0012"
3.504" = .00125 But I can get away with .0013" Correct?
Is this correct??? I dont know if the maths right.
One last thing.. I'm going to copy and paste what the piston ring paper says.. I don't really understand #3 direction under "Three-Piece Oil Ring Installation."
Compression Ring Installation
1) Most compression rings are directional, meaning they have a top and bottom .
2) Most top rings and second rings are different and cannot be interchanged.
3) Most compression rings have a pip mark, a dot or the name: "TOP" on one side designating that side faces up.
4) New cylinder bores must be conditioned properly used bores deglazed. In al cases the final cleaning should be scrubbing with hot soapy water and a brush. Rinse with clean water, dry and wipe with oil and a lint free rag until the rag is clean after the final wiping.
5) Check ring gap. .004" per 1" of bore diameter is the minimum.
6) Compression rings should not be "spiraled" into the groove but carefully installed with a ring installation tool.
Three-Piece Oil Ring Installation:
1) Three-piece oil rings are not directional and can be installed either direction.
2) The ends of the expander must butt together in a solid part of the ring groove and not overlap.
3) Oil rail gaps should be about 1" either side of expander gap and the rails can be spiraled on.
4) If the completed assembly rotates freely in the ring groove it is correct. If not, start over!
Is it implying that wavy ring gap must be "1 away from the two outter ring gap??
Compression ring #2 (black ring with silver side) does not have a mark anywhere to be found.. Does this mean that it does not matter which way it faces??
Compression ring #1 (all black ring with dot marking) has a white marking on the side of it, right next the ring gap, as well. Never heard anything about this type of marking?..
Edit: I had some one give me the advice of replacing all of the piston heads as well.. Is this honestly necessary or can I can by with out it? I know it depends on wear and all of that but just wanted to get another opinion..
Thank you guys for all of this info!!!!! Truly is awesome!!! I will be making a video and lots of pics with this project for all of you as well!!
The rod cap torque spec is listed as 35 Nm in the file madscientist posted.
Yes, I think the 1" means keeps the gaps at least 1" apart. The rails are what go on top and bottom of the wavy expander. This picture should illustrate:
You guys rock!!!!!! That basically just answered all of my questions! Thank you so much madscientist!!
I will admit though. I'm a newb at this engine stuff but I understand the rebuild stuff for the most part. I would love to purchase some new piston heads for this engine, some decent ones atleast. I have no idea what to get though.. any comments/suggestions??
Also, just want to be sure. Is this ring pattern universal? Top ring = compression middle = compression. bottom = oil set up ring? Or can this pattern be switched at all?? I'm not going to do it, just really don't want to mix it up on accident.
I couldn't thank you guys enough!!! I wish I could return the favor.. :/
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